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OK, finally got everything back together. Took about 45 minutes to get the oil in at the right level and to reassmble the whole thing. It was easy sneezy japanezy. I can definitley feel a very big difference with the bike just by sitting on it and bouncing up and down a little.

I do think that something isn't right however. It seems as though there is a "catch" or a "bump" (I can't find the right word) when pushing down on the springs. It seems that the forks will compress maybe a couple of inches and then something "pops" (still can't find the right word) and then the rest of the fork travel is smooth and easy. It's not that the first couple of inches are binding or anything, there just seems to be this one spot where the fork "catches". The compression of the fork seems to be a little "noisier" as well

I put it all back together as suggested by turing the tubes and not the cap. I made a 4 mm spacer and I used a 50/50 combo of 5 wt and 7 wt oil.

Any thoughts?

Once again, thanks for all the help on this job.

Mark

When you turned the tubes... you didn't turn the bottoms with it did you?

Don't think so. I may take the fork caps off and screw the tubes onto the caps again. Anything else you can think of Vince?

I don't think it is anything bad but it doesn't feel quite right.

Mark

Not really... that is the symptoms of turning the caps (Spring Bind). Just hold the bottoms with your feet when you turn the tubes onto the cap.

Does it make this noise or have this feeling every single time?

Yep, every time I apply the front brakes it has this symptom. I haven't started it and ridden it, this is just applying the brakes in the garage and pushing forward on the bike. It really isn't a noise, it is like a bump or thump (barely noticable) when pushing down on the springs. My 8 year old boy even has noticed it when sitting on the bike with me.

Mark

Hmm. Try the loosen and retighten thing to see if that helps.

Any chance to do it without using the brakes, like pull up against a wall? This would be just to make sure it is not a brake related issue.

Did you tighten the caliper back up? Mine did that after I put the caliper back on and forgot to tighten the allens..... Or...maybe your pads aren't seated correctly.

Also, spray your rotor and pads down with a Brake Cleaner in case you got any fork oil on them.... it will cause them to slip slightly...

Your front rotor floats.

Compress the front forks with the brake off and see if you still hear it. Butt the wheel up agains the wall or something.

The click/pop whatever may be the rotor moving.

Oh...Jason already said that.....


Oh...the rotor is supposed to do that.

Yep it appears to be the brake pads. Didn't notice it before. I didn't know these were floating type of brake pads. When against a wall this problem does not happen. When the brakes are applied, it is like the fork compresses just a bit and then you can see the wheel come "unstuck" just a bit and this is when you feel the "clunk". what's funny is that it happens everytime. I would think that after the pads are towards the front, this "clunk" wouldn't occur.

Next problem. When putting on the axel clamp nuts (following the procedure in the manual) one of the axel nut studs sheared off. Is this just a reverse threaded stud thata I can back out with a vise grip or will it take more than that?

Positive note. I love the front springs. What a difference. I can go up my driveway ramp and not even ffel the bump. this is going to be good when I finally get out to ride.

Mark

I reckoned I was smart.

I have read others say it is just a stud. canyncarvr will be here in a minute with more information. Get 'em Snapper!

That's good to hear on the springs.

I always hated those puny little studs... they shoulda put something more substantial so us hammer clawed mechanics wouldn't shear them of with .0001 too much torque.
I really don't know how those are in there but I feel for ya.....

One of mine has been broke for probably a couple years.

saw this info on a post one time and wrote the info in my service manual (I've never confirmed the info at a dealer though)

the kawasaki part no. for the stud is 172G0622

make sure you use a torque wrench

I haven't looked myself...but have heard other riders say that you can likely find such a metric stud at an ACE hardware or NAPA auto parts store.

Yes, they are supposedly threaded in. I've never taken one out..so can't say I've seen it myself. ...just because everyone else says so doesn't mean a whole lot to me.

LHT? ..Don't think so. You wouldn't want them to unscrew as you tightened the nut.

Use a thread locking agent.

Note (manual says this I believe)....cap should be installed such that there is NO gap at the top..gap at the bottom.

So...there isn't a cross-tightening process going on. It's tops first, then the bottoms.

Use a pair of vice grips if you have room. If you have threads left...jam a couple nuts on 'em and back it out.

...or, drill and EZ-out if that's all you've got left. While heat works great for unsticking things...probably an iffy idea on your forks. If all you had was the lower/outer tube (stuff apart) it would be ok...but not assembled. IMO anyway.

RonAyers has 'em for $.69. Listed as a 6x22 stud.

Wish I'd remembered to order a couple last time I got something from them. Should have a spare or two in the tub-o-parts...along with all the other spare parts I can't never find!

...but I DID find my spare bottom shock sleeve today though! Will wonders never cease?

BTW..it's the rotor thats the floater (sometimes I kill myself)..not the pads. Seeing as the pads are mounted in spring clips you can probably see them move some..but that doesn't make them 'floating'.

Thanks for the info.

How is it that the rotor floats? I can see the pads and the calipers but not the rotor. I would think with a floating rotor that you would have some funny pulsating brakes.

Ya learn something new everyday.

I followed the proceedure in the manual and the darn stud still broke. Here I was thinking I might be riding next weekend.

Mark

Look outward of the mounting bolts / screws. Those ring things are the floating part.

Floating rotor:
Look closely. It is two pieces held together with flared washer type assemblies. The two pieces can move independantly from each other. Not much, but enough.

Broke stud:
If your bike isn't new then the past owner may have stressed it prior to your wrenching. Also, it's not a bad idea to have your torque wrench checked for calibration once in a while. Maybe it's off.

Just for the record for the next guy - they are just screwed into the fork. I was lucky in that I had enough of the stud left so I could get a vise grip on them. Just backed them out a little at a time and I'm all set for the new ones.

Wonder how long it will take to get some new studs in. My other ones don't look too good either.

On the floating rotor part, do your bikes do the same thing. The forks compress so far and then you feel as though the pads or soemthing in the brake lets loose just a little bit causing a "slight clunk" Almost like a bad ball joint feel on a car.

Mark

I just changed my springs last week, and they don't do that. I went with the .38 Kg/mm ones. Stupid question, but are you sure it's not something binding in the cable guides? Just wondering if it could be something easy like a cable tie or wear-sleeve binding somewhere.

Good Luck,