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Decided it was time to experience the RB mods, I can't wait!!!
Questions
My 200 is an 2005 model and I have about 3500 miles on it.
The cylinder looks good, BUT one area doesn't fell smooth, it looks like 2 scratches I'll try to take some pics.
I guess I'll have to take the cylinder off and inspect everything

Here is a pic of the piston, there is a bit of carbon deposit but I don't think it's too bad, I manage to remove most of it.



I noticed the piston can rotate a bit, maybe less than 1 degre; is this normal?
This is the 1st time I pulled the head off, so don't really know what to expect.
Since the head is off, should I replace the piston and / or ring?
Do you have to replace the head gasket everytime you remove the head?
Anything else I should check while it's all torn down?

Thank you all

wilf

Hey sheckaet, I have a brand new head gasket if you want to buy it.

I'd be interested in that if Wilf don't need it....

Does this look normal?









How about this scratch mark and wear pattern between the ports?

Indawoods wrote:I'd be interested in that if Wilf don't need it....

I will order a complete top end kit from rocky mountain, I think it's like 30 bucks, so Inda you can have 2001kdx.

Scheckaet - smart move pulling the cylinder and checking things out, IMO. Do you have a manual that provides tolerances for you to check? I'm no pro, but I'd make the recommended tolerance checks (PM me if you don't have them and I'll look 'em up for you). Replace what's needed.

Cylinder condition from the pictures - maybe someone else (perhaps someone with more experience) could chime in on the pics, but that looks like there's a "place" of some sort on the next to the last picture just to the left of the larger port. It looks textured-looking like it has some depth. Last picture shows a darker scratch near the bottom - how deep is it? Consider posting the cylinder pictures in the Q&A section where they'll get more visibility and feedback.

'Just a general comment: it's a great idea to look things over when you get the chance like your doing now, but consider a thorough cleaning of the outside of your engine and anywhere else close by on your bike before you pull things apart. I bring this up only because that looks like dirt on the 3rd to the last picture (maybe it's just discoloration which would mean I'm picking on you for no reason). The smooth, shiny internal surfaces of engines seem to have strange yet very strong magnetic properties for anything close by that could foul things up!!

You're gonna love what Mr. Black does for your motor!

Yeah Jeb I have the manual and will check things out tonight.
I wasn't gonna remove the cylinder but my curiosity took over and that scratch worried me, so wanted to check everything out since it's all torn down. As for the thorough cleaning I second that, I thought I cleaned everything pretty good but there's always some dust coming out of nowhere
The scratch is not very deep, you can see it and feel it, maybe 1/5 of a millimeter?
Thanks for the feed back.

You should absolutely measure the cylinder (or have it measured) for out of round and total dimensional variance. Then measure the piston diameter near the bottom of the skirt (up .25") and 90 degrees to the wrist pin. The largest cylinder diameter minus the piston diameter is the clearance. It should not exceed kawasaki specs for max clearance. If it's even close, replace the piston, pin, rings and gaskets.

I cannot tell from the picture if the abnormality between the ports is an area where the nickasil is worn through or not. If so, the cylinder will soon be in need of a replate. The scratches can be ignored, I've seen much worse. Would not hurt to find a local expert opinion, if it exists.

What else should you do? Absolutely disassemble and clean the KIPS. It's a bear of a job and you need to pay close attention. The manual helps greatly as it describes the factory markings and correct position for assembly. I used 360 grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean the carbon off of the parts and solvent to clean the gunk. It makes a significant difference in performance.

Enjoy...

well, couldn't hold off any longer. I've had Ron's goodies installed since last week and I HAD to ride! Re-installed everything (I re-used ring after a light scotch brite of the cylinder) and off for a ride (after many , that was my 1st top end re-assembly)
1st thoughts on the goodies were, well, disapointing. I had a bit of a bog down low (nothing major, I expected some fine tuning), played with the air screw and manage to make it a bit better. (whoever thought about the knurled air screw must be a GENIUS )
I thought maybe I had some bad gas or sumthin so kept on riding.
1/2 way through the ride it started to sputer really bad when I needed higher RPM. Sounded like a rich condition
It was also very humid so I though that adjusting the needle would help.

Here is the good part, you're gonna like that one.

Back to the truck, took off the carb, raised the needle, then 1 of my buddies mention that i should check the carb bowl to see if there was any water or dirt in it while it was off.
Why not, heck can't hurt it'll only take 5 more minutes.
Take off the bowl and low and behold, you'll never guess what was in there...
not water...
not dirt...
not gunk...
not gremlins...
but this: the main jet was just sitting there!!!
Hee what??? Must have come off on the second part of the ride, I never would have guess the bike would even run without the main in place

After a good laugh (don't know if they were laughing with me or at me ) I fired it up and wow ! what a world of a difference!
I can't really compare with stock head and carb cuz I never rode that place before (much more open area and very WET), but it seems to pull better from down low (like the ad says!) and I feel like I have more top end (like the ad claims again! )
The power delivery was smooth and controlable, I'm sure the CEK needle account for that (will have to try the DEK for fun)

Well, so far, so good, after a rocky start, I believe I am going to have some real fun with the little green beast
Ron's work is absolutely outstanding , got the goodies 4 days after he received the carb and head ; opening the box I almost had to put sunglasses on, it was soooo shinny and beautiful, almost cried man!
I know others have said it before but Ron is the man

Sorry about the lenghty post, I can't help it I had to share this great experience!

A really happy camper: wilf

that's the grin on my face

Big posts are great, man the bike ran with the main jet in the bowl???!!! Wow, that's wild, wild shtuff.

wilf, please tell me, which of thses should I do first, I'm not sure what to save my cash for, rb head & carb, or USD front end?

RB or USD
price wise: RB probably would cost less than the USD
time wise: RB is really simple take off, send, re-install, enjoy
The USD is a little more complex (still really easy, since even a caveman like me can do it )
SAFETY WISE: USD FIRST !
I can tell that I really need to work on my suspension now, I am faster and my setting are out of whack (I knew it wasn't perfect before, but I could get away with it, but now it's REALLY obvious)
So, my advice: save the money for the USD and be patient to find a good set for a good deal. (imagine you get the RB goodies, you crash and can't ride for 6 months cuz your stock suspension SUCKED...I think in the best of the worst scenario you would be like this:

(whoever thought about the knurled air screw must be a GENIUS )

The RB Mixture Screw came about form a suggestion from our very own Mr. Wibbens. He e-mailed me a few years ago asking if a knob could be to the mixture screw, so I sat down and designed the new thumb/finger mixture screw.

Ron

scheckaet wrote: (whoever thought about the knurled air screw must be a GENIUS )

Maybe not quite a genius, but he sure is a handsome devil

Handsome? Gee...I haven't even posted to this thread and ya'll are talkin' about me anyway!!

Wait...I AM a genious...so I guess that was just an oversight on Mr. Wibbens part....

duh...what?

I would MUCH prefer a main jet in the bowl than one that was cracked at the threads 'cuz it was put in too tight..broke..and was ignored (you CAN feel it happen!).

Regarding the cylinder part....scratches of that sort are not something to lose sleep over. But...reusing old rings is not the best idea...especially without checking ring/land issues..and ring gaps.

That carbon below your rings (blow by) is telling you something. Either the rings never seated well in the first place...or the rings are worn out.

NEXT time (#2) you will be a pro..the KIPS will be spotless, the rings fresh, the cylinder scotched (as in -brited) and it will be yet again reason for smilies on your facies.

That bowl comes off easy with Ron's allen screws and the ball end allen, 'eh?

Uh...you got those...right?


Re: rotation

Not a problem. That's not a force axis...so it's OK.

Well...this isn't one'a those rotary KDXs ....is it?

Glad to hear you like it!

Re: next-to-last-pic-what-Jeb-said.

Yeah. You don't happen to have a similar looking piece lookin' to be a part of the piston right about there, do 'ya?

oops....

Just ride it 'til next time! THEN you can do it 'right'!

2001kdx wrote:Big posts are great, man the bike ran with the main jet in the bowl???!!! Wow, that's wild, wild shtuff.

wilf, please tell me, which of thses should I do first, I'm not sure what to save my cash for, rb head & carb, or USD front end?

USD mod first, if you ride alot of trails there is no subsitute for being able to ride faster because of better suspension.