kx list

Post by **scheckaet** » 08:27 pm Jan 15 2007

Found forks, trees, Pro-Taper bars, and clamps from a 2001 Kawasaki KX125, (fork seals may be shot) for 130 $, does this sound too good to be true? Would this be good enough for the KX conversion?
If so, I'll just need wheel and axel right?
Thx

IdahoCharley · Post by **IdahoCharley** » 08:36 pm Jan 15 2007

Sounds like you stole them to me.!!!LOL Yeh - I would consider that a good deal provided the fork bushings are ok - even if they weren't and everything else looked good I would take the lot for 130.

Post by **scheckaet** » 08:50 pm Jan 15 2007

fork bushings

?
is that expensive/hard to replace?
oh well, I'll go ahead anyway.
The way I see it is: buy, check, and fix (that'll give me an excuse to tear everything down and learn in the process)

krazyinski · Post by **krazyinski** » 08:34 am Jan 16 2007

rebuilding the forks is a must you want to make sure the oil is clean and the shim stacks are clean and clear. I have a copy of the DVD for servicing KYB forks email me @ krazyinski@hotmail.com with your adress I will mail you a copy.

Post by **scheckaet** » 12:48 pm Jan 16 2007

got'em for about 380 with shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 746&rd=1,1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 627&rd=1,1

Seems like a fair price

m0rie · Post by **m0rie** » 12:56 pm Jan 16 2007

You stole those forks. Good deal.

Post by **scheckaet** » 12:58 pm Jan 16 2007

Post by **scheckaet** » 01:10 pm Jan 16 2007

The funny thing is I was gonna wait a while before doing this mod, and last night just for kicks decided to check out what was the going price and found this deal I COULD NOT pass up.
One tip you guys may already know: check the ebay store when you do a search, for some reason that deal did not show up on the general search.
I found some other forks for < 200$ if somebody is interested
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-KAW ... 8936QQrdZ1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI ... 9529QQrdZ1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-FO ... 9097QQrdZ1

Post by **scheckaet** » 02:07 am Jan 20 2007

Received fork and wheel today! Could not have come at a better time since we're having a "winter storm" coming down in oklahoma, no riding

Good i can put some time on this conversion

Inventory:
fork checked
triple clamp checked
Pro-Taper bars checked (they actually came with the adapters and it seems it will raise the bar much higher, I guess it's good.)
wheel checked
axel and spacers....

it's not there! argh!!!
I guess it'll give me more time to check everyting out.

Damage report:
After cleaning everything with WD40 everything looks nice and in good shape.

The outside seal looks craked but does not appear to leak.
I will probably take everything apart tomorrow, clean with ... WD40? and see if everything checks out (and also because I'm curious to see the inside of this beast

)

While I have everything apart, anything I should change/remove?
I'll do a search (there are so many thread it's overwhelming!) i'll apreciate any pointers.
(I'm 165 lb dry without gear 5 foot 7, and ride wood trail mainly.)
Will the stock spring suit me or will I have to get new ones?

I could start a new thread for: "what is the best for oil and what is the best level" but I think I'll keep that one for rainy days

One last thing for tonight, where can I find a rebuild kit for the fork? (in case I really need it

)

Please bear with me and my stooopid question, I apreciate any input

Wilf

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 07:31 am Jan 20 2007

I went down to .38 racetech springs. Can you say PLUSH CITY !!! I also have gold valves so bottoming hasn't been an issue. I've only just sorted the stiction problem I was having with my forks out and MAN what a difference. The thing feels like it floats over obstacles.

I'm 70kgs with no gear. Rebound/compression up front are both at 6 clicks in from fully turned out.

Post by **scheckaet** » 09:58 pm Jan 25 2007

what the hell is that???

Is this the bladder you guys talk tabout?
What's its purpose?

motorider200 · Post by **motorider200** » 12:42 am Jan 26 2007

Yes that is indeed the bladder... As far as its purpose I believe it is to supposedly help with bottoming but also causes mid-stroke harshness... I am sure someone with alot more knowledge than me will chime in clarify I could very well be wrong! I removed them from my forks and modified the RB (big washer under the spring) with the advice of the folks here. I haven't got to ride and test them out yet though

Post by **scheckaet** » 01:27 am Jan 26 2007

What do you all do with the "mid valve" on the pushrod assembly?

From the KYB service link:

Note: Most 1995 thru 1997 use a "mid valve" located on the rebound piston (located on the pushrod assembly, fig 8). This works for supercross and some very aggressive pro riders but is too harsh for outdoor use. Race Tech recommends converting the "mid valve" back to the standard check plate design (just like the compression assembly). Remove the existing "mid valve" parts and reinstall the cupped washer, sleeve, check spring, check valve plate, rebound piston (recess towards check plate), rebound valving, base plate, and nut.

Mine is a 01, so I wondered if it was the same (I assume it is, but want to confirm before the fork is all put together).

Post by **scheckaet** » 04:35 am Jan 28 2007

After reading a few post on shims and bladders, it seems Bradf has found a good setup (+ the fact that our fork are the same year)
I was able to match Bradf setting on the LSC and the HS Rebound.
Because of the difference in shims between his setup and my stock, I don't know if i should stick with the stock for now or should try an"hybrid" to get as close as his as I can.
The main difference would be :
HSC: the 15 would be missing
LS Rebound: 15 missing and the 25 x 2 would replace your 3 x 23 (1 of the 25 is same thickness as others, the 2nd is about 2 x thicker), or I could do 25 and 20 (both regular thickness)

Would this even work? It seems close enough but my knowledge is not as good as yours guys on the subject, sooooo any comment?
Thanks

For reference this is the stock setup
Base Valve, LSC:
nut
cup
spring
washer sleeve
piston
17 (removed now)
24 x 4
22
20
18
16 (18 for you)
14
11
thick spacer

cartridge:
HS Rebound
nut
thick washer
11
14
17
20
13
23 x 3

piston
HSC
20
25 x 4 (3 for you)
22
20
17
shim missing (15 for you)
12

LS Rebound
15
shim missing (15 for you)
17
20
22
25 (23 x 3 for you)
20
o ring
cup
rod

bradf · Post by **bradf** » 09:08 am Jan 28 2007

I have a spare axle and nut.

Post by **scheckaet** » 01:06 am Jan 31 2007

NOooooooooooooooooo!

I was puting the wheel on tonight, torqueing everything to spec and:

SNAP! the stupid thing broke!!! Damn stupid torque wrench, should have done it the old fashiion way!!!

So what are my options? Cut my loss and resell the whope setup, as is??? NOT GONNA HAPPEN, I put too much time and effort.
How do you get that out?
Please help!!!! I'm about to blow a gasket, lose it, go postal you name it

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 01:16 am Jan 31 2007

I did the same thing...

Don't stress I got mine out and I think I posted the results. I'll look for ya.

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 01:27 am Jan 31 2007

http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... roken+fork

I wish you luck...

strider80 · Post by **strider80** » 10:57 am Jan 31 2007

Go and buy and ez-out kit, piece of cake.
http://homerepair.about.com/od/interior ... ractor.htm

m0rie · Post by **m0rie** » 11:09 am Jan 31 2007

I agree with Trev, this should be pretty straight forward using an easy out to get the pieces out.

KDXRIDER.NET

KDXRIDER.NET

kx list

kx list