KDXRIDER.NET

Probably 200's only, too..but 220's would be interesting..

I haven't done a lot of looking search-wise into this, but my question regards subject matter and some silencer spoo.

I do know some air striker riders have asked about getting rid of some drips. Granted, jetting by spoo is never a correct thing to do, but how many 200 riders with air striker carbs...riders that know how to tune their bikes..have a spoo-LESS silencer and have their bikes jetted to run as well as they can get it?

A lot of my fussing with the air striker has been with a modified cylinder that was the basis of jetting problems. It detonated, overheated, spooed like crazy. My plugs were stark white. The richer I jetted, the less goo out the back...but it didn't run as well as it should have, either. That ended up being an out-of-round cylinder.

OK. Back to an OEM cylinder. Not ported. Detonation problem is gone, so is overheating. Plugs look like they've actually been sparking a carbon based fuel.

Still have the drips though.

Recently I realized an error in my data logging put me with a 38 pilot when I thought I had a 40. Changed back TO a 40 and response improved..and the drips got a tad better.

Question is: How many air striker riders have a bike they feel is jetted perfectly performance-wise, but still have some gunk out the back?

Inda has said he made a needle change that improved his ride..AND increased the spoo. So what? What I'm after is to get my bike to run as well as it can. If it drips some at that point, I don't care.

I'm thinking that maybe when I had a powder dry snout was when I was running my modified OEM carb..NOT the air striker. That's another 'data logging' problem maybe I don't have an answer for.

Those airfoils in the air striker surely change the signal to the jet block. The SSS may be part of it, too. My bike runs so well at 2 1/2 +/- out on the air screw that I won't give that up..but maybe the increased fuel through the low speed circuit has an effect dry-pipe wise?

I've spent some days below 1/2 throttle on course flagging and such..the pipe is pretty clean then. But anything it seems around taper time (I've been running a DEK-4) starts leaving some spit. It's been awhile since I tried DEK-3..it's time to go back to that and check it out.

So..whadd'ya know, air strikers?

I have NO complaint about how the bike runs. It does everything I want it to when I want it to. Given a choice, I'd prefer that PLUS a powder dry pipe.

For the sake of this thread, I'm not interested in modified cylinder 220 riders that aren't running an air striker. If that's your situation, and your pipe is spotless..that's nice.

But that's not the question at hand.

Thanks!!

Nothing for nothing..When mine starts to drip, I change the packing & its gone for a while...

Question is: How many air striker riders have a bike they feel is jetted perfectly performance-wise, but still have some gunk out the back?


Which could be posted as:

I already wrote:Question is: How many air striker riders have a bike they feel is jetted perfectly performance-wise, but still have some gunk out the back?

EVERY time I made jetting changes I repacked..btw.

Something that is common with both cylinders I've used with the air striker carb, the richer it's jetted, the less the spoo.

I've been around that particular horn about a dozen times, that is ONE thing that has remained so. Changing from a 152 to a 155 main gets me a decrease in performance (the flat up top-too rich syndrome), but if I run it for an afternoon there is LESS junk out the back.

Foots: You are saying the air striker spooges less than the stock carb, correct? Not the the 220 itself is 'way better' with the air striker? I can read that sentence more than one way:

'MY 220 with the A/striker... is way better than with the stock carb.' ...works for me.

Expand some, please? Spoo on both, but less on air striker? Or the bike DOES spoo on the airstriker but runs much better than with the OEM carb?

Have you run a DEK-4? With what point of view?

Thanks.

..the DEK part?

And...everyone else???

I'm not a lot of help here as I don't have a AS but I do have CC's OEM modified carby and with a DEK-4 it leaves but a tiny bit of powder on the sparky. Apples to Oranges and all that but it does somewhat backup CC's idea that his clean sparky was from his non AS days.

You might give a #5 clip a try with the DEK and and see if it cleans up any better.

Not that I can answer this thread yet- but, I just received a Mod A.S. carb for the 200 today from RB. There is snow and cold here right now and it may be a month before I mount it and give it a go.

FWIW - I have no idea WHY I purchased a new Mod A.S. carb for my son's bike that he literally rode two times last year. Guess it is just all the positive comments that you guys have put on this board - I had to see it for myself.

So...you have an OEM PWK35 sitting around? Will have?

I've been pondering getting a modified 35mm for comparative purposes.

If you decide to sell the thing...would you please consider putting my name on the 'advance notice' sheet?

Thanks!

Well, unless the answer is 'No way!'

..in which case, 'No thanks!'

I am running the CEK and have zero spooge. Now I feel even more left out.

Forgive my ignorance...What is a DEK-4? I am new to the 2stroke world as I have recently replaced my DRZ 400E with a 2000 KDX 220 and am now cought up in the mod fever. It will need the USD fork and rear shock work done as I am around 225lbs. I have been reading about the RB designs head and carb mods and have put them on my list as well but I am fuzzy on all of the carb details here in this forum. Is the rb head mod ok along with the rb mod to the stock carb? Does the carb mod include the correct jetting or is that a personal choice? And, what the heck is a DEK-4!? DO I need one? Where do I get one? How much does it cost?

Any information will be a big help...

DEK is an aftermarket single taper needle for the PWK carb that the KDX uses. The -4 refers to the 4th clip position on the needle. The RB head and carb mods work together well. Ron will ship the carb back with pretty close jetting and will include any extra needles and jets that you might want for a small fee.

http://www.rb-designs.com/
The head mod AND carb mod (or air striker) works really well together, kind of hand in hand.
As far as I understand, the dek is a different kind of needle (along with cek...). I assume the # 4 refers to the clip position. (cheap mod)
Do a search on needles and you'll see what does what.

Thanks ...

Back from the dead...(this thread)..but I'll put it here 'cuz it fits.

I thought I put it somewhere else (because it fits, natch)..but, well, you know how that goes 'round this neck-o-the-woods.


I put my OEM silencer back on. Spray on the rear fender? Gone. OEM snout? Not powder dry, but not dripping anything, either.

The old-style tip on my PC S/A (the belled snout..not the 'euro' type, as the TCII has had for quite awhile..and the PC has now) I knew had a lot to do with junk being everywhere, including on whatever gear I was wearing.

Weight diff is minimal. Performance diff? Minimal.

Tested at 89db..correct distance, RPM, all that.

Neat!

How interesting...

Next try running the stock pipe cc!

It's got too many dents in it!!

Do you guys have ethanol-cut gas up there?

It comes and it goes. Sometimes it's only in the 'problem' areas (cities, locales with 'approved' Air Quality Maintenance Areas) sometimes it's not.

This year..to tell the truth...I don't know if it is or isn't! The pumps are not marked 'oxygenated for your driving pleasure' like they used to be. I don't know if that means they changed that labeling rule, or the gas is the same pure unadulterated crap it usually is.

Oh...I don't know what 'up there' means...but that's the way it is...OUT HERE!!

..in the State of Jefferson that is.

canyncarvr wrote:
..in the State of Jefferson that is.

Ya know, it's funny. I don't see that one on the map