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OK. This will probably be so simple for u guys. Got a 91' 250. The previous owner said the clutch was redone not too long ago. The problem is, it pops into gear, wont hardly start in gear,(tries to take off) , and has a tendency to miss third. Ive tried to adjust everything with no luck. I even turned the clutch bracket on the case all the way, with a pair of channel locks to see if i could roll it in gear, with no luck. It is better when its runnin, but stiill tries to pull. Just changed the oil too. Its almost as if the lever on the case is in th wrong spot.? Any ideas??? Thanks, Rick

What did you use for oil?

bel-ray 20-50

There ya go... try cheap @ss 10-40 and change often. Make sure it does not say energy saving and does not have any friction modifiers in it. Allot of guys use Rotella... you know... for diesels.

Well, this is what the previos owner ran, and gave me the xtra. I didnt change it until tonight! He always ran this, with no problems, until he had the clutch redone. Did they get something wrong, Or will it eventualy break in. Only three rides on the top end and the clutch.

If you have the manual... I would check the stack... check the spacers and washers. It's worth looking into....

Lead the blind! Its been too long. I do have a manual.

If it were me, I'd disassemble that entire clutch, photographing the process and order they come apart in, then compare to the exploded diagram. Follow the procedure to reassemble and don't forget to check the warp on every plate. That means DON"T SKIP ANY STEPS when following the manual. If you get confused, then just ask. You will learn a lot about clutches and bikes in general. Don't worry. Each of us has gone through similar experiences. That's how you learn.

Nope. Add a video tape to your still photos.

I made some minor errors in forgetting where the two washers went.

Rick

When you get the clutch apart, check the basket for grooves. If it was assembled correctly the last time, that's probably what is causing the hang up.

Thanks guys. Ill try to check it out tommorow. Got my nephews birthday party tonight. Thanks, Rick

Also, he may have assembled the clutch too dry. Make sure each plate is soaked before reassembly, preferably over nite. Too dry plates stick together and often won't self-lubricate with time.

Got the clutch apart. It does have some small grooves in the basket where the plates slide. I dont have a mic to check the plates though. They do look good, and if i had to guess, they were soaked. They dont look worn, and the metal spacers dont have any marks on them. It all looks very clean. Would those grooves in the basket keep it from engaging all the way? Should i file the grooves down?

For starters the terms 'engage' and 'disengage' are commonly mixed up. For simplicity, 'lever pulled' or not would be more clear.

Notches in the basket will prevent the plates from releasing when you pull the lever.

Make sure the lever coming out of the case is in the right spot. It should travel THRU 90º to the case for the most cable travel.

The bushing in the clutch cover can rob some cable movement, too. You can watch the shaft part of the actuator when you pull the clutch. If it has any lateral movement, either the bushing or bearing is bad.

The clutch lever itself can rob cable movement from you too. If the pivot pin is worn or sloppy, moving the lever results in slop take-up, NOT cable movement.

Of course, make sure your clutch is adjusted correctly in the first place. The smallest amount of freeplay you can get is where you should be.

The 'H' model 200/220s are just like this anyway. Under the best of circumstances, pull the clutch in gear (engine off), try to push the bike and chances are until you UNstick the plates, the rear wheel is going to drag.

A lever/perch change to something with more 'movement' would help that a lot. I've read the MSR lever/perch works well in that regard, but I've not seen it enough times to know it will resolve a clutch dragging problem.

Keep in mind that the clutch cable housing also has a lot to do with how much the cable moves when you yank on the lever. There is NO room for wasted movement.

It may be as simple as needing a new clutch cable.

I wouldn't run gearsaver or 20-50 oil. Inda's right about that!

I think the lever coming out of the case might be the issue. No, i cannot move the bike with the clutch pulled in w/in gear and not running. So to be clear could the grooves in the basket keep my bike from rolling in gear with the clutch lever pulled in? It drags the rear wheel now. which is the friction plates and which is the clutch plates? The service manual doesnt do much good. The plates with the brake shoe look are the very first one on the basket, and the last one.

The grooves make the clutch hang up, and act not like a clutch. Meaning, bike is idling, you pull the clutch lever in, hit the shifter and the bike lurches forward, maybe stalls. That's why Mr. Hinson can make a living making baskets the way they should have been built in the first place.

"they don't look worn.. no marks.." the manual tells you what you are really looking for, and how to measure it.... WARPAGE ring a bell?

The plates alternate, and there is never metal against metal. You don't have the same number of friction plates and discs..because you start the stack with friction (no metal to metal) and end it with friction.

Re: 'No I cannot move..'

Remember..that's a common KDX issue. Consider...the plates are sitting in oil with pressure squeezing them together all the time it's sitting there. Pull the lever...and all those plates are going to 'Ka-Zam' come loose from each other?

Nope.

There's an auto clutch advantage for 'ya! In an autoclutch the plates are APART while it's sitting there..NOT squeezed together. They only GET squeezed together when the engine spins to the designed engagement speed.

Your getting ahead of yourself somewhat. The oil you have been using will make plate stickage worse than it needs to be. The motor oil recommended in the manual (what Inda said) will help. IMO and all, but I generally use 10W-30..especially in the winter.

You asked about filing. If there are marks on the basket, file them out. Keep the fingers square (on both axes) and draw file to keep the rough edge to the outside..which of course you will clean up before you put it back together.

As CM said, check the plates for spec according to the manual. I'd be worried if the friction plates were THICKER than spec. That's not going to help with the 'release' of things. My last brand new Vesrah plates were .118". The manual (H model) says .114-120''.

Also as mentioned a couple of times already..a warped steel plate is a plate that needs to be replaced. That doesn't mean it looks like a salad bowl, either. 'H' manual spec: Service limit is .012", standard is .008" or less.

Well, i didnt have a socket big enough to remove the basket. It could use some filing, but is not that bad. I reversed all of the clutch and friction plates, in case they were wearing one way. Put it back together, with no oil, because i dont have any, and it seemmed to be better. I could kind of roll it in gear, (still tuff), and was able to kick it in gear without going through the garage door. I see what you mean about the 20-50. It seems real thick. When i pulled the clutch apart, alot of them were stickig together. Real gooey, and its fresh oil. Any other tips?

Re: 'Put it back together, with no oil...and it seemmed to be better.'

The why of that is in my post directly above yours.

Re: 'was able to kick it in gear without going through the garage door.'

You started it without oil? I wouldn't expect you to go 'through' anything if it wasn't running. Surely you understand that in such a case..checking anything to do with clutch release with no oil...and a clutch that has just been assembled..that virtually nothing has been 'checked'...right?

Re: 'other tips..'

They've been said, too.

I'm suffering the same problem with my 92' clutch.
I actually did not know I had an issue until earlier today when I tried to move my bike in gear (clutch engaged ) lever in. My friend rode my bike on our last day in the Mohave desert and mentioned having problems with the clutch while trying to coast downhill in first(engine off).
I didn't give it a second thought cuz it seemed fine to me. The same friend just had his clutch worked on for the same reason. Basket was filed, oil changed and was fine after(KX250). I know I used whatever oil I had leftover from when I changed oil on my track bike (not a smart move).

I almost started searching when I saw this thread.
Thanks Rick and all who has replied