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I'm in the middle of installing a pair or barkbuster hand guards on my '06 200 and that stock super long clutch lever hits the hand guards before it is fully extended. I guess the simplest solution is to go to a shorter lever. Can anyone recommend a shorter lever that will work with the stock perch and is not a Taiwan-made piece of crap? Replacing the perch and lever unit is also an option but I already test fit a Magura perch and lever (nice quality there) and it was also too long.

Thanks,

MaicoCPA

Grind it off....

I would need to take the whole ball off the end to get the clearance I need.

maicocpa wrote:I would need to take the whole ball off the end to get the clearance I need.

Yep. Cutting is a good way to go. If you prefer to leave the ball end...

Both Moose and MSR make lever sets that are about 1" shorter than stock. They run around $22.00. The lever sets have both brake and clutch levers. They also have a rubber insert where your fingers go. I prefer these to the stock levers.

Moose also makes a shorty clutch lever that is similiar quality to your stock lever. It runs around $9.00.

I ground mine off... I don't need the ball myself....

The ball is mostly to keep you from gutting yourself in a crash, which would be hard to do with bar guards on anyway. Next time you need bar guards check out the Cycras. they bend around and offer a lot of room for the levers.

quailchaser wrote:

maicocpa wrote:I would need to take the whole ball off the end to get the clearance I need.

Both Moose and MSR make lever sets that are about 1" shorter than stock. They run around $22.00. The lever sets have both brake and clutch levers. They also have a rubber insert where your fingers go. I prefer these to the stock levers.

I was at my local bike shop today checking out their lever selection and they have the MSR levers you speak of. They look shorter than stock but I didn't have my stock lever with me to compare. Tomorrow I will take it with me and if it is longer I will go with the MSR levers. Thanks.

Yep mines cut off.. my hands don't slide back anywhere near the ball anyway. with Acerbis bark busters

Usually the first time I go down the ball end snaps off, I haven't had the ball on either in years. Just grind it down and try to round it off.

I found with guards on and my levers where I like them, the ball could snag on vines and such.
I never gave it any thought and just cut both levers down.

I ended up purchasing the MSR lever set and there is now plenty of clearance for the clutch lever retaining the ball ends. It is about 3/4 " shorter.

Don't know about the MSR lever-to-perch fit..but your clutch will work better if they do. Fit that is.

I take that back..the clutch may indeed work better if it DOESN'T fit. It depends on HOW it doesn't fit.

How's THAT?

I got tired of replacing levers when I broke'm. So I quit replacing them! Hence my clutch lever is missing the end..and I've had the same lever on there now for about four years.

Do you notice a change in pull effort or clutch en/disengagement with the MSR lever?

I bought an MSR perch too because the pivot hole in the MSR lever is smaller than stock and I would have had to find a different pivot pin. With the shorter lever the clutch pull increased slighly but is still not bad at all, nowhere near the pull on any of my vintage bikes.

Go with the MSR Pro Raptor II clutch lever. It has mush easier pull, and its adjustable with 3 different settings.

I can use one finger to feather my clutch.

I wouldn't care for a grippy lever. As your fingers curl around the lever something obviously has to slip, and I want it to be my gloves against the lever...not my gloves against my fingers.

Somewhere I read those three settings to be (like) 'Very easy' 'Much more easier than that' and, 'Whoa!! THIS is WAY easier!!!'

What do those three setting relate to? 'Easier' by necessity includes something else..an angle change, less cable movement, fulcrum change...SOMEthing.

I have just moved the perch in some. Moose ones work good too.

The MSR raptor II has three different pivot locations.

The easiest pull has the least cable movement, of course.

We covered this last weekend....
One of my buddys has one on his bike. He runs it at the easiest pull, longest travel position. It also has the thumb adjustment and he says he has to move it tighter as the ride progresses. I'm not sure if that is due to clutch heating up, cable heating up where it passes the exhaust or what. He says at the end of a ride, he has screwed the adjuster in quite a bit. Nest time he gets it out to ride, he must loosen the cable because it is too tight.
He likes a very short easy pull and uses two fingers, pointer and middle. I find that sends a sharp pain up my forearm.

I'm happy with the stock lever/perch and the ball cut off. The pivot hole in the lever will get wallowed out after a while.

A new cable and cleaned up perch and lever pivot sure make for an easy pull. Lubricating the cable seems to cause me more trouble in the long run than leaving it dry.

I saw on here somewhere where someone put a small bearing in the lever pivot hole. He got it from a hobby shop and it was for model trains .

Re: 'Lubricating the cable seems to cause me more trouble in the long run than leaving it dry.'

Guaranteed and every single time without exception...if I want to have trouble with a perfectly working cable all I need to do is lubricate it. Yes, that is using a proper lube for that application and the proper applicator and properly applied.

Thanks for saying so! Now I know there is at least ONE other rider out there with the self-same (and completely correct) point of view as I have.