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Can anyone give me a general idea on how many links are in my chain, looking to replace it. I have 15 /47 gearing so it might be a link or 2 shorter than stock. Thanks guys.

liv2ride626 wrote:Can anyone give me a general idea on how many links are in my chain, looking to replace it. I have 15 /47 gearing so it might be a link or 2 shorter than stock. Thanks guys.

95 and Up Stock KDX200/220 chain is 108 link with 13/47 as stock gearing, if anything your chain might be longer than stock...but, you never can tell for sure unless you count those little buggers. Or you can do what I do, get a chain breaker (or good grinding skills), buy a 120 link chain and break it where you want it.

Where's J-bird when you need him?

Is there a reason not to count the links?

It cannot be 'a link' shorter...OR longer, for that matter.

There is no such thing as a 109 link chain. No such thing as 107, either.

As stated, the OEM chain is 108 links with 13/47 sprockets.

Even with a chain breaker you will still need to do some pin grinding if you need to take links out of a too-long chain.

With a 15T CSS you will need 110 links.

Certainly a longer chain, links removed to fit is also a choice.

But, it's 110 links you're after.

Re: Is there a reason...


Yes. Because a lot of folks don't know how.

Where's J-bird when you need him?

He is There http://www.best-motorcycle-chain-lube.com/

Ha!

Sometime back I referenced one of his pages when the subject was wear: What was a worn out chain, what wasn't.

How many folks caught that it was 'his' page?

Not a soul! I thought that was purty darn funny!!

Not even Wibby...and JB is his almost-best-buddy!!

Even with a chain breaker you will still need to do some pin grinding if you need to take links out of a too-long chain.

Hmmm, so confused. I've never had this issue. Chain breaker worked fine to break the KDX "O" ring chain down to 110 from 120 and worked fine to break my KX "X" ring chain down from 120 to 114. You must have one of those defective "Polish" chain breakers.

And, I can't believe you left everyone hanging with the open ended statement about counting links...that's almost worse than having to wait for the rest of the story from that other thread.

Thanks guys yea im gonna order a 110. I have had experience working on all types of bicycle chains for years so I know how but why cut when you can get it right out the box right? lol And i really dont have the patience to sit on my garage floor and count each link then order a chain and find out i skepped a few.

Oh yeah!!

Well maybe HE has a Polish chain breaker and I'm sparing him the agony of d'feet!!

My chain brakher has worked fine..I've seen others that will not push out the pin unless the head is ground off first. Much better to take the head off the pin and get the chain apart than to NOT do that, bend the drive pin on your (Polish) breaking tool..then you're just screwed.

'Ya can't believe?


I didn't SAY I knew how..............

canyncarvr wrote:Ha!

Sometime back I referenced one of his pages when the subject was wear: What was a worn out chain, what wasn't.

How many folks caught that it was 'his' page?

Not a soul! I thought that was purty darn funny!!

Not even Wibby...and JB is his almost-best-buddy!!

Maybe you shoulda figured out nobody clicks on your lnks!

It wasn't a link Mr. Sarcasticman. The word was 'referenced. I'd post a link to wikopedia for a definition, but you wouldn't pay any attention to it anyway.

oh so sorry, Mr Wizzurd, carry on then...

Here I is!

Chain breakers, like the ones Motion Pro provides, work by pushing the pin through both of the outer plates. This method may require you to grind the head of the pin off so it won't hose the tool up when it tries to push the pin through all the plates.

A standard type chain breaker, as is sold at any NAPA or similar auto partshouse, only pulls one outer pin plate off of the pin. It may seem as if it too is pushing the pin through the plate, but it is actually only pulling on the outer plate. These take less energy to get the link aprt and no grinding is needed.

Grinding any metal anywhere in the vicinity of your high-dollar ring chain aint such a good idea. Those little molten shards of metal will eat rings up fast.

And with any type of chain breaker, you only want to take a small bite on one pin, and then take a small bite on the other. Repeating until it comes loose. Taking too much at one time on one pin can cause the neighboring link to get bent.

Welcome!

Well, to you or to whomever went to a lot of trouble mucking with your email addy!

Generally curious..pulling the plate just breaks the rivet off the other side?

liv2ride626 wrote:Thanks guys yea im gonna order a 110. I have had experience working on all types of bicycle chains for years so I know how but why cut when you can get it right out the box right? lol And i really dont have the patience to sit on my garage floor and count each link then order a chain and find out i skepped a few.

You still need to count the links, your 110 link chain my have been counted wrong before it was sent to you.

As CC said earlier, chains only come in even link configurations. There is an inner link and an outer link to each pair of links. In order for the master link to work, you need to have an inside link on each end of the chain to connect the master link (which convienently is only one link). Without a master link, your chain would be an odd number of links and awful hard to keep on the sprockets.

As to Jbird's comment on removing two pins...this is unnecessary on most dirt bike chains as they have removable clip type master links. For these type of chains you only need to remove one pin to take off links. Remember that you are removing links in pairs so that you will always end up with an inner link on each end of the chain for the master link connection.

As for counting links...count the pins starting from the master link (including the master link pins) and you will have your chain length in links.

Also, remember the golden rule...Measure twice: cut once. You don't want to have to call the shop you bought the chain from and say to them "I cut the chain twice and it's still too short".

I dunno, that don't sound like Jbird to me

Mr. Wibbens wrote:I dunno, that don't sound like Jbird to me

What he doesn't smell fishy enuf ?!?

Oh, it's me allright.

quail,
I'm sorry to disagree...and it is very unlike me to engange in an argument...:)
But, I don't care if pigs are flying around...you need to remove TWO pin heads to be able to remove a link...the mater link has nothing to do with this issue.
Hell, just take your chain off and hold it in front of you..then tell us how you are going to remove a link by just taking one pin out.
You may want to sober up first though.....

cc, yes...the conventional breaker "pulls" the plate over the peened head and strips the peen away as it is coming off. OK, so it pushes the pin out...six of one, half dozen of the other.
The MP breaker has the peened head to deal with, as well as the energy it takes to slide through the hole in the opposing outer pin plate, since the way that type of breaker works is to completely slide the pins out of place.

When using a breaker, the secret is to take a small bite on one pin, and move to the next. When you use a conventional breaker, it will be easy to see how the tool places the pin link in a precarious position of angle. Without taking a small bite of the opposing pin, you can actually cause damage to the next link...the one you are hoping to use for a master connection eventually.

Jbird...Well, I did exactly as you asked. Almost...after your lambasting of me, I didn't have the confidence to take my chain off to hold it in front of me for fear that I might not have the mental capacity to put it back on properly. Therefore, I grabbed a new DID 520 x 120 Oring chain from the shop. I also did not hold it up in front of myself...for fear of dropping it and rendering it useless.

Step 1. Made sure I was sober. I even skipped my psychotropic medication (against my doctors orders) to make sure I was good and "clean" for this experiment.

Step 2. Layed new chain down.

Step 3. Put chain breaker on chain where I was going to pretend I wanted to break it.

Step 4. Stared at chain and chain breaker for extended period of time.

Conclusion. I only need to remove one pin to break the chain. Photo attached.




From the photo, the one pin that holds the links under the chain breaker is the only pin that needs to be removed to shorten this chain. It would appear that my chain breaker and method is some how magical. Either that, or there is more than one way to break a chain. Removing two pins, or grinding pins, or whatever probably works fine. I've broken a chain or two and never had any issues with damage. Hense my comment of being unnecessary to remove two pins.

What's really refreshing, is that you are able to present a good rational argument for your point of view without resorting to insulting others.