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I have an '06 200 and i sent my carb out a few days ago for the rb mod. cant wait to get it back, i did it because you guys said it was good, i hope you were right!

Did you send the head as well? This is on my list for next year.

just the carb for now. maybe the head later on...I havent heard there is a big difference for the 200 on the head mod.

I'll be interested to hear your take on the results of the mod. I see most people raving about the mod on their 220's, but not alot about the 200's. I was thinking the head mod gave better results on the 200 than the carb. mod. Not so?

I put them both on my 98 200 at the same time so I don't know what did what. Did it make a difference ?? Hell yeah, a pretty huge difference at that.

The reason there is such a profound difference on the 220 is that the 220 carb size is smaller than the 200.

I went with the airstriker modded carb and personally, I think it's a better way to go for the 200 as well. For what I sold my old carb for, I was able to pay for the difference.

The best part about an RB modded carb of any type for either bike is the ability to actually adjust the air circuit. If you didn't order the thumb screw do it now and have that on when you get the carb. You will need to play with it in order to appreciate the work done to the carb fully.

awoodman wrote:Ii hope you were right!

Hey, is Snow Cold

That thumb screw is pretty handy

Whoever thought that up and brought it to Ron's attention oughta get free beer for life!

Hey..., "AT-A-Boy" Mr. Wibbens, you get the credit...., and hey you got the very first one "and for free I might add"

As for the free beer for life, you bet! Just go to your local pub and say the brews are on Ron

Just glad you liked it

Ron

awoodman wrote:just the carb for now. maybe the head later on...I havent heard there is a big difference for the 200 on the head mod.

We did the opposite - had the head work done on the 200 but did not have the carb done. (Thinking I might be sending off carb or purchasing the AS carb due to all you guys saying what a difference it makes.)

Head mod on the 200 is worth it to get the bike running cleaner. It adds some off the bottom and mid-range and allows you jet it better than stock. I also believe it helps extend your fuel range - at least for the type of riding we do. Clean smooth running bike with a little more low-mid boost at higher elevations. 5000 feet and higher elevation level is where we play.

ok, thanks guys

My carb is shipping out tommorow...!

hey awoodman we'll have to hookup in the spring for a rip i live in hudson
tom

yeah, sounds good! I got the carb back, rode it for a few minutes but i didnt get a chance to mess with thair screw so it still bogs a lot off of the start.

I see most people raving about the mod on their 220's, but not alot about the 200's. I was thinking the head mod gave better results on the 200 than the carb. mod. Not so?

I don't know what that means.

What 'the mod' on the 220, but not the 200?

Specifically referencing the head in the second sentence only further confuses the issue. I have NO idea where that impression came from, either.

Not so, indeed.

Cyinder head modification on the 200 certainly does not give 'better' results than does Ron's modified carburetor. While not as disparate as apples and oranges, the two are not qualitatively 'the same'. Not quantitatively, either.

Ron's carb work on the OEM 200 PWK is great.
A modified air striker on a 200 is better.
Ron's modified head on a 200 is a further improvement, along the lines IC already said.

The amount of change between the 200 and the 220? Probably greater on the 220. It's a 3mm change in bore-size for the 220, a 1mm change for the 200 (as ski already said).

Ron has said the 220 heads are considerably less consistent (amongst different 220 heads) than are 200 heads. It stands to reason then that the head modification on 220s is likely 'more' better on 220s than 200s generally speaking. It stands to the same reason that will not always be the case.

If you're interested in having your KDX run as well as it can, you cannot overlook either of Ron's modifications, carburetor or head.

Ok, so I had some time to play with the bike yesterday, but had some trouble with the air screw. It was set to 7/8 of a turn out, so I started from there and turned it, and didn't notice a difference, even after a whole turn. I turned in other direction, and same thing. Is this air screw meant for when you are at 0 throttle and you go wot right away? Or only from 0-1/4? I usually just do fast shifting, off of the line, so I go from 0-wot throttle, then shift, then the same thing again. should I test the results by stopping and using the clutch? Or should I slow way down to almost stall without the clutch pulled in and gun it? When I do that, it bogs.

When I do that, it bogs

there's your sign

you mean that when I have it at 0 throttle and i go WOT right off the bat, it shouldn't bog at all? because it does badly. Theres no whay to tell which way to turn the airscrew?

As far as I understand, the circuits (pilot, main) are all connected.
Do a search on jetting and you'll find some post about it that will describe how and what to test.
Read this, might be helpfull http://www.all-offroad.com/DirtBikes/Be ... Nov98.html

good luck

canyncarvr wrote:

I see most people raving about the mod on their 220's, but not alot about the 200's. I was thinking the head mod gave better results on the 200 than the carb. mod. Not so?

I don't know what that means.

What 'the mod' on the 220, but not the 200?

Look to the subject line and all will become clear (RB Carb Mod). I was referencing the subject in context, then I mused that the head modification seemed to get more praise than the carburetor modification, on the kdx 200. I figured boring the 220 carb would give better results because its bore is smaller than on the 200's carb, and the 220 has more displacement, and is basically starved for flow at upper rpm's. Clear? I understand it's not all about the boring, but adjustability too.