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if my swing arm axle doesn't come out soon, either it or my knuckles will be useless. any suggestions? i put the Deep Creep to it for about 3 days and, nothing. I even found my 6 ound sledge

sledge and lotta heat

it will come!



It was HELL , believe me, but it came out

I could only get about a half inch out, then I'd punch it back in and repeat, took a few times and for me to get really PISSED!

Holy cow. I guess that's one way to figger out how to remove and reinstall wheel bearings. I think ida been askeert of breaking the hub and swingarm if i was beating that hard.

Mine was the swingarm pivot bolt

I don't think you'll be able to reuse those bearings.

where should i apply the heat, the frame or the swing arm or both. i have a heat gun i'll use, too close to the fuel lines for a torch for me.

I used a torch right on the pivot bolt

Pull the tank, heat gun's gonna do diddly

ok, i've bent a half inch piece of steel trying to beat it out, i can't even trun the axle using a 3 foot monkey wrench as a cheater bar, the socket keeps popping off. i've used penetrant, heat, voodoo, everything.

the swing arm appears to have good movement up and down and minimal if any lateral movement. can i get away with not changing the bearings? any way to get some grease in there?

the end of the axle is almost wasted.

Seems to me if the pivot is fused to the bearings that would be a good indicator that the bearings are TOAST!

FWIW, I used a torch with MAPP gas, comes in a yellow bottle. Gets a hell of a lot hotter than the standard propane bottles (blue)

Also you should be using a brass drift, I spent a couple days driving around til I found the right one, I also found a steel drift that was smaller around than the pivot bolt, which allowed me to pound it out the rest of the way

Try an Impact Gun too.....

Don't quit on it, 'cuz it has to come out. If it's stuck that bad, the bearings are indeed already shot.

A couple of things... If you're rounding off the pivot pin hex head (too late now, but), are you using the correct tool? That would be a 6-point socket of the correct size. If you used a 12pt socket, that's part of the problem. A 6pt may still get you some 'bite'.

Still, getting the pin to turn isn't likely going to make it all better. If the sleeves are corroded to the pin and the sleeve to bearing part of it is perfect, the pin would spin, but you're still going to have to beat the pin out of the sleeves.

Heat and penetrant is the first choice. As Wibby said, a heat gun isn't likely worth anything. You need HEAT!..and it has to get in pretty deep. You need a torch.

DO take the fuel tank off. Lay the bike on its side (I would suppose you have done this already). Go through numerous cycles of heat (on the swingarm AND the pin I'd say) and added penetrant. After you put the penetrant on/in, do tap the pin to make it vibrate. That vibration will aid the penetrant in its..well...penetration ability. With the bike on its side you can block the opposite end. That way each 'whack' isn't wasted from the bike simply moving. SUPPORT the opposite side to get all the effect of your whacking.

Maybe use another brand of penetrant...Rust Reaper, Gibb's or Liquid Wrench.

I recall one rider going thru the heat/soak cycle for a good number of days before he got his pivot pin out.


The last thing to do is cut the thing out. There is room to get a hacksaw blade between the swingarm and the frame. Obviously you still need to get the pieces out, but it's a bit easier with the swingarm out of the bike.

Re: 'can i get away with not changing the bearings?'

No. No unless you're selling the bike next week.

Kind'a makes you wish you would'a done this a long time ago, 'eh?



BTW, my pivot pin has never been stuck like yours (and several other's), so nothing of what I say comes from personal experience.

Good luck!

Oh...ditto on the brass drift part. Deform the end of the pin bad enough and you will HAVE to cut it out!!

I spent many hours and many heat cycles before mine even started to budge, and then I could only get it to move half an inch. After pounding it back in a few times (maybe a hunnerd) it finally came out

He's mentioned the back and forth part a couple of times 'cuz it's important.

Kind'a like using a tap....a threading device that is.

Oh...a reciprocating saw would work much better than a hacksaw. That's a given, but I'll mention it anyway.

**edit**

OK...so I didn't now what Deep Creep was. Now I do. It's seafoam in a can. That's what they mfg says.

Seafoam is useful in removing carbon deposits. It's an ENGINE additive fer crin out loud.

You need to use something different.

Read THIS!

Note that there is a difference between penetrating oil and solvent. Also note in the above article the 'back and forth' part?

It will come out. Heat, vibration and a good oil/solvent will get the job done. Heck...hang a trouble light on it after your next dose of WD40, Liquid Wrench or favorite penetrant. Let it sit for 12 hours, whack it a few times.

Keep after it. You will get it.

Thanks for all the pop-up's CC!

But, I did get a free dinner for 2 at Olive Garden!

it has finally released. a lot of heat and a larger punch got it. i think having a larger punch for me to swing more freely at the punch made the difference. before i was using a piece of steel about the size of the bolt, the new one was just about an eighth of an inch smaller than the hole. i could make a full swing without fear of the miss. oh an i missed before and probably injured my pinky.

i will probably go ahead and replace the axle, i think the thread part is a little too boogered.

i feel a lot better having that thing out. now time to press out/in the old/new bearings. having a press at work is nice.

Glad you got it out!

Good deal!!


...and THAT'S why God made XP!

I din' get no steenking popups.

You're still welcome, though!!

They sneak through after about 15 are blocked.
Being an IT guy you think I'm running 95 maybe?

Wow! That's past WFWG!!!

Tag: You are indeed IT!