KDXRIDER.NET

Hello
(Last jetting question,I Swear)!
In the past (MX_ WOT)I have only had to change the Main leaner one size for every Ten degrees @.
How often do you (If at all) guys change your Pilot and Needle as the Temps Rise / Fall ?

Thanks
Tony

I change main at 20 deg. I also change pilot, I use 40 for 55-85 and a 42 for below 55.

20º sounds about right, main and pilot. Clip/needle stays the same.

Keep in mind that an average riding day 'round here will see temp changes of 40-50º to start with.

No. I don't rejet in the middle of a ride because the sun came out. I do change the airscrew regularly (it works completely differently in a modified carb though)...maybe several times a ride.

Just to be sure, you all talking about celsius, right?

nevermind I just re-read the post...

I'm running 150/38 CEK-3 right now and and have been since the temps dropped below 100F. When it was above that I would have a 148/35... right on the edge, lean-wise

I was considering dropping going to 152/40 as the temps get to under 60F around ride time, but I'm wondering if that will be too rich. QuailChaser did that last season I'm in no great rush.

Rick

That's uh, quite a combo there....

Too cryptic, Inda.

Rick

Sounds pretty tight.

hmm, i feel pretty weak. My bike rides fine all year long with no adjustments. that's probably why a kdx is best for me, does it all, no matter what kind of moron you are. fortunately the guy who had the bike before me had the carb set up well before i got it.

I'm with layoutd. I don't make any changes through the year. Seems to run fine all around.
I do notice a difference, though, as the temperature changes. Clutch abuse makes all things equal.

One thing about a bike at a high state of tune, is that it is at a high state of tune and can come off of there pretty easily.

What do I know, my last bike was an XR400 and my first a CT70

Indawoods wrote:Sounds pretty tight.

A'ight, Holmes. You got the shizzy on dat.

I think what you're saying, in your hep MX urban slang, is that it is jetted too lean and that the main/pilot combination are out of whack as I should be using a 45 or so.

Problem is if I go any higher in my RB-ed bike, the plug gets all gooky (during slow single-track) and my choke becomes useless (it wouldn't start with the choke on until I leaned out the jetting).

Keep in mind, in Phoenix, in the summer, I'm riding at 5am to avoid the heat and even then it's starting at 85F and climbing to 105F if we can manage to ride to 9am. As well, while Phx is at 1,200, where we ride can be up around 2,500.

Also, I ride kinda suckie, which we all know can be corrected with clever use of jets, needles, clips, and toluene.

Rick

Not saying it's wrong.... just sounds tight.
Running on the edge of lean like you said.

I don't have mine perfect yet with the DEK and Modified Head change but trying to get it dialed in. SO, I am reading all the jetting threads.....

Comparing 220 to 200 jetting may not be the best thing to do. I've really got no clue since I haven't ever worked on a 220 but from what I've read on this forum.....

I seem to recall Ski's 220 running quite a bit leaner jetting than CC and mine 200's.

I just thought the RB'd carb would end up being closer in jetting that the stock 33mm and 35mm. 20cc's ain't much.

20cc's ain't much, but the significantly tamer porting on the 220's is...

Ski also ran a FMF K-35 (Woods/Torque) pipe which generally takes a leaner setup than a K-30 Rev profile would.

AZRickD wrote:

Indawoods wrote:Sounds pretty tight.

Problem is if I go any higher in my RB-ed bike, the plug gets all gooky (during slow single-track) and my choke becomes useless (it wouldn't start with the choke on until I leaned out the jetting).

Rick

The choke becomes useless? I believe my choke is essential to start the cold bike, and my jetting is 160/48. When I start the bike though, with choke, it revs pretty high without me touching the gas. Does anybody experience this?

Sounds like you might have an air leak somewhere.

m0rie wrote:20cc's ain't much, but the significantly tamer porting on the 220's is...

Ski also ran a FMF K-35 (Woods/Torque) pipe which generally takes a leaner setup than a K-30 Rev profile would.

I also have a torque-pipe (PC Plat II) installed by QuailChaser. Maybe that's it? Perhaps SkiPro can shed some light on whether I should $wap my torque pipe for a rev pipe on my 220.

The choke becomes useless?

Indeed it did. During the hot summer month of July 2006 (highs of 115F & jetted 150/38/CEK-3), the bike would not start with the choke on, and if I started it with the choke *off* and then quickly put the choke *on*, it would stall. Power was a pit wimpy as well. I made the bold move of re-jetting to 148/35/CEK-3 and I got a nice ringa-ting-ting back in the exhaust, the plug wasn't all goopy and I actually *had* to use the choke to cold-start it. This temp extreme only lasts for a month, so I had to re-jett back to 150/38 by late August.

Keep in mind that while I did plug chops, I didn't cut the threads off to get a clear look at the deep part of the insulator. Next time...

Rick