KDXRIDER.NET

My bike made a big Grrrrr noise last weekend. Maybe because my bike drunk a lot of water on may 13.

My lower end is at our KTM dealer. (I ride with the owrner)

Here is the list of things to to.

Crankshaft bearings and seals
connecting rod and bearing (split crank)
water pump shaft and bearing
weseco piston kit and pin bearing
kickstarter seal
shift lever shaft seal
gaskets
3 hours of labour

I hope it will be good for a other 20 years.

Replace all gaskets and bearings that require the cases to be split and you should be good to go phil.

That's exactly what I've done to my bike at the start of the summer except for the water pump seal !

Believe me, it's all worth it ;-)

HMMM ... Yesterday,i was cleaning my fmf pipe and found that the first rubber bumper was broken.

Maybe it was just that! 15$

I will eat peanut butter for a couples of months...i gess.

But my lower end will be top shape!

How much does all this cost?

Rick

Crankshaft bearings and seals 60$
connecting rod and bearing (split crank) 160$ +60 to split
water pump shaft and bearing 60$
weseco piston kit and pin bearing 120$
kickstarter seal 10$
shift lever shaft seal 10$
gaskets 30$
3 hours of labour 150$

======== 660 us aprox

Kdxquebec - Connecting rod and bearing should be costing about $90: Wiseco piston and bearing about $90. US prices

Check Rocky Mountain ATV/MC online catalog prices - likely can get the gasket set, main bearings and seals, piston kit and rod kit shipped to your door and save you $125 or so over those prices you listed. (I did not check the current prices before writting this note but believe I'am close to their pricing. Also MX-South is a good supplier of parts IMO)

MXSouth is a good supplier...but slow in shipping. Rocky Mountain is a better bet if you need it now.

I went with a Oem kawasaki connecting rod kit maybe they are more expensive than weseco?

I know prices are a lot cheaper in USA but if i make an order to rockymountain canadian custums will charge me near 30-35% in different fees +shipping....

Big Parts suppliers here do not want to sell directly to the people,(maybe one but i do not know them) they only sell to shops and dealers so WE pay the big price.

hey! who wants to buy for me all the bike parts I need and send them to me a birthday gift?? Custums can do nothing with this method!! what a real deal!

just kidding!! my engine is done now and i will install it tonight.

You'll have some good peace of mind having had it all done Phil....Now get it installed and take it for a test ride!

Hi just got my engine.

But the crank is not in the dead center as you see in the pic.

Why? is this a problem? is it normal? OH well....

Sorry I can't really answer your question on whether or not the crank is designed so that the crank weights are suppose to be dead centered within your cases or not.

I've rebuilt quite a few engines over the years and have to say I've always been focused on ensuring the mains are fully seated; careful that I don't knock the crank out of tolerance during reassembly and ensuring a free rotating crank shaft: along with proper torques on all the related parts. There may have been a few thousands differences between the left and right crankshaft halves clearances and the case - just did not seem to be important. The reason - the small end of the rod has a significant amount of side to side float available.

My conclusion - right or wrong - is that it does not matter and thus is normal or at least acceptable.

yes IDAO. After reflexion,I think is maybe acceptable


But The shop will see me again

Yesterday after the intallation and double checking everything,I started the engine.Went for a 5 min road test...shift well,clutch works ok.

A loud sound is still there on the idle and follow the REV. Seems to be coming from the clutch or right case. Maybe because I do a file job to the basket?

Anyway I can not ride my bike with a weird sound like this.I know what sound should have my baby after 5 wonderful years of hard riding.

Hope you get it all sorted out soon Phil...before the riding withdrawl symptoms set in!

KB wrote - "Maybe because I do a file job to the basket? "

I doubt that filing the clutch basket has anything to do with a noise that is coming from your bike. If I understand your problem, the noise is there as the bike is idling and rev'd up without using the clutch. When the clutch lever is not being pulled, the pressure plate should be holding the steels and friction plates tight in the basket. Too sloppy of clearance in the basket finger area results in a "clunk" noise when engaging or disengaging the clutch because the fingers of the plates rotate a little until they contact the other side of the basket finger's slot.

There is a thrust washer and a sleeve that the clutch basket ride on that could be worn out allowing the clutch basket to wobble a little. Maybe this could cause the noise your hearing??

The good news is that you should have a mechanically solid reliable engine now with all the important wear items freshing up.

What ever is making the noise under that side cover has likely left some sort of tell tale sign - i.e. wear marks, scuffed surface(s), etc. Should be a little easier to identify the culprit. I would inspect the inner part of the clutch cover when it is removed and also the fasteners under the clutch basket along with the engine case surfaces themselves. (As one area of potential noise)

Hopefully it will be a minor part and you will not need to eat peanut butter for another week.

Keep us informed - my friend, of your bike's diagnosis.

Thanks guys for your replies.

I just came back from the Quebec KTM shop.I started my bike in front of the guy who fixed my bike. He noticed the weird sound . He said ``--this bike is old and we can not make new things with old things,this is probably your clutch basket gear and crank gear,maybe all is worn and used.---``THEN I tried to tell him something but,
he went away in the shop, leaving me alone in the parking lot.
"!%/%/%?$&?$%/$$%"/%"$"/?/$&

Ok they replaced crank bearing and hot rod , IT was not the problem,I can live with that, I will pay the bill.

I went in the up-store to talk with the owrner and he came outdoors to listen to my bike. Him also, noticed the anormal noise. He will ask a diagnosis from an other mecanic tonight. (nightshift)

What the heck? if you are old and you go to the hospital,the doctor is supposed to fix you. His job is not to tell you---You are to old sorry! Go to your house and live like this and you will die.

My bike run like crap at iddle and the noise follow the rev. I am not crazy and I want to keep my bike for many years again

Hope this story will end on a positive side,really.

Phil.

Phil have you checked all the quick stuff? Pipe and silencer mounts are correct attached? Springs?

Yes. this time I am sure.

On the central shaft question, from rebuilding my engine i think it would be near impossible to get it central, when you run it i bet it will self align. I am basing this on the fact that you would need a shoulder on the shaft to ensure alignment instead of just the floating shaft that it has.

Dont count on your crank to self align! This is where all the $$ comes into play when reassembling the bottom end....Otherwise any of us wrench monkeys could do it.