KDXRIDER.NET

Well...

I have had this carb apart 22 times. Checking cleaning changing jets adjusting floats and adjusting the needle.

I cleaned the tank, disassembled and cleaned the petcock.

Throttle is set correctly at 1-2mm play.

Here's the problem. It runs great for about 30 seconds... then the R's drop and finally dies.


Why?

Here's what it has:

Needle 1174 on the 3rd clip position (It was starving for fuel in the middle)
155 main
45 pilot

It was peeing but I burmished the seat, cleaned and checked the float valve and set the float to about 17mm... now it don't pee.


This is driving me nuts as I got the rest of the bike in tip-top shape. It was doing this when I got it.

OK so I assume we have a solid steady stream with the line of at the carb and the valve turned on. Next open the drain on the carb and see if the needle and seat will flow a good stream out the drain. from there your on your own. I just get the impresion it has a restriction some where and when it sits the float bowl is replenished but it wont keep up with the bike running. Just trying to help you think!

Check for intake air leaks......

Ron

That's what I've been reading. But, it seems to me that an intake leak would cause it to rev..... I'm probably wrong though....

I'll check it out. What do you guys use? WD, carb cleaner or what?

Carb cleaner, get a can of AIR (Compressed to blow the jets out) Are the Vent tubes blocked or very old??? Maybe put in a new pilot

I have a compressor and use that, I made sure the vent tubes were clear (they are old er... very old.... 11 years old)

If I can't find any air leaks with the carb cleaner... I will try a new pilot. Thank goodness I have extras!

The more I read on it Ron, the more it makes sense. Thanks for the input!

If you have 'spares' you can 'spare up' an external float level gauge. That will tell you what the actual level in the bowl is doing....you will be able to SEE it! The other stuff related to flow testing doesn't let you WATCH what's happening.

That's probably not the problem, but it's something you can verify with your eyeballs.

Well... it was the pilot jet.

After replacing the intake gasket it was still dying. Pulled out the pilot and there was green stuff all over it. What the...

Dug out another 45 and she idling like a dream now.

Thanks guys!

The 'green stuff' was NOT there the other 21 times it was apart?

canyncarvr wrote:The 'green stuff' was NOT there the other 21 times it was apart?

It was probably a "GREMLIN"
Those little BASTARDS come at the dammdest times

Nope... it wasn't. Don't ask me why.... 'cause I don't know.

I took everything apart... and I mean everything! Soaked all metal parts in Berrymans overnight.... recleaned all parts with carb cleaner and made sure all passages were clear, reassembled carb. Took apart several other times to make needle changes and float bowl height changes and to burmish the needle valve seat. AND THE GREEN STUFF WASN"T THERE! So there!

Green Stuff? Was it green tire "SLIME" residue? Maybe someone sabotaged your gas tank? A "FRIEND" of mine did that to me once and the bike ran crappy for a week. I cleaned my tank out and never had another issue. I never cleaned my carb though, so I'm not exactly sure if the deposits are greenish. Sometimes riding alone has its advantages.

No.... it looked like what brass gets on it when it is really corroded. And... that stuff was proly lurking inside the pilot jet and the cleanings started breaking it down.

That's all I can figure....

Indawoods wrote:No.... it looked like what brass gets on it when it is really corroded. And... that stuff was proly lurking inside the pilot jet and the cleanings started breaking it down.

That's all I can figure....

I hate cleaning pilot jets. Especially old ones. Is there a trick to it?

On my KLR I could not get it clean no matter how much I soaked it or blew carb cleaner thru it. Took it into the dealer, they blew compressed air into it (thanks :-) and handed it back to me, totally blocked.

In the end I got a new jet and all was well again.

KDX was the same way. I'd get it pretty good, give it one more blast of carb cleaner or air, let that dry and it would be constricted again. I'd have to run plastic line thru it to open it up.

Clearly a job for a nano-technology chimney sweep.

What has been useful to me when I took apart my carb was those little files welders always have with them. (You know the ones they use to clean the tip of their welding/cutting torches ...)

It workrd great when I had to use them !

Every pilot jet I've checked for 'clarity' has been plugged up. I don't know if it's the holes on the sides or the shape of the egress but I just don't see through 'em at all.

That makes it real easy for them to be plugged up and not know it.

As soft as brass is, I don't know that I'd want to attack it with a metal file....maybe a drill bit?

Ron Black had mentioned in a post to me that guitar strings work well for jets and carb passages.

My current jetting:

G-D-DEK/4-TV7

(Using an 11-52 set)

9-42's man myself! 'course...that'd be 'lectric on a Dean Flying V!