KDXRIDER.NET

Suggestions on how it will change my jetting?
Fmf silencer & gnarly pipe, boyesen dual stage reeds, airbox opened slightly. Instead of removing top, I added a second smaller snorkel because of environmental concerns.
Average elevation here in Alabama is 500’.

I am hesitant to make the change because I like what I have so much, but I got the v force kit at cost and I hear about how great it is. I currently never foul plugs or overheat no matter how slow or aggressive I am riding(decent bit of both) and the power is good and smooth right off the bottom. Maybe a little lacking in the mid range. I just put my gold valves and springs in the front bud have the rear spring coming. I can only assume I will be going even faster with the suspension upgraded.

I have a V-Force3 on my '97 220 with a Lectron carb & RB head. It runs incredibly well.
I had Boyesen reeds in the stock cage on my '99 220 with stock carb. The cylinder was pretty worn out on that bike so I can't really compare, although that bike was definitely down on power considerably even with a fresh top end two years before I temporarily retired it for a full rebuild.
I have a Boyesen RAD Valve on my wife's KTM 200 XC-W, which also runs awesome. PWK36 AG Air Striker carb.

I have a Boyesen RAD Valve slated for my next KDX220 full engine rebuild also.
I really prefer them over the Moto Tassinari VForce3 based on the construction, the aluminum portions will never wear out and you don't need a proprietary KDX intake manifold like stock or the stock manifold which is required for the V-Force setups.
I've heard a few instances of poor running conditions traced back to the V-Force reed block plastic framework cracking, especially for those who see rapid temperature changes when running hard climbing up to high altitude, where it is much colder.

What I'm curious about, is the difference between the V-Force3 and the newer V-Force4 which is available for our bikes now as of the past year or so. This may be why you got yours at near wholesale cost.