KDXRIDER.NET

CALLING ON ALL ELECTRICAL GURUs

I have a 1989 E Series KDX200, missing the headlight and aftermarket taillight. Wiring is a mess to say the least.

I have combed the forum looking for a clean instruction on getting a good performing headlight to the "sometime" use and to make the bike complete.

Not partial to any system set-up but do not want to touch the stator.

1. Headlight choice that keeps the Stock look but does not break the bank. Was thinking LED, as this is what powers most aftermarket.
a. Power consumption (?)
2. Addition of a rectifier/regulator?
a. 1989 E series did not come with a regulator, but it appears this addition is a good idea.
b. Do I buy any old 4 wire? What brand model?
3. Not against the adding a battery if it help s system function just unsure if i need it.
a. If I add a battery, what brand model - I see some used a 12v/8300mah

Basically I need a little guidance on wiring a headlight/taillight for limited use in lowlight conditions (offroad only) What parts to use, diagrams etc. Many diagrams on here but confusion on which one actual works for the E series.

THANK YOU !!!!!

To get to the OEM setup, simply find a regulator from an E or H series KDX200, KDX220R or early KLX300 up to 2007 (p/n 21066-1072) and then add it to your stock wiring as shown in the diagram. This will give you a functioning headlight/taillight. If using incandescent bulbs keep in mind that they will be dimmer at idle than when riding. If using LEDs they will flicker noticeably at idle, but get better when riding.

If you add a battery then you need to touch the stator to float the ground (ala Baja Designes setup).
T

So I only need a 2 wire regulator. What are the 4 wire regulator/rectifers for...smoothing out the flicker on LED systems?

They have a rectifier for making DC voltage which is then fed to the battery for charging and lighting, the stock setup is AC voltage which is why the lights get dimmer at idle (the frequency is lower). If you add a 4 wire rectifier you have to isolate the stator from the frame and run all your grounds to the battery (-) instead of the frame. If all you want is an occasional headlight for those times you get stuck on a trail late, the OEM setup works just fine.