Lighting coil output
Posted: 02:50 pm May 25 2006
Can anyone tell me what the voltage output on a stock 99 KDX200 is? am busy looking into a DS kit for the bike
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
Page 1 of 2
Posted: 03:06 pm May 25 2006
35w
Posted: 07:08 pm May 26 2006
damn, baja des said i shouldn't need to rewind it to run their kit but they also said it would work better if i did get it done. Dont they run off like 75w?
Posted: 07:10 pm May 26 2006
If you are running anything other than stock KDX equipment... It will need rewound. 
Posted: 01:41 am May 27 2006
damn o well, gotta do what i gotta do if i wanna ride on the street
Posted: 01:51 am May 27 2006
You'll pick up a little more low end pull and stall resistance with a high output lighting coil as well.
Posted: 09:54 am May 27 2006
My lighting coil spits out around 24 - 30 Volts AC depends as well if you rev it it will top 30V
Posted: 11:12 am May 30 2006
re: 'My lighting coil spits out ..'
Probably not.
Maybe you are measuring it incorrectly? If not, you have a problem.
But...if not...all your lights are blowed up, too.
Wait...you have a non-regulated bike?
Either way, a 12V light will not run on 30V. Not long enough anyway!
Probably not.
Maybe you are measuring it incorrectly? If not, you have a problem.
But...if not...all your lights are blowed up, too.
Wait...you have a non-regulated bike?
Either way, a 12V light will not run on 30V. Not long enough anyway!
Posted: 06:37 pm May 30 2006
Your probably right CC...
Posted: 06:58 pm May 30 2006
But it WILL be BRIGHT while it's on!
Posted: 09:39 am Jun 01 2006
Wait do you mean it will be bright if i rewind the stator or right now?canyncarvr wrote:But it WILL be BRIGHT while it's on!
Posted: 09:45 am Jun 01 2006
He means your bulb will be very bright for the 120 milliseconds it takes to burn out at that voltage.
Posted: 10:51 am Jun 01 2006
Notice that light bulbs are rated only with voltage, but not current? You don't see, '12VDC/3 amps'. Such a listing indicates that the bulb will draw three amps, but the amperage (current) isn't a factor in the specification of the bulb.
You can't make a working light bulb take more current than it wants to. Take all the power that Bonneville (a power plant on the Columbia River) can put out, hook up one 60W light bulb...and it will just light up like it's supposed to. The fact that there are a few brazillion amps available from Bonneville doesn't mean they are all going to try to go through that one bulb.
Voltage is listed on bulbs because, unlike current, it does matter.
Ever see a common household light bulb listed as 'long life'? Chances are it is rated at 130 volts. It WILL last longer than your average 120 volt rated bulb...but look at the output (lumens). The 130V bulb puts out LESS light than the 120V bulb!
Just as an 'overrated' voltage bulb puts out LESS light (measured in lumens) than a 'correctly' rated bulb, so does an underrated bulb put out MORE light than a 'correctly' rated bulb.
And...as the overrated bulb lasts longer, the underrated bulb will last a SHORTER time.
The output of the KDX lighting system is over 12 volts...kind'a like your car, IT'S output is considerably over 12 volts (the rating of all the bulbs in the vehicle) too.
Obviously a supply voltage 5% over spec won't immediately blow up stuff. But....put 30 volts on a 12 volt spec bulb? It will light up...more of a flash bulb kind'a thing.
...if you've ever even seen a flash bulb? Yanno...like Blue Dot Cubes?
Or:
The reason the KDX light coil cannot run 70 watts of stuff (lights or otherwise) is because it cannot supply the current required at the voltage specified. At 35 watts into 12 volts you get approximately 3 amps (P=IE..Power=Current times Voltage..3Ax12V=36W). As soon as you put more than a 3 amp load on the system, the voltage starts to drop.
And what happens with the voltage drops below the rating of the bulb? As noted above...its output is reduced, it gets less bright. More dim, even!
BTW...the output of the lighting coil is a function of the thickness of the wire used and the number of wraps there are around the pole pieces. Said coil is 'excited' by the magnetic field of the rotor (measured in Gauss) that rotates around the coil. The two coil factors work closely together. If you use 1/2" thick wire, you will have a large current capability, but you don't have enough room to put on enough wraps to get 12 volts. How tightly the winding is done also effects the output of the coil. It is possible to remove the existing wire, rewind it 'better' and add another 10 watts to the KDX coil. I wouldn't suggest trying that if you tend to get dipping sauce on your tie when you eat your onion rings at lunch.
Did I mention that I simply bought another coil? I didn't rewind mine.
RickyStator will fix you up with whatever you need...just ask.
If you don't know what a flash cube is, maybe you don't know what a tie is, either?
Now then...about LPs.......
You can't make a working light bulb take more current than it wants to. Take all the power that Bonneville (a power plant on the Columbia River) can put out, hook up one 60W light bulb...and it will just light up like it's supposed to. The fact that there are a few brazillion amps available from Bonneville doesn't mean they are all going to try to go through that one bulb.
Voltage is listed on bulbs because, unlike current, it does matter.
Ever see a common household light bulb listed as 'long life'? Chances are it is rated at 130 volts. It WILL last longer than your average 120 volt rated bulb...but look at the output (lumens). The 130V bulb puts out LESS light than the 120V bulb!
Just as an 'overrated' voltage bulb puts out LESS light (measured in lumens) than a 'correctly' rated bulb, so does an underrated bulb put out MORE light than a 'correctly' rated bulb.
And...as the overrated bulb lasts longer, the underrated bulb will last a SHORTER time.
The output of the KDX lighting system is over 12 volts...kind'a like your car, IT'S output is considerably over 12 volts (the rating of all the bulbs in the vehicle) too.
Obviously a supply voltage 5% over spec won't immediately blow up stuff. But....put 30 volts on a 12 volt spec bulb? It will light up...more of a flash bulb kind'a thing.
...if you've ever even seen a flash bulb? Yanno...like Blue Dot Cubes?
Or:
CM wrote:..your bulb will be very bright for the 120 milliseconds it takes to burn out at that voltage.
The reason the KDX light coil cannot run 70 watts of stuff (lights or otherwise) is because it cannot supply the current required at the voltage specified. At 35 watts into 12 volts you get approximately 3 amps (P=IE..Power=Current times Voltage..3Ax12V=36W). As soon as you put more than a 3 amp load on the system, the voltage starts to drop.
And what happens with the voltage drops below the rating of the bulb? As noted above...its output is reduced, it gets less bright. More dim, even!
BTW...the output of the lighting coil is a function of the thickness of the wire used and the number of wraps there are around the pole pieces. Said coil is 'excited' by the magnetic field of the rotor (measured in Gauss) that rotates around the coil. The two coil factors work closely together. If you use 1/2" thick wire, you will have a large current capability, but you don't have enough room to put on enough wraps to get 12 volts. How tightly the winding is done also effects the output of the coil. It is possible to remove the existing wire, rewind it 'better' and add another 10 watts to the KDX coil. I wouldn't suggest trying that if you tend to get dipping sauce on your tie when you eat your onion rings at lunch.
Did I mention that I simply bought another coil? I didn't rewind mine.
RickyStator will fix you up with whatever you need...just ask.
If you don't know what a flash cube is, maybe you don't know what a tie is, either?Now then...about LPs.......
Posted: 02:19 pm Jun 01 2006
AHHHHH i see
Posted: 02:49 pm Jun 01 2006
I put a LED in the tail light yesterday. Now the Headlight is nice & bright again. I was using a 15watt or something like that in the rear instead of the OEM 2,3,4 watt or whatever. Got at autozone for $16 for a pair.
Posted: 04:52 pm Jun 01 2006
hey g.h. do you have the bulb number for led bulb?
Posted: 05:39 pm Jun 01 2006
It's an 1156 bulb style. I've seen them listed (that I've bought) as '1156L'. Anyone working at an auto parts store should know what an 1156 style LED bulb is.
Outfits that make them in different colors/viewing angles and brightness (actual # of LEDs in the unit) will have to denote those specs with something other than an 'L', 'eh?
The LED units I've used didn't stand up to vibration at all...I ended up with lots-a-bits-o-pieces banging around under the taillight lens.
...not that you asked me anything about it...
Outfits that make them in different colors/viewing angles and brightness (actual # of LEDs in the unit) will have to denote those specs with something other than an 'L', 'eh?
The LED units I've used didn't stand up to vibration at all...I ended up with lots-a-bits-o-pieces banging around under the taillight lens.
...not that you asked me anything about it...
Posted: 06:49 pm Jun 01 2006
kewl 
Posted: 07:11 pm Jun 01 2006
1156 type in the LED Style. 1156L (Color)red,white yada, yadarollerman wrote:hey g.h. do you have the bulb number for led bulb?
I noticed it was RED after I bought, but it does luminate fine. I'll see how the vibration effects the bulb. I have to re-seal the lens assembly, so dirt & water is harder to get in. Also, it cuts down on that lens rattle. Carvr has done the same thing. Just let the sealant harden abit before putting the lens on, otherwise it is a PIA to get off.
Posted: 08:04 pm Jun 01 2006
I did the LED Auto Zone light thing for my Harley tail light a couple of years ago - the bulb did not last long on the vibration monster.
Went to Rocky Mountain ATV catalog and ordered one for ATVs and that worked fine for 2500 miles and is still working. (Well I did just replace it with a whole LED taillight assembly only due to the fact that I wanted as much tail light brightness as possible)
Went to Rocky Mountain ATV catalog and ordered one for ATVs and that worked fine for 2500 miles and is still working. (Well I did just replace it with a whole LED taillight assembly only due to the fact that I wanted as much tail light brightness as possible)