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Hi everyone,

I'm pretty new to working on bikes however I am trying to get the crank back in the bearing/case.
Been doing the heat/freeze method. Main bearings went in smoothly.

I froze the crankshaft for over 24 hours but unfortunately I don't think I got the case/bearing hot enough (baked in oven at 250, thought that would be enough but was probably overly cautious about the seals)....and now the crank is stuck about 3/4 of the way down into the bearing.

How can I properly get the crank seated all the way?

To my understanding a crank pulling tool will not work on that side of the engine. I have only seen heat/freeze done to get crank installed and can't find any threads on if the crank didn't seat all the way....

Found this YouTube video where he is in fact using a crank pulling tool.



Maybe just a piece of aluminum with hole cut in it....with that up against the case I can use the puller....?

Appreciate any help!!

Thank you!

I’ve always had luck with a crank puller tool.

Crank puller works every time. If you dont have a big plate with a hole in it, the puller comes with a couple square rods to use instead.

Thank you guys for the responses!!

I have a puller from ebay but unfortunately it didn't come with the rods.

Also it didn't have the right size "adapter" so I will have to figure that out too.

I'm in the process of getting a piece of aluminum and just gonna cut a hole in it I think.

Next time will get the bearing/case hotter, that's for sure!

A bit of a hack way to make a crank puller, which I have used myself, is to use a stack of heavy thick washers and/or a very short piece of aluminum or steel pipe, and the nut normally used on the side you're pulling. Install the washers/pipe over the shaft to where it's just above the bottom of the threads and then crank the nut on. Remove nut, add another washer, and repeat until the crank is seated. I did this once even using extra trans gears I had laying around!

Improvised on some "rods" and had to grind a spare nut down to use as an adapter for the puller.

I believe crank is seated all the way but worried about one of the seals now. Looks like crankshaft kinda pushed out the inner lip on the seal a bit on one side.... Don't like the looks of it!
Hopefully don't have to press crank & bearings back out...
Any ideas or comments on this....?

It looks like the end of the crank ( or more likely the locating pin for the water pump gear) caught the edge of the seal and folded it over. You may be able to use a seal saver (basically a thin piece of plastic) to massage it back in but you do risk nicking the seal lip, preferred way would be to split the case again.

bufftester wrote: 07:39 pm Oct 26 2022 It looks like the end of the crank ( or more likely the locating pin for the water pump gear) caught the edge of the seal and folded it over. You may be able to use a seal saver (basically a thin piece of plastic) to massage it back in but you do risk nicking the seal lip, preferred way would be to split the case again.

Thank you! Didn't think bout that water pump gear pin.....Dammit!

Would greasing the crankshaft possibly eliminate the catching next time?
Or anything else I can do to avoid that?

Just before I read your comment I used a soft piece of plastic to work the inner lip of the seal back in. Surprisingly went in smoothly and now it all looks normal.

Not sure what to do at this point

Assemble, but pressure/ vacuum test before running?

I would not attempt to run it with that seal like that.

He already poked it back in.

if it went back in and didn't take much force you're probably good. A quick leak down test will verify it once it's back together.

My concern is could there have been a chance since so much of that inner lip been pushed out from catching on the pin the spring might have come off also ??

Alright....thinking bout making a leak down tester to see whats up with it!

Or maybe just gonna go straight to pressing crank back out & start over. Have new seals ordered & on the way. Don't have a press of my own so will need to go back to a friend's place. Definitely want to do it properly!

Kinda just learning my way thru this whole thing though....having a good o'l time!



On the next set of seals (if needed).....what's the trick to not folding/deforming the inner lips when crank goes through??
I lightly greased the crank shaft & inside of the seal.
Only thing I can think of is I was working in a 50 degree garage and maybe seal was kinda stiff...?

Just use a good amount of grease on the seal lips and the crank. Try a touch of raw premix oil if you'd prefer. I've always had luck with grease.

Is there a way to get the crank out without a press?

KC93 wrote: 10:31 pm Oct 30 2022 Is there a way to get the crank out without a press?

Use a case splitter. You shouldn't be using a press on a crankshaft. Can knock it out of true if not done properly.

Slick_Nick wrote: 08:05 am Oct 31 2022

KC93 wrote: 10:31 pm Oct 30 2022 Is there a way to get the crank out without a press?

Use a case splitter. You shouldn't be using a press on a crankshaft. Can knock it out of true if not done properly.

Thanks man! Will try that

I appreciate the help!

Thanks again Nick!

Crank came out smooth!

Spring on seal did pop off so glad I'm starting over.

Now hopefully I can do em right this time!

Yep that thing works a treat! You can also use it with a bearing separator to pull those crank bearings back off the crank for re installation.