KDXRIDER.NET

Hello guys,
I am starting to work on my newly acquired 220. Compression is 145-150. Leak test was good. I need to open it to look at why the KIPS don’t work and see piston and cylinder condition.
First step is removing the engine and I now have removed every engine mounts and the pivot bolt (followed cyclepedia manual) and I was expecting the engine to be quite loose at this point but it is not. It looks like it is quite tight between the swing arm in the back. I can move it if I pull quite hard from the head bracket but it only rotates a bit in the pivot. It is weird. I’ll stop for tonight but I’m about to remove the shock and swingarm. It will come out! Anyone had this issue or is there a trick I miss?
Thanks.

Nah, they can fit in there quite tight. Removing the swingarm definitely helps, though.

You should probably remove the swingarm anyway to clean/check or (probably) replace them.

Thanks guys. Got it. Here is what I see now. Not much of a surprise but it looks like I’ll need to go deeper! Crank seal leaking. Splitting the case was not something I wanted to do. I may find someone to do it along with a crank rebuild. You’ll also see a shot of the piston and cylinder. Has a slight score I feel with my nails above the exhaust port. Needs a replate? Compression was good but I think I’ll get it replated. As mentionned in another post, this cylinder was honed. More pics to come when I have the chance to get back in the garage.

Not sure where you are, but I’m in Calgary. I do crank rebuilds so I can help you out, would give a deal to a fellow KDX’r. Might save you shipping and duty over the border!

Don't forget...that KIPS pawl thingy is left hand thread....

Thanks Nick! I am in Montreal. Not sure what shipping would be. I am now deeper and confirm there is no up or down play on the rod bearing. I might keep the crank as is but I’ll have to split the case anyway to replace the seals and that is a job that I’ve never done before so I will read and decide! I have no press to press the bearing in and to push the crank inside the bearings as well. Seen guys heating it with a slug…I’ll see! In the meantime I found what’s wrong with the kips. I think it is KDXgarage that guessed it right as the actuator pin at the bottom of the shaft is broken. Previous owner messed up when they did the top end. I now wonder where that pin went!! It is winter here and I only was able to drive the bike inside a garage in 1st gear. I did not try to shift it in a stand (my bad). Should I fear further damages from that pin I did not find? Another question: can you point me where that spacer I hold in my hand goes? It felt when I took the cover off. Kickstart shaft?

That KIPS governor pin breaking is a common issue since it’s a left hand nut. Easily replaced.

I’ll be in Montreal on Wednesday night, if you could meet me downtown on Thursday, I could bring it home with me and save you on shipping one way. Just ask you to bag it for me so it doesn’t make my clothes all oily! ;)

Wow Nick I will strongly consider that. Are you talking about only the crank or the full bottom end rebuild?
I still don’t see how to send a PM on this forum!
I’d like to have a chat over the phone so we can arrange that.
I am back from a one week vacation tomorrow and it will probably be kind of a crazy week so I’ll start to make some room for Thursday.

BTW I found the pin. It is actually visible on the picture on my previous post in the bottom right under the shift forks. It looks like it did some marks on the main shaft gear but I did not see anything major yet.

Coming back on my previous post, any idea on where that little spacer goes. That’s the only thing I cannot reposition at the moment.

Not to hijack your thread but you asked the question...

PMs are available for Forum participants who support the website monetarily.

Here's the link about donating: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=15658 After donating, the PM function is activated by some dude in the clouds somewhere.

Sadly, not everyone donates...some folks use the site extensively but never feel the urge to donate.

However, this website is the premier source of collegial sharing of KDX knowledge...hands down!

Disclaimer: I am a former KDX owner.

More than ready to support but I don’t see any PayPal buttons!

KrispyKDX wrote: 06:36 am Mar 07 2022 More than ready to support but I don’t see any PayPal buttons!

Go to this page app.php/donate and look for the gold button near the bottom that says "Donate" on it.

The spacer looks like its from the kickstart like you guessed. Mine stayed on the engine cover when I removed it and thankfully saw it before it fell to the floor.

I think you need to be a supporting member to send a PM. I could leave room in my bag for your crank, the whole bottom end might be a bit of a stretch. Are you comfortable splitting the cases and pulling the crank out? Its almost child's play if you have the service manual. The KDX engine and transmission are very straightforward.

As far as the bearings go, you don't need a press, in fact I reccomend not using one. I've seen people press too hard and snap their engine cases. The bearings can drop in using the heat/freeze method, and the crank can be reinstalled with a crank puller easily.

If you're able, send me a PM and we can discuss it further. There are lots of connecting rod kits available.

Thanks Nick. I won’t have the crank out this week. I’m in need of a case splitter (as said I was hoping not to do it!). But wait….maybe I can try to pry it open right? With a good hammer it will somehow open right?
Seriously I will take my time to tear it, mark and note everything and order my parts. As for the crank there is no play in it. I might just change seals and bearings.

SS109 wrote: 08:06 am Mar 07 2022

KrispyKDX wrote: 06:36 am Mar 07 2022 More than ready to support but I don’t see any PayPal buttons!

Go to this page app.php/donate and look for the gold button near the bottom that says "Donate" on it.

Thanks. Here is what I get following your link. (Tried on my PC and Phone).

Sorry about that. I don't know why the permissions for that page are messed up. I'll have Julien D look at it.

Anyway, here's a direct Paypal link: https://www.paypal.com/donate?token=K-t ... WfW1kQP-kZ

E-mail Julien D.

Thanks!

KrispyKDX wrote: 10:42 am Mar 07 2022 Thanks Nick. I won’t have the crank out this week. I’m in need of a case splitter (as said I was hoping not to do it!). But wait….maybe I can try to pry it open right? With a good hammer it will somehow open right?
Seriously I will take my time to tear it, mark and note everything and order my parts. As for the crank there is no play in it. I might just change seals and bearings.

No problem! I'm in Montreal a couple times a month so maybe another day will work out better if you still want to have me rebuild it.

Hello all,
Here is an update and the trouble I may be in right now!
I sent my cylinder for a replate and did order a lot of parts from the dealer for the rebuild.
I finally had some time tonight and got back at it. I did split the case but, let me tell you, it was tough…it was actually splitting first on the output shaft side (opposite to where I was pushing on the crank). I started to fear some might have used locktite or inappropriate bond in a previous rebuild since I have noticed red locktite in a couple of places (cylinder studs) so I did heat the joint between the two halves around the crank and it literally popped! It did not split smoothly at all since every turn or so on the splitter bolt it would pop a little more until it eventually split. To my surprise the crank bearing stayed on the shaft! See picture below. I have a couple of 3 jaw puller but there is no way I have room to grab it from behind. Anyone has an idea to help here? I will sleep on it but I am quite confused at the moment to say the least.