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Had a previous post breaking my actuator and finally was able to get a replacement however; I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the darn clutch cover back on and get the actuator in the correct position to let me do so. By looking at the clutch diagram it seems when it's on the little inlet notch at the bottom should be facing the bike but my clutch cover will not go back on. This is how I broke it last time and it's a miracle I was able to find a new one. I've tightened the clutch spring bolts to spec and the push pin is in place with one washer.

It seems this is the correct position but it will not sit flush against the case. I messed with it for a good hour or two playing with the actuator and finagling with the case cover to get it to sit flush but nothing. It just won't go on.



Everytime I install It always seems to go to this position and it's the only way I can seem to get the case over back on. If I try to pull it towards the engine when I've bolted it on to connect it to the clutch cable it gets super tight and I feel like I'm going to break it...I don't know if I should keep pulling it..until it goes into place?



I believe this is the correct position below when installing and when the actuator is on the bike..correct?


I feel this shouldn't be this hard! Any ideas on how to get this darn thing back on??

Here’s a pic that I had available that shows the orientation of the arm and the spring. Let me know if you need a better pic.

Did you disconnect the clutch cable from the perch??

The way you have it installed without the cable looks correct. At about the 8:00 position. From there it should swivel freely to about the 10-11:00 position. Loosen the clutch cable at the adjustment barrel and the perch or like KDX said remove the cable from the perch. Then connect it to the release arm, at the perch, and adjust the cable as needed.

If after bolting it on it won’t swing freely from that second pictures position then don’t force it. Something else is going on.

If the second pic is right then definitely something is wrong. I can't swing it to the 10-11 position without excessive force and I'll definitely break it. I took the basket out and one thing thats confusing from the 96' clutch diagram (see the blue arrows in the below pic) is that it appears that I need two steel "separator" (probably wrong terminology) plates against each other after the first friction plate that goes inside the basket. Is that correct? Also..I've got 8 friction plates...the manual only shows 3?



If that's correct, then I've got the plates in wrong. Also I believe the last friction plate goes in the grooved notches at the top. Is that correct?



Appreciate the help from this swingin' d*ck mechanic!

You don't need those judder springs. Most guys just chuck them out.

If it's a new clutch, make sure you have the correct amount of adjustment washers on the pushrod. Usually you'll need none for a new clutch. The adjustment washer procedure will be laid out in your service manual.

Thanks Nick.

I had one washer on the push rod. It sounds like I should give it a whirl without any since it's new. Can you confirm that my clutch setup looks good? The manual is confusing and I am not sure if I need two of those steel plates together on the first friction plate.

8 friction
7 metal

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawas ... -h2/clutch

Look at the quantities to order in the boxes.

Looks like I've got it all setup correctly. I've checked, rechecked and double checked that I've got all the components of the clutch in place. It always reverts to that 7-8 position and I can get it to the 9-10 but if I try and go further it won't butch..I feel if I push it any further it's going to break. The only thing I can of think of is the clutch springs are to tight? Of course I can't find the old springs to try.

Uh oh, Fellow old timers see where this is going...

Did you buy EBC brand clutch springs?

Are these OEM parts or non-OEM parts? I guess that should have been mentioned in post one.

Didn’t even think of that. EBC is no bueno

Ya the clutch kit I am using is an EBC. Definitely going to order some OEM stock springs. This project turned into a nightmare!

All righty then

DenverKdxRider wrote: 11:56 am Jun 07 2021 Ya the clutch kit I am using is an EBC. Definitely going to order some OEM stock springs. This project turned into a nightmare!

Glad we got that sorted out! Those EBC kits are fit for the bin!

WOW! Just read through this string and learned at the very end I dodged a bullet last week by not ordering the EBC clutch kit for my bike! So is it their springs that are the problem?

Just from reading, I think the issue is the length.

Yes, the springs are the issue. I think it's a combination of length along with coil thickness.

So if we leave the washers on the pushrod and installed with the new clutch, what is different about the performance? What would I notice?

MoonStomper wrote: 10:43 am Jun 12 2021 So if we leave the washers on the pushrod and installed with the new clutch, what is different about the performance? What would I notice?

Do you need the washers? You should be adjusting the clutch as per the service manual. Or else it'll either slip constantly or never disengage.

Slick_Nick wrote: 08:11 pm Jun 12 2021

MoonStomper wrote: 10:43 am Jun 12 2021 So if we leave the washers on the pushrod and installed with the new clutch, what is different about the performance? What would I notice?

Do you need the washers? You should be adjusting the clutch as per the service manual. Or else it'll either slip constantly or never disengage.

I concur, sir!