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Right side KIPS rod part 46102a is stuck and won’t budge. I have tried heat, penetrating oils, freeze off etc and can’t get it out. Very frustrated since the whole bike came apart easily and this seems like it is welded in there. I did find the previous thread where the poster had the same problem and welded a slide hammer to it get it out!!! What would even cause this, the other side came right out, I know the right side has an o ring but man the thing is stuck. Finding a new barrel is next to impossible so not sure what I can do??? Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Some previous owner(s) let it go too long without maintenance. Two-stroke power valve systems need to be maintained. Some people neglect them. It is not a Kawasaki problem or a KDX problem, but an ignorant or scared people problem.

Do this with the cylinder held in a way it won't move. First, I would try heating just the aluminum all the way around the rod. Then, while still hot, wedging a screw driver inline with the teeth and try tapping the screwdriver with a hammer in the direction of pushing it out. You should have two access points to the teeth on the rod. I would try the side first and through the KIPS sub-valve hole only if necessary. If that doesn't work, then maybe try driving it in a little further just to break whatever bond is holding it. Keep us updated!

Yeah it's got to be all carbon'd up. Try some heat and wiggle it back and forth. As you break that carbon off you've got to go back in to let the grot clear out of the way.

I’m going to try putting it in the freezer then heating the cylinder today so we’ll see how that goes. I’m also wondering if the was damage done to the actuator arm which runs down into the case by the clutch since the rod was clearly stuck and wasn’t moving? I haven’t taken anything apart yet to see, I know there is a pin in the arm which can come out as others have mentioned on many other threads. Thanks for the ideas I’ll keep you posted.

No luck with freezing then heating. I broke the top of the right exhaust valve trying to grab it with pliers and put some pressure on it. It broke surprisingly easy. I am considering an OEM cylinder. It’ll cost me 300 at least to get this one replated so I’m already half way there price wise. I can’t believe carbon could make this thing this stuck. There has to be something else going on. I’m kinda pissed considering the previous owner said runs perfect. I made sure it ran and shifted before buying it, I didn’t ride it for any length of time and really ring it out. Lesson learned I guess!

He may have thought it ran well. It is not always someone tricking a buyer.

I would take it to a shop if it was that much trouble.

A replated cylinder that has no issues is going to have better plating than Electrofusion.

Yeah I don’t think the previous owner was trying to hide it. Damn near new top end though so someone had been in there recently, and should have noticed the KIPS not working when disassembling. I think your right though on the plating. It’ll be much better than a new cylinder with electro fusion. I’m gonna call around today.

Looks like in the photo, the teeth are mechanically wedged in there, stuck, like jammed rather than buildup. Hard to tell from the pick though. I've not been in there yet.

I bet I could get that out without destroying the cylinder or the KIPS rod. Are you near Tucson, AZ by any chance?

Wish I was near you but I’m not. The center gear fits the teeth pretty well but there is a little play in between. You maybe right, it may be jammed somehow because this thing will not budge. I’m going to take it to a shop here locally tomorrow so we’ll see.

The gap between the parts is filled with carbon I assume.

Don't let E-Z Off oven cleaner set on aluminum for a few minutes. It will eat aluminum.

I haven’t gone the easy off route yet just just oil penetrants, heat and a freezer! With the way the rest of the KIPS system looked it’s hard to believe carbon would be causing this but maybe the right side builds carbon quicker?

I would come at the teeth with a pointed air chisel and try to drive them out. Those things are like an impact gun for a straight line, I bet that'll bust it loose.

x2 on the air hammer/chisel. They always win.

It’s hard to get a straight shot onto the teeth though. You end up with a lot of the force being exerted upwards towards the cavity the rod goes into. I have tried getting it to move that way and have broken the lower portions of the very front tooth in the rod. That section is split in half from the front though so it is not a great spot to put some leverage on, I’ve tried further back as well. It is flat stuck! I’m taking it by a shop tomorrow though, we’ll see what they think.

Do you have a cordless impact driver? Meaning one for driving screws not for taking lug nuts off. I would try to put a standard screw driver bit on one and come at it from the front where theres a slot and slowly impact it to see if you can get it spinning in the barrel.
I’d go easy on it and keep switching back and forth between tightening and loosening.

That picture is throwing me off. I remember mine being flatter at the front with a straight slot. I wonder if it’s installed backwards. The front of the shaft being rounded looks like the back of the shaft.

I have tried working it back and forth from the front using a screw driver not an impact though. I figured I would break the end, I might as well give that a shot though.

At this point, I'd be most concerned about not damaging the cylinder itself. The rod can be replaced. Weld a smaller bolt to the end of it, and use a slide hammer to yank it out. Welding has the added benefit of shrinking the rod so it will come out more easily.

Well part of it came out but at this point I think I am SOL. I am wondering now if maybe coolant had gotten in there and then it just sat.