KDXRIDER.NET

I've come to terms with the fact that I don't have enough free/riding time to advance my clutch skills where I'd like. To help get past this hurdle I've decided to head down the path of the hybrid rekluse setup I've seen executed by others on here.

The only issue that's still open ended is if others have used the stock clutch pressure plate springs on reassembly. I'm only fixating on it because most rekluse kits seem to include new springs.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Why not just send your clutch to Gary at EFM? I think that would be way easier than building the hybrid Rekluse, Those plans don't exist on the web anymore as far as I know. I have both the EFM and was lucky enough to score the Rekluse from another member. I prefer the EFM. Support from Gary is unbelievable.

I'm not comfortable with the elimination of the clutch lever as an escape hatch for some unforeseen situation.

I had the bike hang wide open from an air leak once to the point even the kill switch wouldn't shut it down.

It scared the hell out of me I was lucky to kill it before the engine blew up by getting it in 5th and dumping the clutch. The EFM would continue sending power to the rear wheel in this scenario if my understanding is correct.

In the situation you describe of a runaway engine, the Rekluse would continue to put power to the rear wheel also. The presence of the clutch lever only allows you to fan the clutch to build rpm, like coming out of a corner in too low of a gear perhaps. I've had an EFM on my 220 for some time now and really like it. It does, as you mentioned, compensate for my lack of clutch control.
I second the support from Gary at EFM. Top quality customer service even though I bought mine used.

I hve the rekluse setup for the KDX written down if you want it. The process to build it is not the easiest in the world, but I have always liked the way it works. I also had the left hand rear brake, cause I'm a LAZY old man, I guess! I can send the steps to build it by posting it here or another way if you let me know.

Oldmankdx69 any info you can get me would be great, just my user name @gmail would get it to me.

Are you able to confirm what doakley had said about the clutch lever? If you are sitting with the bike in gear and lever pulled in does it still move when RPM is increased? If so I severely misunderstood some of what I have been reading about rekluse systems.

The way mine was setup I could blip the throttle with the clutch lever pulled in abd it was like normal. I will work on getting you the info asap. Be patient with me, okay?

oldmankdx69 wrote: 11:21 am Jan 28 2021 I hve the rekluse setup for the KDX written down if you want it. The process to build it is not the easiest in the world, but I have always liked the way it works. I also had the left hand rear brake, cause I'm a LAZY old man, I guess! I can send the steps to build it by posting it here or another way if you let me know.

Considering this info isn't readily available, I think starting a thread on doing a Rekluse conversion on the KDX would be awesome info for future users who might want to do the same.

I will document the process as thoroughly as I can (possibly video). The used clutch assembly just came in the mail today and the basket is toast. I wanted a separate assembly so if I hate it I can easily go back and just suffer with my lack of skill. I have a used Hinson 01 YZ125 basket on the way.

First important note: I spoke with someone at Hinson today as I will need to remove a yz125 gear from the used basket. They supply or instruct the use of red loctite on the bolts connecting these parts. In my experience red loctite requires heat to remove. I found some literature saying 550f was the prescribed temperature for removal of red loctite but was concerned that this may hurt the annealing of the hinson product. They confirmed that they only recommend heating to 400f to avoid this possibility. I'll use a laser surface temp gun and report back on success or failure of this step.

Oldmankdx69 -- as much as I want to move the project forward we're a few months from riding anything but the sled here so I can be patient

All--
Would a new thread singularly focused on the process be preferred to continuing this one?

Also would you like to see periodic updates through the process or one continuous write up on the entire process once complete?

Hell, do both. We have space for many words and a few pictures.

Build two. Then you can sell one.

We'll see how successful 1 is before getting too ambitious. The other obstacle is that stock baskets for harvesting gears and center sections seem to be in short supply.

I've made it through what I consider to be the first step of the process by disassembling the gear from both the used baskets. The Hinson YZ basket was considerably more difficult as a result of the small fastener size and red loctite. The 1/8 Allen heads promptly stripped even with liberal application of heat. Ultimately heat and an impact driver with a similarly sized torques bit (t20) was how I got them removed. The KDX donor simply had the rivets drilled off and the assembly came free.

I see two obvious machining operations that need done at this point. There is a raised boss on the gear side of the YZ basket that will need to be machined down enough for the KDX gear bushing boss to reach through almost flush with the inside surface of the basket. This works out to around .070 material removed on this particular basket.
The second obstacle is the clearance between the ID of the YZ basket and the OD of the KDX gear bushing boss. A spacer ring will have to be made to fill this void ultimately keeping the basket and hub centered to one another. Both the YZ and the KDX were slip fit between the gear and basket so I don't anticipate too much trouble making a useable spacer. I may make it a press fit on the KDX gear then size it until it slip fits the the basket.

decluk13 wrote: 02:53 pm Jan 28 2021 Oldmankdx69 any info you can get me would be great, just my user name @gmail would get it to me.

Are you able to confirm what doakley had said about the clutch lever? If you are sitting with the bike in gear and lever pulled in does it still move when RPM is increased? If so I severely misunderstood some of what I have been reading about rekluse systems.

That's NOT at all what I said. If you are sitting still with the clutch lever pulled in, the Rekluse system should NOT allow power to the wheel and the bike should not move. However, if you are riding and your throttle sticks, power WILL still be delivered to the rear wheel. You can pull in the clutch to stop the power to the wheel but then you will likely blow the engine if you have a true runaway condition. That is, I believe, the original question.
Don't know if I misunderstood you or you misunderstood me. Hope that helps though.

I misunderstood you. And yes I agree it would likely blow the engine in that instance. My thought was that while the engine may blow I would be more likely to remain uninjured and able to rebuild said blown engine if I can cut power to the wheel.

That being said... I've never operated one of these. What would be the result of putting the bike in high gear and stomping on the brakes at high rpm? Does it bring the rpm down until the clutch begins to slip?

I'm not doubting anyone's experience or opinion. I'm going to head down this road and if it doesn't work out at least I'll learn some things. Might wind up going back to stock, might wind up contacting EFM, might work out as a trick 1 off piece.

This Hinson YZ125 basket with the raised lip machined so the gear can sit flat. There is a recess in the YZ gear this fits into. This is the space between the Hinson basket and KDX gear that must be corrected. This shows the bushing that was made to correct the fit between the gear and basket. Wainting on delivery of rekluse disc and YZ frictions.

That clutch basket looks good. Be sure to check your clearance between the basket and the water pump gear once it is installed. It will rub. To answer your question about the running in high gear and stomping on brakes, if it is set up properly it should bring rpms down until the rekluse releases the clutch. That is what it is designed to do. You should be able to use clutch lever as normal if you want, but when you stop without pulling in lever, the clutch should disengage like you did pull it in. Again, if it is set up properly. FYI, when you set up your "free-play", the adjustment on the cable is very sensitive. You should only have to adjust the cable 1/8 turn at a time until you get the right feel. This changes as your clutch wears. so you need to check it often. Seems like a lot of trouble, but it was always worth it to me. I really enjoyed my set up. Good nluck!!!

After waiting for new allen head screws for the clutch basket I finally got back to this project this week. Bringing the gear boss flush with the inside of the basket left the clutch pack sitting too high while using the original hardened washer between the inner clutch hub and basket sleeve. I took the thickness of the original washer down from ~ .095" to .025" and took .050" off the back of the inner clutch hub to bring the top friction disc fingers flush with the basket. I removed the boss from the clutch pressure plate in order to gain another .050" margin before there would be interference with the basket. Lastly I did an embarrassingly poor job clearancing for the water pump gear. After all of this was done and assembled together the stack height from to end of splines on the inner hub is about .135" less than the original clutch. This means the pushrod is past 90degrees of rotation before it starts acting on the pressure plate. I have an assortment of 10mm ID spacers on the way tomorrow to move the pushrod out closer to the clutch cover.

Awesome info. Thanks for keeping us updated!