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so I'm trying to change my rear wheel bearings.

How do i remove the axle? I have removed the right side axle nut and washer.

Do i have to remove the left side nut and washer too? Because my left axle nut is welded to the adjuster thing. Is this normal?


Tried banging the axle out from the right side(brake side) and it won't budge. Tried loosening the other side but its welded to the adjuster thing.

Yea, the chain adjuster is welded to the one side of the axle. Just push it thru from the opposide side. If it won't budge, try hitting the one side with a mallet, being sure to not damage the threads, while at the same time rotating the other side (with the chain adjuster welded to it) with a wrench to help work it free.

The left side is welded to the chain adjuster, as Tyl3r mentioned.

Use a brass drift if you have one.

Very common problem on bikes that aren't maintained and see a lot of wet riding. Spray some penetrant oil around the axle spacers/bearings. Then a brass punch and a big hammer, or screw the nut on so its flush with the end of the axle and a block of wood and a big hammer. when you reassemble it, lube it generously, and then maintain it.

bufftester wrote: 06:10 pm Oct 05 2020 Very common problem on bikes that aren't maintained and see a lot of wet riding. Spray some penetrant oil around the axle spacers/bearings. Then a brass punch and a big hammer, or screw the nut on so its flush with the end of the axle and a block of wood and a big hammer. when you reassemble it, lube it generously, and then maintain it.

+1 When going back together, I would coat the axle, including the threaded portion with an anti-seize compound. Go to your local auto parts or hardware store and ask for some Never - Seize.

For pounding out the axle, I would use a raw hide mallet or a soft Clown Hammer. Pounding metal against metal, even brass on steel, is likely to deform the end of the axle and damage the threads. Bufftester's advise about screwing the nut on so it's just flush with the end of the axle is a good way to protect the threads from impact damage.

Be sure to be patient with the penetrating oil. If you think the stuck bearings are a headache, wait until you have outer races stuck in the hub with no ball bearings or inner race because the bearing disintegrated upon a blow from the axle. YIKES!

If you've never used anti-seize before...be careful, it gets EVERYWHERE very quickly lol What you want to use here is a good lithium complex or "waterproof" grease (like Belray's for example). It will work great for most pivot points, joints, seals and bearings on the bike. When using it on the axle, it will also help reduce friction and keep your bearing seals in the wheels happy.