KDXRIDER.NET

Am I gonna F sumthin up removing the nut from the kips shaft on inspection side ?
Trying to be careful here and not in a hurry. Gotta get a piston,, it's an oem 220 that hasn't blown fortunately..
Cyl is on my bench.
All covers removed.
Wanna get the shaft & the rest of it out without breaking..
Hope this is enough info..
Edit: the nut seems like it doesn't want to cooperate..





And BTW.
ROLL TIDE!!

Nevermind, nothing broke.
I'll be back.

Do I have access to load photos?

The nut holding the top lever is LEFT HAND threads!

Yes, you can load photos. Check out my signature.

Cyl. Hasn't been cleaned yet. Just wiped out with rag.
Let's see if this photo works..

I got that actuator rod, left handed, the other side was concerning, didn't want to damage the al valves twisting that nut/ shaft. It's good, if luck was involved I'll take it..

Intake side photo. Looks pitted, but I don't know if that's acceptable or not for this electrofusion deal. I know it had 150 psi, and bone stock. All indications are this is first time the cyl had been removed..

Thoughts? (Little trouble with file size and limited editing on the s9 android)

Haven't experienced this before, or don't remember any spotted, faded look from the old days...
My nikasil beemers look way different of course.

Last pic looks like an upside down ashtray. Smeared aluminum is not a great sign. :-|

Can you catch a nail on anything on the cylinder?

Electrofusion DOES NOT have standard cross-hatching that many are used to in other non-Electrofusion cylinders. I have had two new OEM cylinders with Electrofusion. They just don't have it.

Would certainly rather not re plate if I can get break in a piston&rings for the same performance as it was.

Going to scrub & clean w, scotch pad tmrw ..hope I'm gonna be ok. Can it be de-glazed??
Haven't tried hanging a nail yet..

That looks odd. What year is this KDX / model??

It looks old and worn. Worn out? Not sure from pics.

See the solid gray around the exhaust port in the last pic? That’s aluminum. I’d replate for sure.

Good eye..the shop guy said the same thing..
He's betting the PO did bunch of dry start ups after storage all these years and prob rarely ever serviced the air filter.
Everything is cleaned up..
He recommended millineum.
Hopefully all my junk (and house) won't be blown away here in a few mins!
Thanks bro.. I'll be back.

Millenium is good, so is US Chrome. Looks to be worn as mentioned by others.

Local severe weather event has passed, no damage to life & limb..
So, guess it's time ante-up for Top End.
Appreciate you guys chiming in.
I'll be back to make sure im performing assembly to perfection.
Question:
When assembling the kips shaft & tightening the nut on the left side gear, (72 in lbs?). And, is there a risk of stripping the al valve actuator gears?
Admit, I am occasionally paranoid, and was so when removing that nut but nothing broke, everything is clean and looks great..
The mc shop happens top be next door to my machinist buddy from high school. Two opinions, same result, cyl needs work.
I found a wossner piston,rings, rod bearing on FB, nib from a random dude, might be able to get it for 100 shipped and send w/cyl to millineum.. any opinions on that?

If the manual says 72 inch lbs, then 72 inch lbs. unless someone on here had a problem with that from experience.

Yes in the Wossner and yes send it with the cylinder. Millennium will make sure the cylinder matches thy e piston. Powerseal is another good company no one mentioned

72 in/lbs is just fancy talk for 6 ft/lbs.

Millennium or Powerseal. I've used Millennium many times and have always gotten excellent work with great customer service. I'll never use US Chrome again due to their piss poor attitude.

The weather was horrible for 5 minutes! Watching pine trees over 100' tall sway in the high winds like dandelions was not cool!

Be sure to keep the arm portion still while working on that link arm and nut.