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can somebody confirm, i need to press in the mechanical water pump seal on my kdx220, the manual shows using a bearing driver tool that sits on top of the graphite sealing surface rather than on the flange,seems like an odd way to do it,it says not to use a hammer. am i correct in that if i just use a socket on the flange i can tap it in with a hammer

press against the flange only, any pressure on the graphite disc and you'll get a second chance to install it and tap lightly and evenly

Yeah, flange only! I used a PVC pipe coupler from Home Depot and my hydraulic press. However, you could use a piece of wood (to protect the edges of the cover) , a C-clamp, and the PVC coupler to do the same thing.

Use a little liquid soap.

I used the pvc coupler and tapped it in with the hammer, I put a little bit of shellac gasket sealer on the mating surface as the aluminium bore on the cover had some gouge marks. Put the cover in the sun and the bearing in the freezer, it almost fell in.
My spun impeller was replace with one from a Klx250 as they are identical. What kind of loctite needs to go on the impeller nut?

Yeah DO NOT put any pressure on the graphite. It WILL crack. (Ask me how I know this...)

The pumps I routinely work on use this same type of seal. As I have posted in the past, the installation instructions in the manual are wrong and if followed, are asking for trouble.

As BUFFTESTER and SS109 have posted, pressure should should be applied to the metal flange of the stationary portion only. For the pumps I work on, I use a suitably sized 12 point socket with a short extension for a driver. The metal cup is a press fit in the bore, so no lubricant is needed. That said, I give the cup a smear of brush on aviation Permatex sealant just for good measure.

I should qualify that I have not had to change the seal in my H series KDX, so all of the above is based on my pump work experience.

I'm getting ready to install a new pump seal, glad I can across this thread, great info. Water had seep into the trans, oil started to get milky.

I think it also helps to touch up the bore with wet and dry sandpaper just to take off the corrosion on the aluminium

kdxdazz wrote: 10:02 pm Jan 04 2020 What kind of loctite needs to go on the impeller nut?

I would use BLUE. I only use red if I don’t intend to remove the part again.

kdxdazz wrote: 11:54 pm Jan 05 2020 I think it also helps to touch up the bore with wet and dry sandpaper just to take off the corrosion on the aluminium

I wouldn’t.