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I had some engine work done on my KDX at a good Kawasaki shop. I removed the engine for the work. I put the engine back in, and then I'm putting the pipe back on and... it just doesn't fit. The pipe won't go in all the way into the engine exhuast. I fiddle and push and prod etc., and finally I see what is wrong. The normal washer is a thin flat piece like this.



But what I now have is this washer, which is much thicker.



It is a little hard to see what is going on, but the red is the "thickness" and the green is face that the pipe sits flush against. It looks like two rings and a flat surface. It is about 7 or 8mm thick, which is enough the pipe just doesn't sit right and leaks like crazy.

What is going on here? Has anyone seen this before? How the F do I get it out? I know, I know, I need to call the dealer, but I thought I'd ask here especially if I can just get this out my self and replace it with the correct washer.

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-pc-pi ... gKPrPD_BwE

Pick tool is what I would try.

Buy a new Kawasaki, made in Japan, still in the bag, new, copper crush washer and put it on. See if that cures it.

First, did it fit before you took it in? Looks like a PO installed a DIY torque ring, doubtful that any reputable dealership would do it while working your motor, likely they didn't even notice. Or if they did, figured you put it there. If they did put it in I would find a new place to do my work. At any rate, a pick or flat blade screwdriver to pry it out of there, then a NEW, UNUSED copper crush gasket and new O-rings on the pipe. Being old bikes you find that it still leaks a bit. Some folks live with it, others take hi temp gasket sealer to it.

I tried picking but it is tight. I'll try heating around it and picking.

I know for a fact it was not like this before the shop. Not happy with the shop!

I'll order an OEM washer/o-ring now.

The part you have in your hand is exactly what I am used to seeing.

Was that thick washer in there when you got the engine back? Are you sure you got the same cylinder back that was originally on your engine?

Take some measurements with a depth gauge from the green surface out to the end of the cylinder's exhaust recess bore, and compare that to your pipe. This depth measurement should compare favorably with the dimension from the end face of your pipe out to the second O ring, also allowing for the crushed thickness of the copper crush washer.

Ideally, it would be good to know what the OEM distance should be from the cylinder's bore out to the surface where the crush seats. I would measure mine, but it's all assembled. If yours measures more than standard, you have a non-standard washer in that bore.

pumpguy wrote: 02:06 pm Apr 19 2019 ...Are you sure you got the same cylinder back that was originally on your engine?

Thats what I was thinking too, what kind of work did they do?

heating might not work so well as the part will expand and get tighter. Try a chunk of dry ice on it for a bit.

Isn't that a o' ring type flange? Have you got o'ring groves on the exhaust?