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Took apart the 220 today(replacing the piston) and while first attemting the reverse thread nut off the KIPS actuator shaft, I did not realize or was it instructed to hold that shaft well. After the shaft spun into a different position, I found where a wrench is to be used. Now the KIPS actuator shaft does move like it did before the f-up, so did I break something and how do I tell if its in the correct position.

hmm, i never used a wrench on mine, i would take everything apart and then reassemlbe everything. If it doesnt work correctly then, you know something is messed up. It only takes a few minutes to take it apart and put it back together anyway. Unless of course you are cleaning it.

The lever goes into the casing, that would have to be disassemled. It rotates right & stops, rotates left & stops, it not a free spin, wondering if anyone else has done it. (probably)

Uh... yeah...you have to support it with a 6mm or 8mm wrench (can't quite remember) because that shaft is not very buffy. The shaft has a place for the wrench.....

I've done it too...

You have to take the RHS cover off and re-allign the shaft into the thingy-ma-bob inside the RHS cover. Mine is apart so if ya want pics just say the word.

It's a 6mm slot in that shaft. Sears has those. Seems like my manual was pretty clear on holding it. There is a round plug on the other side of the cylinder that you can remove with a big slotted screwdriver. With that open, you can rev the bike and watch the mechanism turn as the revs hit around 6K. If it does, that should tell you the centrifigul gizmo in the case is working, and turning the shaft you F'd up. It also tells you the shaft that runs horizontally across the cylinder is rotating, but it doesn't necessarilly mean the valves are postioned correctly, you can see that by looking in the exhaust port. Since your bike is apart anyway though, I'd make sure all is well in the clutch side case. I seem to remember that shaft costing somebody around $40.00 .

Ports are fine, cleaned them, they are in position. The lever appears to have or be able to spin where it connects inside the case. I use adjustable wrench to hold and worked great. The lever does have a normal rotating movment. I guess i'ii have to adjust and find out.
Trevor-Did it srew it up or can you rotate into position again w/o breaking the lower case open??
Also it has that screw thing where the lever goes into the casing.

That is the part that I twisted too far also. You will need to take the case off to re-position it. It's fairly obvious where it goes once apart but if you get stuck I'll take some photo's. The screw thing is no help unfortunately.

Trev-The thing is if you twist again (CLOCKWISE) it will turn to the original position. At least I thin it is.If you get a chance to take pics that would be good. The lever left is apprx. 90 degrees, then you go clockwise and it turns a small bit than stops like it should. It has that screw on the casing that is called a position Pin. Doesn't say how to position.
Also, anyone put lithum grease on the New piston like recommended, in addition to 2 stroke oil??
I'll take a pic later, probably eaiser than explannnninininini

I will have a look later as it's now 3am. Gimme a few hours and I'll take a look and some pics also.

This is with the shaft turned as far anti clockwise as it will go.

This is where the shaft goes through the case into the actuator.

This is properly aligned, note the little pin riding in the groove. In this pic, if you were to turn the shaft clockwise the whole assem, with nylon gear would lift up.

Hope I haven't confused you more. Let me know if there's anything I haven't explained properly.

Nice pics Trev. Now going to your 1st pic. The lever is in theposition, where if you went clockwise you will get resistence correct. Now if you move the lver clockwise, DOES IT ROTATE a certain amount then STOP/metting Resistence?
Also, the PUNCH MARK on the lever, is that supposed to be aligned with the marking on the gear teeth? Mine had a white mark and thats how I understood the instructions. Then the gear in back of that had a white mark also. I used the front gear as the Point.

If I go clockwise now the actuator and gear etc would fall out. By looking at the last pic it looks to be spring loaded so there could be the source of your 'resistance'. Until I put the RHS case back on I can't tell you how far it turns before [STOP/metting Resistence.]

RE punch mark allignment: Yep. The white mark should be on the same tooth even though its different gears. There should be a punch mark on the back gear. Make sure the punch mark on the lever matches the punch mark on the back gear if the white marks are on different teeth.

****-Gotta take that off and position to rear gear marking.ARHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Why ?? Were they in different places ??

Is the white mark on the front gear in a different spot to the punch mark ??

The front gear where the Lever meshes to had a white mark to the right of where the Rear Gear white mark was. When I MANUALLY moved it did fully moved from closed to open position. I will have to remove the cover that encases the lever & gear and see how they are moving when I twist the pipe. I don't want to scream it yet, since the piston is new. Will probably be able to try later today. I don't know

Looking at your pic the white mark would be about 3 teeth to the right on the front gear.

The white mark should be as represented in the pic.

Yeah like that. What I ment by resistence is that the lever will stop(not turn any further)
Hell, I'm starting to confuse myself

Your's is correct if it's like the above pic. If you can't turn the shaft any further anti clockwise then the 1st pic I'd say the shaft is still in its correct position. If you use the punch mark on the rear gear you should be fine. I don't understand why someone would put the white marks on different teeth though.