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Transmission output shaft stripped.
Hi, just bought a kdx220 (1998) and found it has a stripped output shaft, looks like the sprocket has spun on the shaft and taken all the teeth off it. It had been welded to hold it in place. Has anyone seen this happen before and I assume it is a complete engine strip to replace, or can you get access through the clutch side?
Any help appreciated!

I have seen it before on a 80's YZ 250 my brother had.

It appears that the cases will have to be split to get it out and it will come out on the shifter side. I may be wrong but that's how the manual shows it. If anyone knows any different, they will say so...

Sorry... and for what it's worth..... we just welded on a new sprocket and rode....

i hope you found out about the sprocket before you bought it. if not i would ask for a little money back or maybe an a$$ whoopin'. i am from east tn though and have a little hick in my family tree.

re: 'Has anyone seen this happen before..'

Not on a KDX. Most CSSs fit lousy. Brand new they still have a good lot of slop to them. I've found only Renthal to be different in that regard.

Still, I've not seen any effect of that lousy fit on the shaft. I'm saying they are pretty tough.

re: 'can you get access through the clutch side'

Can't happen. Take a look at buykawasaki.com....get THIS along with part numbers.

Ta, hadn't thought about sloppy fit causing the strip but it makes sense. Had a look at kawasaki.com, handy site but had to make up an address in USA as it wont let johnny foreigners like me on it, shame it won't take my VIN as the bike details would have been interesting! Looks like it's time for complete strip down and re-build.

Uh oh...a ferriner!

A word of caution: Don't assume that any information you get regarding US model KDX bikes applies to you. I doubt the shaft in your case magically slips out the LH side of an intact engine, but there have been more than a few surprises when it comes to parts and put-together differences between overseas (from our side of the pond) and US bikes.

In the middle of stripping the engine, taken the clutch bearing out to get to the big nut underneath.
Two questions:
Is it a left or right hand thread and what is best way of holding the clutch basket so you can get some force on the nut, i am a little nervous of wedging a bar against the four mounting bars incase one snaps?
Extracting the flywheel - anyone managed with an external 3 jaw puller or do i need a threaded puller to match the flywheel inner thread?
Excuse the basic questions but the manual I got off e-bay still hasn't arrived from the US I am running out of time before the first race of the season.

I'd use the threaded puller. It works well, and there is no chance of damaging your flywheel that way.

On my old bike I would just jam a hunk of oak in the teeth to lock the clutch enough to loosen the nut. Seemed to work fine. Haven't had to on my new one yet.

Just ordered a flywheel puller so that one is sorted.
Where did you wedge the teeth, I am left with a clutch basket that rotates indepedently of the inner with the nut on it, i would need to jam the ineer agaist the clutch plates to stop it turning, am i missing something?

Impact Wrench would take the inner cluch nut right off.

It is RHT.

re: anyone managed with an external 3 jaw puller?

Never..ever..not even on Sundays...even remotely consider, think of fleetingly and/or consider a whit using such a puller.

Yeah..I got the 'puller on order' part...but if it gets in late and you decide to try plan B, (re: '...I am running out of time') don't.

re: ' i am a little nervous of wedging a bar against the four mounting bars ..'

Such an idea should make you a tad more than a little nervous.

Between the 3-jaw puller idea and the bar wedgie idea...you just spent about $1000US.

Usually, the flywheel is held to remove the clutch basket, airtools notwithstanding (meaning, you don't have one).

If the engine side of the clutch isn't a 'hold' option, you can still hold the transmission side. Putting the transmission in a high gear, blocking the wheel is one method.

Keep track of the washer under the basket!!

I get the impression it is hold everything untill the flywheel puller comes. Putting it in gear and trying to get enough force on it is too difficult with the engine out of the bike. I will leave it untill I can get in from the other side.

Aha...I missed the 'out of the bike' part.

Get creative.

ooops...I was going to mention jamming the CSS with a 6' 2x4. Guess that's basically a problem, huh?

Can you position the CSS to a part of the shaft that still has some spline? Probably would take a piece of hardwood or else the sprocket might just dig a hole.

Have a buddy stand on it!

Good luck!

I used an electric rattle gun and it came straight off. Now any ideas putting it back on ?? Just rattle it back on ??

That's what I did....

Manual arrived today (bargain at $13 shipped to the UK but spent 1/2 an hour printing off the right pages) so managed to get on with it, got the clutch nut off by attaching a fat neighbour to the engine and holding the stillsons on what was left of the output shaft whilst I put some force on the clutch nut, got it off without damaging anything.

Photo of the shaft - http://bouncynation.atspace.com/shaft2.htm

Right hand casing came off without having to dismantle all the water pump housing.

Photo of the innards with right case off - http://bouncynation.atspace.com/rhs.htm

The squeak from the engine that I could hear appears to be from the crank bearing on he lhs, but I won’t know for sure until I split the case.

Anyone got experience of splitting the case; the manual mentions a special tool?
(photos on the links, couldn't get em to appear!)

I would just get a shop to split it if you are going to tackle it yourself.

I just split a 89 KDX200 case, replaced seals, crank bearings and reassembled. It is definitely not your average DIY job.

Getting it apart was fairly straight forward. Putting it back together (correctly) was a chore and required either the correct tools or a homemade press/jig.

I've never had ANYONE assemble my motors, be it cars, motorcycles or snowmobiles and I've done plenty, both for myself and others. Having said that, FRP racing will get the next KDX that needs the cases split The $150 he charges is a bargain!

What was the hardest bit on re-assy. Do you need the press to get the crank back on the bearings? How did you cope without the special tool to keep the two crank plates aligned? Any tips greatfully recieved!