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I am ready to put the motor back together on my 2000 KDX220R after getting the cylinder re plated. This will be my first motor rebuild so I want to make sure I do everything right. I got the gasket surfaces cleaned up but is there a way I need to prep it before I set the new gaskets on? Do I just wipe it down with carb cleaner or rubbing alcohol?
My cylinder I got back from Millennium is all cleaned up and all the gasket surfaces are textured now. So I imagine they will seal to the gaskets no problem but the crankcase area is smooth so I am thinking it needs to be squeaky clean?
I still need to get a repair manual and a torque wrench adapter for the cylinder nuts.

Cant wait to get the motor all finished up and back in the freshly powder coated frame.

You should have received very specific cleaning instructions from Millennium when you got the cylinder back. Follow them. If you did not, go on their website and read them there.

When you get the cylinder back, a good bath in hot soapy water followed by blowing out with compressed air. Then brake cleaner and a scotchbrite pad gets the gasket surfaces nice and shiny clean.

I didn't see anything on the website and didn't get any instructions. I will wash the cylinder bore out with soapy water and a scotch brite pad. The surfaces where the gaskets seal I just wipe clean with brake parts cleaner to make sure there is no residue?

Here you go, from their website:

http://www.millennium-tech.net/vidplaye ... l278d71bf6

heres a tip for reassembly

dont worry about timing the subvalves
drop them in, and slide in the actuator rod that connects the two valves
then grab a pair of pliers and lift the valve up about half an inch

this will place the rod in a recces in the valve and allow you to turn the valve to match up all the timing marks

Thanks for the link and the tips. Hoping I can get it assembled today.
Does anyone know the torque specs for the 4 cylinder nuts? I know the head nuts show 18 ft lbs. also what about the reed bolts and power valve cover bolts?

Just soapy water for the cylinder, don't run a scotchbrite pad in your cylinder bore. Use the pad on the gasket surfaces. Cylinder nuts same as head, 18 ft/lbs. 52 inch/lbs on the covers. You really should invest in a service manual...there are a lot of moving bits and pieces in the KIPS that need to go together correctly.

I plan on getting a service manual but cant get one today. I checked the ring gap, got the rings on the piston and got the piston installed.
My next question is which way do the gaskets go on (which side up/down) and do I need any kind of gasket sealer to go on the gaskets? Sorry for all the questions but this is my first time doing a top end, I have been watching YouTube how to videos all day it seems like.

Gaskets go on dry and will only fit one way as long as your locating pins are installed

Ok thanks! I never thought of the set pins. So far this has been easier that I expected it to be.

javjacob wrote:So far this has been easier that I expected it to be.

Gotta love two strokes.

I got the cylinder and head on. Nuts are only finger tight for now until I can get a torque wrench adapter. I want to torque the cylinder first.

Tedh98 wrote:

javjacob wrote:So far this has been easier that I expected it to be.

Gotta love two strokes.

Yeah I love the simplicity of 2 strokes. I still don't think I am brave enough to do a 4 stroke top end.

If you want to re-use the base gasket after your next reassembly then coat it with engine oil first.