KDXRIDER.NET

I've supermoto-ed my 97 KDX200 and it's street legal. I've gone on a few long 100+ mile rides and when I shut the bike down finally there's splooge everywhere. I think every gasket on the engine is leaking splooge. I'm guessing it's not jetted right but I'm also guessing that in addition to properly jetting the thing I need to tear the engine apart and put in a new gasket kit. Any advice on what else to do while I'm in there? Any direction to a good "how-to" for tearing the top end apart would be appreciated. I'm guessing I'm not the first one to have this issue. Thanks in advance for helping. I'm pretty ignorant on engines so this will be a first for me.

The most likely source is the pipe/head junction and incorrect jetting. There should be 2 39mm O-rings and a copper gasket where the pipe goes into the head. Even with new ones though it will spit some. A lot of guys use high temp sealer to keep that area leak free. Doubt that you have gasket problems in the rest of the motor unless you're seeing weeping around the mating surfaces. Splooge is a 2T fact of life, and you can minimize most of it with proper jetting, but there will always be some. Clean up the pipe mating piece then run through the jetting guide to get it spot on. Keep in mind that anytime you change oil/ratios you will need to rejet to get things right again.

Thanks. I'll try some jetting and cleaning, along with more gasket material. I had previously added some RTV to the area between the pipe and exhaust port and it's still splooging all over. It never did this on trails but it's nasty now. I think it's the constant high RPM abuse I'm putting it through. I've ran it on mountain roads with a couple 75mph stints on the highway (tops out at 82 with a 14 tooth front sprocket ) . Just not made for that and I'm realizing it more and more.

The article below is a great pictorial on cleaning and rebuilding the KIPS when doing a top-end rebuild. Get a manual to help with taking things apart and putting them back correctly.

Biggest point to remember is the left-hand thread on the KIPS actuator shaft, and to remember to support it near the top when taking on the left-hand threaded nut. You will also need a torque wrench adapter (my motion pro adapter was $13.50 on Amazon - to get the correct torque on the 4 nuts holding the cylinder to the crankcase.

Other possible causes of excessive spooge are worn or broken reeds and a worn-out top end. Jetting will never fix the issue if these items are not right.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/657765 ... to-kdx200/

Davenay67 wrote:The article below is a great pictorial on cleaning and rebuilding the KIPS when doing a top-end rebuild. Get a manual to help with taking things apart and putting them back correctly.

one thing the article fails to mention is the fact that you can ADJUST the subvalves after the shaft is in
this means you can throw the valves and shafts in without having to worry about timing

after the valves and shafts are in, you can lift the subvalves with a pair of pliers, or a magnet, and rotate them to get the timing marks lined up

Let's just call this thread dead. I was driving home today and the engine seized. I'm just plain done messing worth it. I'll be putting the parts on ebay soon

If anybody wants to pick up supermoto wheels and tires, street legal kit and a kx 250 fork already converted on the cheap in Colorado I'd love to make your day.

Where are you located?
Would you sell the whole bike?

Yes I most certainly would. I'm in Centennial. 7203642285

I'm interested in several parts.

stock rear wheel, possibly the sm wheels also.


i was going to comment with this until i saw it locked up:

you need to rejet your carb. spooge is a sign of bad jetting and/or bad right side crank seals . after the last two hundred miles of mixed riding , some of which around 64mph, most of it single track, this is how much spooge i see:


yes i know the pipe needs burned out, I'll do that and a to end this winter.
currently I'm:
35mm carb on a 220...
48 idler
150 main
middle clip
7/8 turn out on air screw for crisp response, 1 1/4 turns out for fastest idle, idles all day, zero spooge, smooth power with 13/47, 14/47 or streetr gearing at 15/47.





but now i see your bike went poof. you can rebuild it fairly cheaply if you like i bet it's a top end seize, easily repaired. let me know here on the forum is your change your mind.