SO I'm pieceing the 94 kdx back together after refreshing with new bearings etc.
The tail light wiring is a mess. maybe some can tell me wha tto connect to what? If I need / are missing a harness?
I was gifted a new fender with tail lamp and clean wiring ( wiring has 3 wires black yellow and brown)
1. Now the voltage regulator under the seat has 2 wires ( Blk/ylw and a brown). These two join with a black wire and red wire coming from under the gas tank( and front of frame) for a total of 4wires ( blk w ylw strip, a brown, black and a red)
2. The brown wire and red wire then join in soe sort of crimp connector and go into 2 wires: one that ends in a wierd little white module ( 1/4" x 1 1/4"), The other wire then runs down to the rear brake pedal and retuns as a black wire and dead ends as a loose black wirewire.
The two black with ylw stripe wires from point 1 then dead end as loose wires.
How do I connect the tail lamp to this jumbled mess?
wiring mess... tai light
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craftman245
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Re: wiring mess... tai light
I just re-wired my bike for an AC to DC conversion and know this stuff like the back of my hand.
Red and black wires from the front are the power and ground wires respectfully from the lighting coil/headlight.
The red wire should be joined up with the brown wire from the voltage regulator.
Black wire (or black/yellow wire on my bike) from the front should be joined up with the black/yellow wire from the voltage regulator.
Not sure what that white module is without a picture since mine doesn't have anything like that.
On a normal KDX rear fender, the red/brown combination would then be connected to the positive side of the tail light. The black wire combination would then be connected to the negative side of the tail light.
Your fender has three wires because that taillight has dual filaments; one for a running light and the other for a brake light. This set up is similar to what your car has when you turn your headlights on and when you step on the brake.
Two of those wire from the taillight will be positive power wires with the last wire being the ground wire. The two wires exiting the bottom of the socket will be your power wires; the wire exiting (generally) the side of the socket will be the ground wire.
Hook the ground wire from the socket to the 2 black wires coming from the front and the voltage regulator respectfully.
That wire that goes down to the rear brake pedal and returns as a dead ended black wire is most likely a hydraulic brake switch someone added on...see if that wire looks like it's coming out of the top of the rear brake master cylinder. If it is, connect this dead end black wire to one of the power wires coming out of the socket.
Connect the remaining socket power wire directly to the red/brown wire combination from the front and the voltage regulator respectfully; this combination should also include that wire that runs down to the brake pedal area.
Start the bike and turn the headlights on with the handlebar switch; the headlight and one of the filaments in the rear should be lit up. Stepping on the rear brake lever should light up the remaining filament. The brightest filament should light up with the brake lever pressed; remove and rotate the bulb 180 degrees if it's not this way.
Keep in mind that the stock lighting coil on the KDX 200 or 220 can only handle 45 watts; the headlight and the running light together eat up most of those 45 watts so engaging that brake light will considerably dim everything unless you upgrade to a higher wattage lighting coil.
I got an 85 watt lighting coil for mine from Ricky Stator.com which helped with this problem.
Replacing the rear bulb with an LED turn signal bulb however might decrease the wattage consumption enough to not need the different coil.
Good luck!!
Red and black wires from the front are the power and ground wires respectfully from the lighting coil/headlight.
The red wire should be joined up with the brown wire from the voltage regulator.
Black wire (or black/yellow wire on my bike) from the front should be joined up with the black/yellow wire from the voltage regulator.
Not sure what that white module is without a picture since mine doesn't have anything like that.
On a normal KDX rear fender, the red/brown combination would then be connected to the positive side of the tail light. The black wire combination would then be connected to the negative side of the tail light.
Your fender has three wires because that taillight has dual filaments; one for a running light and the other for a brake light. This set up is similar to what your car has when you turn your headlights on and when you step on the brake.
Two of those wire from the taillight will be positive power wires with the last wire being the ground wire. The two wires exiting the bottom of the socket will be your power wires; the wire exiting (generally) the side of the socket will be the ground wire.
Hook the ground wire from the socket to the 2 black wires coming from the front and the voltage regulator respectfully.
That wire that goes down to the rear brake pedal and returns as a dead ended black wire is most likely a hydraulic brake switch someone added on...see if that wire looks like it's coming out of the top of the rear brake master cylinder. If it is, connect this dead end black wire to one of the power wires coming out of the socket.
Connect the remaining socket power wire directly to the red/brown wire combination from the front and the voltage regulator respectfully; this combination should also include that wire that runs down to the brake pedal area.
Start the bike and turn the headlights on with the handlebar switch; the headlight and one of the filaments in the rear should be lit up. Stepping on the rear brake lever should light up the remaining filament. The brightest filament should light up with the brake lever pressed; remove and rotate the bulb 180 degrees if it's not this way.
Keep in mind that the stock lighting coil on the KDX 200 or 220 can only handle 45 watts; the headlight and the running light together eat up most of those 45 watts so engaging that brake light will considerably dim everything unless you upgrade to a higher wattage lighting coil.
I got an 85 watt lighting coil for mine from Ricky Stator.com which helped with this problem.
Replacing the rear bulb with an LED turn signal bulb however might decrease the wattage consumption enough to not need the different coil.
Good luck!!