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The bike I got has a brake light switch installed to the rear brake. They took the running light and made it a brake light. I'm pretty sure the law requires a running light at night on the road. Looks like they "Y" off the wires to the switch and there's a set of wires that go to nothing. Touch them together and the light comes on. The guy said when he sold it to me it needed a diode to work. I thinking a resistor would be what it needs. I was thinking a 4ohm 5watt resistor so that should make the bulb see 6v and when the switch on the brake is pushed it would get 12v thus having a brake light and running light. I'm not super good at electronics tho so wasn't sure. Friend of mine said the resistor would over load the stator as the bulb would pull more current?

Any ideas here if the idea is flawed on making it work? I know I could get a 85watt stator from ricks stator and add a separate running light too, a resistor seems simpler and cheaper

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com ... istors.php

The example is with DC so would this work with AC?

Or could one just put a double filament bulb in and run the brake light on one filiment and running on the other? Not sure how that works on AC tho. Each contact would be the positive and the base would share ground but no idea if that works for AC

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. The bike already uses DC bulbs and with the stock tail light, essentially a "running" light. An 1157 bulb socket needs installed. The switch for the rear brake is used to energize the "Hey, I'm braking" filament. AC stator rectified to DC. Just can't run big loads like grip warmers and expect any other non-factory electrical upgrades to perform

Ya I'm not sure if it's AC or DC. Also wasn't sure if the stator would handle another load or not. All I want is a running light

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FLNOH1 ... +taillight

is a three wire trail and brake light. feed one side from the stator, and feed the other side through your brake switch after the stator, then to the light. the stator puts out plenty if you use led lights for both ends. the stator only puts out AC

ohgood wrote:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FLNOH1 ... +taillight

is a three wire trail and brake light. feed one side from the stator, and feed the other side through your brake switch after the stator, then to the light. the stator puts out plenty if you use led lights for both ends. the stator only puts out AC

Looks good. I like it. May go that route. So the electronics in the board handles the AC conversion to DC for the LEDs? Be nice to find something to work in the OEM spot. Thinking just getting Ricks stator lighting coil and just go with a duel filiment bulb and 3 wire plug. Still undecided so any other suggestions are welcome.

Fitterman24 wrote:Someone correct me if I'm wrong. The bike already uses DC bulbs and with the stock tail light, essentially a "running" light. An 1157 bulb socket needs installed. The switch for the rear brake is used to energize the "Hey, I'm braking" filament. AC stator rectified to DC. Just can't run big loads like grip warmers and expect any other non-factory electrical upgrades to perform

Think the factory stator will handle the duel filiment bulb. I believe it's all AC, and bulbs will run on AC or DC. Been doing a lot of reading. I think the stator specs out at 45watts total. Head lamp using 30w and 10w for the OEM running light.

I'm slow sometimes but usually I can learn anything. So my solution is the following.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinf ... aQodaLkOHA

Then run a duel filiment socket and LED bulb like mentioned above. Just use my OEM location and have both running light and brake light.

Bonno wrote:

ohgood wrote:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FLNOH1 ... +taillight

is a three wire trail and brake light. feed one side from the stator, and feed the other side through your brake switch after the stator, then to the light. the stator puts out plenty if you use led lights for both ends. the stator only puts out AC

Looks good. I like it. May go that route. So the electronics in the board handles the AC conversion to DC for the LEDs? Be nice to find something to work in the OEM spot. Thinking just getting Ricks stator lighting coil and just go with a duel filiment bulb and 3 wire plug. Still undecided so any other suggestions are welcome.

there is no conversion, it's just running of the bikes AC. if you add a regulator/rectifier, you'll have to up the output and either a capacitor or battery to smooth out the dc. I've tried, and burned every rectifier I've tried so far, finally went back to running all the LED lights off of AC.

The LED I've seen say either just 12v or 12v DC. So the LED bulbs will run fine on AC?

I have some fender kit with LED brake and running lights. I connected it up to the stock wires, using the positive to either the brake light or running and brake both (don't remember). AC is supposedly not optimal, but it's working and gives me a tail light, which is all I wanted.

Bonno wrote:The LED I've seen say either just 12v or 12v DC. So the LED bulbs will run fine on AC?

You are making this more complicated than you need too. The factory system on your bike already has a regulator/rectifier on it. Factory bulbs are 12V.

Yes, a 12V LED bulb will work.

If you want brake lights you have to wire in a brake light switch and an 1157, dual filament socket to replace your single filament socket. Stop being concerned with the A/C vs D/C aspect of this question.

Ya maybe so, but I have to know how everything works. Been doing tons of reading on electricity in general and how motors and work and generators. I pretty much understand it all now. I will just change the socket to 1157 and add led. I bought 17ga wire and flywheel puller off amazon yesterday and going to re wire the lighting coil for more watts just because. Already have the break sensor wired in the tail light, just need a running so a daul filiment led with 1157 socket will do.


It has a regulator but not a rectifier. Tho i believe AC will work and I'm going to try it unless it don't end up working long time

You're correct about having no rectifier. E series bikes are AC from the factory. Some LEDs work fine with AC, but I've toasted some also.

"Good job, guys. "