kdxq: You pay WAY too close attention to stuff....
Yep. I gots a Titax (not stainless..they DO make a stainless) in my spare parts bin. I didn't use it 'cuz it was ugly!!
I got a Braking (yes, that is a brand name) rotor. Drilled (not slotted..not solid).
I'm sure you would be happy with a Titax....or Tusk. Even if it IS ugly. Heck...you
own a HONDA 'fer crine out loud!! You're used to ugly!
re: 'is the 49th the reason why my rubber block is like worn down to nothing,..'
What rubber block? There's a rubber block somewheres?
You're referring to the chain guide? You're referring to the chain slipper (around the swing arm by the CSS)?
For 1: Those 'wear' no matter what sprocket size you use..both of them.
And, for B: The chain guide block will wear quicker with a 49 than it will a 47.
re: Would a 48 be 'much better'....
'Much better' for what? More top speed...less bottom end pull. Enough that you would even notice? Likely not.
re: 'the sunstars are good sprokets right..'
They're OK. There are other brands that are better. They also cost more!
re: ' is there an easy way to tell if my chain needs replacing?'
Kind of.
the web wrote:
NORMS AND REPLACEMENT CRITERIA
So, why not just swop out your chain on a basis of time or distance ? If you're riding in identical conditions, this may work ...but you may be in for a big surprise with all your cogs worn out prematurely ! Conditions affecting chain wear can vary dramatically from muddy MTB trails (where chains may last less than 500 km) to clean road conditions (where chains have lasted 10 000+ km). And don't imagine that your particular MTB or road condtions remain static - they won't - they vary with season, rain, and when you forget chain cleaning or lubing. Intuitively knowing accumulated chain wear isn't actually feasible ...but its easy enough to measure.
Norms when new : On new chains, the pitch for single links should be exactly 0.50" (ie link-pairs 1.00"). Thus 12 link-pairs on a new (or unstretched) chain, should measure exactly 12.00" = 304.8mm, but there are always manufacturing inaccuracies. On a range of brand new chains, I measured "stretch" to be in the range of -0.10% to +0.15% (measured using a long steel ruler over 48 link-pairs).
Replacement Criteria : For normal maintenance (chain-suck not an issue), chains should be replaced at about +0.5% overall "stretch". This +0.5% = 1/16" = 1.5mm over 12 link-pairs.
By +1.0% stretch (1/8" or 3.0mm over 12 link-pairs), chains will have done significant damage to both the chain-rings and rear sprockets. Then when you install a new (or low-stretch) chain, it will inevitably skip over the worn teeth on the rear sprockets during high-load pedalling ; this is very disconcerting and its impact loading will do further damage and will do it quickly.
If you have installed a new granny-ring or flipped the ring to use its unworn faces, for the purpose of alleviating chain-suck, then replace the chain preferably ; and definitely if its stretch is greater than +0.3%.
HOW TO MEASURE CHAIN-STRETCH
Conventional Method : For measuring chain "stretch" properly over 12 link-pairs (ie 24 links or 12") using a steel rule or tape measure, see Mike Tierney's website (which has clear explanatory photos).
An alternative is to measure over 48 link-pairs. Remove the chain from the bike which is easy if you use an SRAM type "power-link" or any other of these universal type links ; clean the chain to remove any dirt packed into its joints which could affect the measurement ; hang the chain up with a small weight at the bottom ; use a long steel rule to measure the total pin-to-pin distance (see Tierney's photos - but over 48 link-pairs). The +0.5% stretch will now be 1/4" or 6.1mm which can be measured more easily and accurately over the longer chain length.
Fast and Simple Method : Another very simple method I use to assess chain wear is to have three chains always hanging next to each other (full-length) from the same thin steel rod in my garage ; they only needed to be measured the first time. One chain is badly worn at +1.0% wear, the next is normally worn at +0.5% wear, and the nearest is brand new. As soon as I've removed my current chain from the bike (in a jiffy with its "power-link"), I hang it on the same rod - with an instant view of its "stretch". Typically, chains on most bikes have a few more than 100 single links (50 link-pairs) ; when a chain has stretched 0.5%, its lower end will be about half a link longer than the new chain - then put the new chain on the bike, and buy a replacement new chain.
Measuring Gauges : Park Tools (and others) make gauges for measuring chain stretch. However, I have experienced very inaccurate results using it, when compared directly with the more accurate methods mentioned above. I also consider that Park's recommendation of a +1.0% stretch allowance is far too great (although it is noted that this type of gauge often reads +1.0% when the real stretch is actually +0.5%).
I also repeated my investigation into "stretch" of brand new chains on the same chains indicated in "Norms when new", using a borrowed Park Tool. This showed "stretch" of +0.20% to +0.40% (using a method to interpret the Park reading). So the Park Tool is conservative, but unneccesarily and wastefully so if the +0.5% criterion is used for discarding chains. Park's own criterion of +1.0% gets around this to some degree but leaves a wrong understanding of the issue. There are fundamental geometric reasons why this device (and other generics based on the same idea) will over-measure, and the degree of over-measurement gets worse as the chain wears. I don't know if any generics have some way of mitigating the problem and providing more accurate measurements, but it would appear not.
I'm pretty funny, 'eh?
Note this is for
bicycle chains. Owning a Honda...you're familiar with bicycle chains..........
This is for a 520 chain (what you have on your KDX)
some other website wrote:
For 520, 525 or 530 chains. Measure the distance between the centers of two pins separated by 16 links of chain. For o-ring chains, if the distance is 10.098” (approx 10-3/32”) or more, replace the chain. For non o-ring chains, if the distance is 10.197” (approx 10-3/16”)or more, replace the chain.
A rube goldberg method? Pull the chain from the rear sprocket at the 3:00 o'clock position. If you can pull the chain further than 1/2 the pitch (5/8" in the case of a 5xx chain), the chain is likely worn out.
If you see 'windswept' teeth on your sprocket...the whole final drive
was worn out some time ago.
...ask a lot of questions...get a lot of answers.
...sometimes!
This was fun!!
