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I have a kick start issue....it doesn't catch all the time. I searched a little on this forum and found this member described a similar situation.

"My kick start seems to "slip" sometimes. I have to kick it lightly until it catches. Is this normal? Its almost like I have to "line it up" before putting the foot to it or it will slip and I end up killing the top of my foot with the foot peg."

It's like I find a false neutral and kick through without moving the piston at all. My foot slams the bottom of the kicks stroke and hurts my instep.

I can bump start my bike easily but can't get it to kick start. I don't think I'm generating enough speed to the rotation. What should I look at to remedy?

worn dogs on the assembly would be my guess. file them sharp again ?

Oh?.....you can do that?.....

Don't hold me to this, but I think that is hardened steel. Might be tough to file.

You might want to check the plastic bushing in the spring. If it is not seated correctly it will do that. I went through the same thing this past winter after a full rebuild. The bushing looked like it was seated but it wasn't. Only took me three times to get it corrected.

I watched a YouTube video of a guy who talks about the ratchet gear on his 84 KX. He said he used a Dremel tool to lightly sharpen the cog edges. It worked for a year til he found some good replacement parts.

I had the same problem on a Gas Gas 200. Worn dogs on this ratchet :



I had to remove all the clutch to access it.

Pain to get off. I fixed up a set with a fly cutter set up in a milling machine and had the dogs in an indexing head. The idea is to actually put a slight backcut on them so they pull in under torque rather than jump.

Huh? I don't get most of the terms you just used. I'm a willing amateur mechanic. Can u explain?

What oil are you using in the gearbox? Some heavier oils have been known to cause the ratchet gear to slip. I have a serviceable ratchet gear set if you find it needs to be replaced.

10w30 I think. Save that ratchet set for me. I've started disassenbling. We ll see what we got.

bultaco4ever wrote:Huh? I don't get most of the terms you just used. I'm a willing amateur mechanic. Can u explain?

a fly cutter is a tool that lets you mill flat surfaces,


and an indexing head allows you to accurately set up an object with multiple evenly spaced faces,

If I wanted to...where would I find these services?

OK ....I removed the right side cover. So, in order to remove the kick start ratchet assembly, I have to remove the clutch basket first...right?

Photo link

https://mail-attachment.googleuserconte ... 1&disp=emb

Yes. clutch basket has to come out.

iirc the hex nut on the clutch basket was a real pain to remove.

Your search might have brought up some of my old threads. I first tried changing the spring, which didn't help. I then filed the grooves a bit which helped, but made it feel "fake". What helped best is changing my oil. I used to use 20w50, and switched to 15w40. It helped quite a bit. Still not perfect but much better. Forgot what the name is, but you could also try the old Ford oil (not available where I'm at).

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So, you went to thinner oil. I think I am already thinner than you. I forget exactly what the manual recommended but I think it was 10w30 or 10w40. I'm using one of those. I have the case off already and I'm trying to get the clutch basket nut off. I'm having a difficult time removing it so far. My little air compressor is too weak for my air impact. I made a flywheel holder that I'm going to try next and use some muscle. If that doesn't work I'm borrowing an electric impact wrench. I tried heating the nut a little with the air impact but it wouldn't let go.

A Harbor Freight electric impact gun is a real life saver when it comes to working on these bikes. Zips the clutch nut right off.