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I'm going to try a quart of PMPSS (see the title!) after this last tank of fuel. i've read folks like it, it's cheap, and doesn't smoke much.

currently i'm using lucas semi-synthetic and loving it. with cooler fall weather coming, it's time to change up things again and might as well experiment a little :)

I used to use that in the bikes i didnt care as much about. I never had any problems with it very cheap in comparison doesnt smell too bad but not as delicious as the klotz r50 i use for my forever bikes

TC-W3 is less than ideal for your bike. It's a KDX, so it'd likely survive running with vegi oil, at least for a while. General consensus however is to avoid TC-W2/3 unless your machine specifically calls for it. Generally TC-W oils are designed with a much lower RPM and much lower engine temp than our bikes routinely see.

I have been using Walmart super tech at 50:1 for year and have yet to have a oil related problem. My stock 220 had over 7500 miles.
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 86&t=15331

Yep. Like I said, you could probably get by with vegi or canola oil, being that it's a KDX, and they never want to die. That doesn't mean it's ideal. Just a matter of whether you want to use just whatever works, or whatever is best. I will never put TC-W3 or Super Tech in my bike. Hell, I won't even run that junk in my chainsaw.

Julien D wrote:Hell, I won't even run that junk in my chainsaw.

I run r50 in my stihll 044

I'm no expert on this stuff by any means, but I would caution that outboard motors are pretty much constant speed, and don't vary the RPM like our bikes do.

Another thing I have been told is that today's 2 stroke outboards do not have power valves like our bike engines do. I don't know this for a fact, but that's what I've been told. So how PMPSS effects power valve life and performance might be questionable.

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to use it in my old '59 piston ported iron barrel 250 Maico, but I'd think twice about using it in my KDX.

I have ran straight 30 motor oil as premix without issue as well
Thats what most bikes called for back int the day anyway I hadn't considered the powervalves into the equation sae30 is pretty cheap too

I was told that same thing a long time ago. So I wanted to do a experiment with TC-W3 oil. I have a 1997 street legal 220 that was not my main race bike.
So it was going to be my Guinean pig. I bought in 2001 with only a few races on it, but it had a street title. First thing I did was put on a old Yamaha odometer on it, that only had 200 miles.
Every 1 or 2 years I would look up the exhaust port and things would look good. Many more miles and years went by till last year I thought I would take it apart.
The compression was at 150psi. It had hardly any carbon on the (stock ) piston and the head was like new, no blow by and the rings were right at the service limit.
The power valves did have a lot of carbon build up but it was soft and gooey not baked on. Real easy to clean off. So after 13 year and 7500 miles of street riding with no problems I will stay with that oil.
KDX's are like the XR of the 2 stroke world.

Julien D wrote:TC-W3 is less than ideal for your bike. It's a KDX, so it'd likely survive running with vegi oil, at least for a while. General consensus however is to avoid TC-W2/3 unless your machine specifically calls for it. Generally TC-W oils are designed with a much lower RPM and much lower engine temp than our bikes routinely see.

could you explain the tcw thing you mentioned ? or link to an explanation? I can't Google worth a flip on those searches.

thanks :)

Sure. TC-W3 oils are developed for outboard marine engines, which generally pull a steady RPM for extended periods. They are also water cooled via circulating cool water from whatever lake/river/sea, so there is a constant supply of cold water rather than a hot radiator for cooling. Different oils for different purposes, that's all. There is so much information on this out there. You can search for TC W vs API TC and ashless vs low ash oils for starters.

I'm certainly not saying it won't work. It will run fine in your KDX, it's just that a high rev high output 2 cycle engine is not what marine oils are meant for. I would certainly use it if it was all I had on-hand, and I wouldn't worry too much about it. It is a KDX, after all.

Julien D wrote:Sure. TC-W3 oils are developed for outboard marine engines, which generally pull a steady RPM for extended periods. They are also water cooled via circulating cool water from whatever lake/river/sea, so there is a constant supply of cold water rather than a hot radiator for cooling. Different oils for different purposes, that's all. There is so much information on this out there. You can search for TC W vs API TC and ashless vs low ash oils for starters.

I'm certainly not saying it won't work. It will run fine in your KDX, it's just that a high rev high output 2 cycle engine is not what marine oils are meant for. I would certainly use it if it was all I had on-hand, and I wouldn't worry too much about it. It is a KDX, after all.

fantastic, i hadn't considered the different rpm ranges or load ranges of the engines, that makes sense. the kdx is essentially free revving 90% of the time, with occasional loads (when I"m riding it) but boats are constant throttle - - - -well like you've already stated. I'm being redundant. :)


thanks man !

We run it in mercury race outboards turning 9k rpm with nicasil plated cylinders with no issues, and no carbon buildup issues. I run it in the kdx as well

TCW. Two Cycle Water cooled. The three is the refinements. TC is two Cycle air cooled. Ran tcw 3 oil for years with no problems. Just stay with a quality oil and it will be fine. Tore apart a Yamaha that hadn't been ringed for 7 yrs. Cleanest motor I had seen with that much time on it. Owner swears supertech is all it had ever ran.