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Should the KIPS cover on the left side of my 04 kdx 200 have any black stuff in it? It looks like black carbon ooze. Also if I need to clean this stuff out should I clean the carbon also? At least I think it is carbon. I can scrape it off with my fingernails.

Yes it is normal and it does not hurt to clean it every once in a while.

wolfracing38 wrote:Yes it is normal and it does not hurt to clean it every once in a while.

OK thanks for the info I just posted a picture to show it looks like. also i just took off the nut that closes up the kips gear. And alot of black ooze came out as you can see on the frame. Is this normal as well? Thanks

Yes, it's normal. It's part of the exhaust path, so anything that is products from the exhaust will get deposited here too.

That's the price we pay for having power valves (KIPS) to improve the performance of a 2 stroke engine. If not kept clean and operating freely, they will seize up and their benefit will be lost, resulting in poor performance similar to an old fashioned 2 stroke engine without power valves in the exhaust.

pumpguy wrote:Yes, it's normal. It's part of the exhaust path, so anything that is products from the exhaust will get deposited here too.

That's the price we pay for having power valves (KIPS) to improve the performance of a 2 stroke engine. If not kept clean and operating freely, they will seize up and their benefit will be lost, resulting in poor performance similar to an old fashioned 2 stroke engine without power valves in the exhaust.

Kk thank!

I just used some break cleaner and a rag to clean mine up.

You should establish a cleaning regimine for your KIPPS system that involves all parts of the system in your cylinder. It is much easier to do with the engine removed from the frame.

Also if I need to clean this stuff out should I clean the carbon also? At least I think it is carbon. I can scrape it off with my fingernails.

I would not clean that gunk out under the rectangular cover. You run the risk of washing carbon bits into the cylinder through that subvalve.
If you pull the cylinder to clean everything up, it's fine of course.

The mechanism under the round slotted cover can be cleaned up with brake parts cleaner or something. It will get like that again pretty quick, but if it makes you feel good......

Is there a way to know if the KIPS are working properly without pulling the head apart? Today I had the side cover and pipe off so I toyed around a bit: if the rod moves freely and I feel some movement when I stick my finger in the exhaust port, I should be good right?

Bitteeinit wrote:Is there a way to know if the KIPS are working properly without pulling the head apart? Today I had the side cover and pipe off so I toyed around a bit: if the rod moves freely and I feel some movement when I stick my finger in the exhaust port, I should be good right?

pull the pipe off and get a flash light down there in the exhaust port. you can see the lower ports, and the main easily there.

disconnect the pawl from the clutch side, and you can rotate the forward suggest easily, or should be able to. if it binds at all, clean it up!

Unscrew the round slotted cover just forward of the KIPS resonator cover. Next, start the engine and blip the throttle. When the engine reaches around 6K RPM, you will see the exposed gear move. This movement shows the KIPS valves opening and closing.

There are youTube videos available showing this. Do a search and I'm sure you'll find something.

The SR doesn't have that opening, but it seems like I can just check the KIPS throttle mechanism to see if the rod is moving. As such:

[youtube]2NgcVygNpHE[/youtube]


I didn't have a flashlight last time so I'll also get one and look down in there.

Excellent point KarlP about cleaning at the rectangular cover. About pumpguy's post that's an easy way to see if it is working but you are assuming that the sub-valves and the rest of the components were timed correctly on install. If you didn't install them how would you know? I've seen a situation were the sub-valves were not correctly installed (timed) yet the exposed gear is rotating. Follow ohgood's suggestion and see if the sub-valves are in the open position when you rotate clockwise by hand the gear that the pawl was meshed with. There will be resistance when you rotate that gear because you will be compressing the governer spring located in your side-cover. Be gentle when you do this. Turn it only until it stops and no more. If you take that pawl gear off to do this it is held on by a LEFT-HAND threaded nut. Prevent the rod from rotating by having a crescent wrench or pliers holding the pawl when you put a wrench/socket on the that nut to loosen it.