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Okay I have an 03 220, it's got a fmf gnarly desert on it, plus a powercore 2 silencer. I've been reading a lot that the 220 isn't great for top end speed. I think I might try and gear up some to see what that does to it, but I was wondering what everyone suggests I do to get more top end out of my bike, without having to do any head or port work. Also curious to know if a kdx 200 carb would be a good replacement for the stock 220 carb.

A bigger carb will help what does it have for gearing now? What type of racing/riding are you doing?

Well usually I'm in the trails, but I'd like to branch out and do some GP races which I'm not sure if my bike would race well in. I believe I have a 48 in the back and the front is 13.

The 200 (35mm) carb on the 220 (33mm) is very common.

Here is what I do to all of my 220's with excellent results:
1. Send head to Ron Black - you will not regret it and will have it back in a week.
2. FMF desert pipe
3. Carb off of a 200 or have yours modified by Ron (even better)
4. Reed upgrade - vforce 3, rad valve or boyessen - all work fine

You will see a huge difference in both low end and actually have a powerband kick in when the kips valves open
I should mention to make sure that your kips is clean and working properly.

Is it better to have the 200 carb or have RB work his magic? Also does anyone have a clue what the stock reed looks like? I don't think mine is stock. I'm not sure. I did just recently redo my top end and clean the kips valves.

Having RB work your current carb and head over would be the better option. When you redid the top end, did you go with a forged piston? The stock 220 piston is a known weak point.

Yeah wisco forged piston. So it wouldn't be worth the time to get the 200 carb? Why is RB's work better than let's say Jeff Fredette? Is there any particular reason?

KurtisHogue wrote:Is it better to have the 200 carb or have RB work his magic? Also does anyone have a clue what the stock reed looks like? I don't think mine is stock. I'm not sure. I did just recently redo my top end and clean the kips valves.

The stock reeds are a single petal each side and will have curved metal stops.
Boyessen are dual (2-stage) pedals on each side. They can be carbon fiber or fiberglass.

+1 on the modified carb. He will add the divider plate to the front bore that helps low end.

The Reed cage I pulled out had 3 single flaps on each side with curved metal stops I believe. I think I will do the modified carb. I really want more top end so I can shut my friends up, particularly the one with the 125. And just because I'd like to see a little more top end out of my bike.

KurtisHogue wrote:The Reed cage I pulled out had 3 single flaps on each side with curved metal stops I believe. I think I will do the modified carb. I really want more top end so I can shut my friends up, particularly the one with the 125. And just because I'd like to see a little more top end out of my bike.

Sounds like a Boyesen reed cage, is the rubber boot to the carb spate from the outer part of the reed cage?

6 Riders wrote:

KurtisHogue wrote:The Reed cage I pulled out had 3 single flaps on each side with curved metal stops I believe. I think I will do the modified carb. I really want more top end so I can shut my friends up, particularly the one with the 125. And just because I'd like to see a little more top end out of my bike.

Sounds like a Boyesen reed cage, is the rubber boot to the carb spate from the outer part of the reed cage?

If it looks like this:

then it is stock.

Do the head mod. The head mod is the best performance money you will spend on a 220.

Ah DR, you are right, the Boyseen has 2 large petals on each side.

The best way I know to get more speed is to twist that grip on the right side handlebar.

canamfan wrote:The best way I know to get more speed is to twist that grip on the right side handlebar. [emoji38]

Haha I now right?! Okay so I have a stock reed, I think I'll get the head modified and get a different Reed cage! I just want to have a lot more top end with the bike I have.

Boyesen Reeds are great reeds

KurtisHogue wrote:

canamfan wrote:The best way I know to get more speed is to twist that grip on the right side handlebar. [emoji38]

Haha I now right?! Okay so I have a stock reed, I think I'll get the head modified and get a different Reed cage! I just want to have a lot more top end with the bike I have.

The Boyesen reeds use the stock cage and just replace the fiber reeds and stops.
To get the top end revs, you need the bigger carb too. Either a mod of the 33mm from the stock 220 or find a 35mm from a 200. There are also new options.
On one of my hybrid bikes, I run the 36mm Keihin from the donor 2001 KX125. It runs good, but I think I get more top end from the KDX 200 carbs. A 1999 or older KX125 carb is better because they don't have the extra electronics that the later ones have. I once tried a Mikuni TM36 from a newer KX and the bike was a low end beast but the top end suffered.

jetsrus has brand new pwk 35 for $180 and pwk airstriker for $190

The 220 is tuned for low to mid range power & torque...there are a few mods you can do to shift the power delivery to give it a longer power band , FMF pipe, porting the motor & modding the head will wake the bike up, fitting a 35mm carb also works very well as does installing a 36mm kx 125 carb ( 1990 ) ... A boyesen rad valve is also recommend, all these mods will improve what you already have & if you adjust the timing to suit then you can raise the top end RPM 1000/1500 which will give you a slight advantage before the RPMS fall flat....you should also find that you would not have lost any of the bottom end pull that 220s are famous for....I have had the above done to my 220 with good results..

Find a nice uphill run and challenge your 125 buddy to a race to the top.He will shut up after that.