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Hi I have a 2000 kdx 200 and am planning to get new sprockets/chain. I just got the bike and am planning on riding it 95% of the time
in the woods around CT. Just wondering if anyone can help me with what a good sprocket combo would be for tight new England woods.

Currently I have a 47 rear & 13 front.

Thanks

13/50

Thanks a lot, I should've mentioned that a lot of the trails i ride are very tight so I would like to gear keeping that in mind, with the ability to crawl as much as possible

12/47=13/50=14/53, 12/50=13/53=14/56, so those work as well. I'd put a good pipe (woods) on it, drop the front one tooth (it's cheap) and see where that leaves me. If that slowed the bike down enough for me, when the chain and/or sprockets wore out,, I'd then buy the 13/50 gearing (using a 13 tooth front helps the chain last longer). If I needed to go even slower, I'd go with the 13/53.
Of course practicing and learning how to ride a little faster and standing up most of the time helps as well.

Dropping a tooth in the front will allow you to switch back and forth without worrying about chain length.


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Great thank you very much for the advice I will get a smaller front sprocket to start with . Any recommendations on a good woodpipe and where to get it?

Fmf gnarly woods, available at rockymountainatv.com, eBay, and a slew of other on-line parts sites

+1 for Gnarly Woods pipe. I have one on my so s bike and matched it with a powercore2 silencer.

If you are going to the trouble of improving the outflow, may as well remove the airbox lid for improved inflow. Re-jet as needed [emoji16]


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Sullyfam wrote:+1 for Gnarly Woods pipe. I have one on my so s bike and matched it with a powercore2 silencer.

If you are going to the trouble of improving the outflow, may as well remove the airbox lid for improved inflow. Re-jet as needed [emoji16]


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What do you mean remove the airbox's lid? Just litterally remove it and leave like that?

Yep, just take it off and relocate the regulator somewhere else, will let the motor breathe easier, but will require rejetting (which you will have to do for a pipe change anyways)

I need a new chain, Is it worth getting an Oring chain?

Yes you can literally toss the lid. However, I just took a Dremel and cut out all but the edges and the regulator. Would have been faster and easier just to relocate the regulator, but I was bored [emoji16]

I always have used O-rings so I can't speak to the difference. That said, I think any quality chain so long as you take care of it will be fine.


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Ok great, any preference on brand of sprockets? I would like to get something that is good quality but doesn't need to be the best or most expensive.

Putting in an order this week for a few things, anyone have recommendation on what to get for a decent brand of these items? Chain, skid plate, front sprocket, & Two cycle oil.. Also
what ratio is best to run?

The best O-Ring chain that you can buy is a Regina/MSR, I've been using RK X-ring chains and having some luck. Most steel sprockets last as long as the chain, I use JT, outlaw, sunstar and Primary Drive.
I run stock gearing or faster, 13/50 (12/47) is as low as I'd go, but gearing a personal preference.
Skid plate...I like the Works style, most of the aluminum skids will work just fine. I'm making a skid out of a cutting board next.
As far as oil goes, get whatever you want, but don't change oils, it affects your jetting. I recommend that you find a brand that you can get locally and use that.

Great thanks. What ratio do you prefer?45:1, 55:1 ?

I have been running a supersprox and if you buy their "kit" (sprockets plus chain) the rear sprocket comes with a lifetime guarantee. The inner is aluminum and the outter is steel.

http://www.supersproxusa.com



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travisvt wrote:Great thanks. What ratio do you prefer?45:1, 55:1 ?

I run 40:1, but for slow trail riding 50:1 is ok.

Ok thanks, I have a buddy that rides 70:1 , he has a KDX 200' for 14 years and only had to
do minimal top ends. Maybe I'll try 55:1

I run have run 32:1 to 40:1, but never less oil then that. Clearly you can run less, but I'm not sure why you would want to unless it's actually called for in the manual. I'm sure there's an advantage just never thought to consider less oil.


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