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Just pulled the head off my new to me KDX 200 E1. Should the bore be nikasil or iron liner? I had coolant leaking from the LH powervalve but no crack visible? Maybe the head gasket ? the PO had blocked the expansion tank breather and system was pressurized when removing the rad cap when cold.
Thanks.

The stock bore is Nickasil.

Stock has Kawasaki's Electrofusion coating, which equates to the common term, "plated".

Appears that my one has a iron liner installed. Going to have the barrel off and pressure check. Concerned that they have bored into the water jacket

scriberman wrote:Appears that my one has a iron liner installed. Going to have the barrel off and pressure check. Concerned that they have bored into the water jacket

Unlikely. Have any pics? Any markings on top of the piston that might clue us in to bore size? How will you pressure check with the cylinder off?

Update:
Can confirm it has a iron liner (unless Kawasaki's electorfusion plating is 2.5mm thick?)
There are no markings on the piston (except the arrow)
66mm bore.
I pressure tested the head barrel assy. off the bike. easy because there is no waterways between the base gasket join.
The head gasket is leaking. Just put some loctite on to confirm. Didn't want to waste my new gasket to find out other problems.
The KIPPS vales are steel. There are washers under the KIPPS valves? can't see any on the parts diagram?
The center valve is missing? the one under the cover above the exhaust outlet. Cant work out how this is operated ?
Mowerman, can't read your PM ( not authorized to read PM's??)
Thanks for peoples help. Great forum.

What country is your bike from? (we are here to fix the bike, not you)

The plating is not 2.5mm thick. It sounds sleeved.

USA KIPS valves are aluminum on 1989 - 1994 KDX200.

There are tons of pics on here on older threads showing the center valve.

I'm in the UK, assume the bike is a UK model? Still chasing leaks. The top water take off cap was torqued to FT, just had to re-face it to seal. Now leaking from front of head/barrel.

Aren't UK models SR? Do you have a speedo and blinkers? Is your tank make of steel? If so, you have an SR model. Your cylinder is definitely sleeved. Not a big deal in my opinion. Most likely one of the previous owners wore down the plating (or seized the engine) and since plating might be difficult in the UK, he decided to sleeve it. Valves should be aluminum. Just take them in your hand. They should feel really light. Like, really light.

Not a SR model, plastic tank. Looking a the head it has had a blow up in the past. The valves are def steel. Aluminium idler gear, but steel valves. The mystery continues

scriberman wrote:Not a SR model, plastic tank. Looking a the head it has had a blow up in the past. The valves are def steel. Aluminium idler gear, but steel valves. The mystery continues

If I were to guess I'd say you might have bdkraceeng's(UK) KMX200 steel valves with the adapter bushing/washer at the bottom (bushing so they would fit the 89-94 KDX) And yeah BDK did not make a steel idler gear since I don't think the KMX used one

Could you upload pictures of those valves? I think the pinion gears are a bit shorter on their steel KMX valves compared to the KDX

BDK race engineering stell KMX valves:



And below is the stock KDX alloy/aluminum valve



Brock from BDK currently has under production, the left/right valves and idler gear plus the round collars for the 89-94 KDX200 and supposed to be ready next month

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 15&t=17339

As for the center valve if you have trouble finding one locally, you can private message me(you'll have to donate a dollar/quid to the forum first) I have a spare I don't need

UK got SR and normal KDX, Bite.

UK guy, can you post some pics (and update your location in your profile)?

Yep, those are the steel valves. Profile updated and donated. On the case with pics.

Found the leak. The water jacket is cracked on the L/H side under the resonator cover, crack about 1 1/4" running horizontal 1/4" above the bottom gasket face. To weld or glue?
That would explain the coolant leak from the L/H KIPS valve into the exhaust.
I know, I know, Pics or it didn't happen

No kidding....had the SAME issue on mine when I bought it!

I noticed no coolant in the rads when I brought it home. I filled it and started it, and made a lot of gurgling and spat all the water out the tailpipe...

I had mine welded, regrettably by some chump who didn't know what he was doing lol...but it worked and held water after that. Was a good temporary fix but I ended up purchasing a newly nikasil plated jug off a forum member..

Very rare issue and that's the only other time I've heard of this happening. More on my story here: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 03&t=14561

Wow! A second time!

Yes, identical size and location of crack. My moneys on frost damage.

Gotanubike, the welding on your barrel may look over the top but when I welded mine I found another crack running parallel with the first and about 3/4" inch above. Yours may have been the same.
Still confused about the center exhaust valve. The diagram in the manual shows it being opperated by the rack but my rack only has teeth either end? I know I have KMX steel valves,is the rack different on the KMX ?
Thanks,
Steve

The guy said the same thing. When he started welding he got about halfway through and another crack developed just above it, hence the copious amount of welding done for a simple tiny little crack.

Rack should have teeth in the middle to operate the center valve. I didn't think the KMX valves with bushes mod required the KMX rack/rod, don't see why you wouldn't have the original rack with the centre valve also.

Keystone did a good write-up of E-series KIPS install with pics and stuff:

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 15&t=15320

Cheers for the link. I can see why mine didn't have the center valve fitted, different rack with no teeth on the center. Going to make one I can adjust, wont be on the fly adjustable but can get a good setting until I find a replacement.