KDXRIDER.NET

Before I breakout the Victor Wrench and either bend or shorten the kickstand, is there a way to adjust its length?

I added the koubalink 2s to the 200 today and I also dropped the forks in tree 1", new bearings on the way... I can touch ground with the balls of my feet (both at same time) and kick it off the stand. What is a bit scary is standing it back up on the stand.

These stands look like a pipe in a pipe. Is there a way to screw it in and out?

I doubt it, but good question. I also always thought the stand looked really cheap. I don't like how it makes the bike sit almost vertical. As soon as there's a slight slant or a pile of dirt, you can't put it on the stand. Then again, we shouldn't complain as half the guys on this site don't even have them to begin with! ;-)

Yeah it doesn't adjust, but you can going a little off the mounting plate to make it go further forward. Which will lean the bike over some more.

As far as taking it off the stand I do that before I get on.
I'm pretty short as well. I haven't lowered mine yet. Been thinking about it though.

It really does look like two pieces of pipe slipped together. If I could find a tack or something and drill it out I could go back and add a set screw of sorts to provide adjustment. The stand being cheap might work in my favor, but it looks to be deisgned for function over form.

Something else I noticed after lowering (including at the forks) is chain tension increased considerably. Noticed rollers and swingarm protectors showed a good bit of wear. Some areas of the chain show wear as well. Any pictorals on determining sprocket wear?

You will definitely need to adjust your chain if you lowered the rear.

GI_JO_NATHAN wrote:You will definitely need to adjust your chain if you lowered the rear.

Yeah, geometry, how does it work? Just didn't think about it beforehand.

SETXshooter wrote:
Yeah, geometry, how does it work? Just didn't think about it beforehand.

Lol
It happens.

You can tell a sprocket is worn by looking at the teeth. If they look like shark fins or curling waves then they are worn.

It's a good idea to replace both sprockets and chain at the same time as if one is worn, so likely are the others. Besides mismatching will just result in the new parts wearing faster.

When I was actively racing I always ran an aluminum rear sprocket, but I now run a steel sprocket on my son's KDX and a Sprockex on my yz250 which is an aluminum inner with a steel outer. Better life expectancy and for the most part cheaper. Technically the aluminum is lighter thus less rotating mass. However, I can tell you that in the list of things that could make me faster, issues with me top the list, then perhaps bike setup and so far down the list it's not even funny would be the rotating mass savings of my $#%! sprocket! I am running the Sprockex cause I'm a sucker for marketing, old habits for hard and they come with a lifetime warranty. Not the cheapest route but I feel faster [emoji12]




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Sorry, Sprockex should be supersprox. Website here:

http://www.supersproxusa.com


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Well...I used the DeWalt and Lincoln wrenches on the kickstand. Removed about 1.5 inch and rewelded the tube. She leans nicely to the left.

I was out of .035 flux core and had to go to O'Rielly and all they had was .030 FC. Little bit of grinding later and I was done.

I will start another thread for the other project of the day,,,

SETXshooter wrote:Well...I used the DeWalt and Lincoln wrenches on the kickstand. Removed about 1.5 inch and rewelded the tube. She leans nicely to the left.

I was out of .035 flux core and had to go to O'Rielly and all they had was .030 FC. Little bit of grinding later and I was done.

I will start another thread for the other project of the day,,,

Nice!

Does this look TOO worn?

Yes, you can see the sprocket teeth starting to look live little waves

Yup, sprockets are worn.


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Better pic of sprocket. Still look too worn? I have a set in my cart at RMATV if so.

What's the front look like?

It smaller and has fewer teeth








Badump tisss.

Haha!

They normally wear faster due to more stress on fewer teeth.

Can't tell by just looking at the chain, you have to measure a 20 link length. This is from first pin center to the 21st pin center, with a 20 kg weight hanging from the bottom chain run. Standard length for 20 links is 316.5-318.2 mm. Max allowable is 323 mm. As far as the rear sprocket goes, it looks a little worn, but I've seen far worse.

Another rough and ready way to check chain and rear sprocket wear is to try to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at about the axle horizontal center line. Good condition, you won't be able to get much movement. As the parts wear, you will be able to pull the chain further away.

Your sprocket is showing a little wear, certainly a lot of life left. I always run on the loose side of the spec for chain tension.

I always look at the shape of the teeth and the rollers in the chain. When the teeth get a lot of curve to them AND the rollers have a lot of up and down play, it won't be long before teeth start popping.

Replace them both sometime in the not too distant future, but not tomorrow.