KDXRIDER.NET

My rear brake doesnt return completely. I can take a screw driver and push the brake pads back all the way open. Then I pump the brake lever a few times and then they stay rubbing against the pads. Not enough to lock the wheel, but just enough to cause resistance and a very annoying whooshing sound. I don't have to open the bleeder to open the pads. Not sure where to start

Sorry too answer your question with a question but how much meat is left on the pads? The piston will will stick if the rotor is worn and the pads are thin. This problem can also occur if dirt makes its way into and past the seal around the piston.

masterblaster wrote:Sorry too answer your question with a question but how much meat is left on the pads? The piston will will stick if the rotor is worn and the pads are thin. This problem can also occur if dirt makes its way into and past the seal around the piston.

So basically when the piston is hyperextended it stays open? Pads look decent to me I will post pictures tomorrow to see what you guys think. I am just a bit of a newbie. If dirt got past the seal, it would clean out with brake cleaner, rebuild, reassemble, and bleed?

How are the pins they slide on?

Jason is right if the pins are crudded up or the pad has worn a step into the pin it rides on this can cause dragging also. If the pins check out I would take the caliper apart and detail everything. Be careful with your assembly or you will wind up buying a caliper rebuild out like I did.

*Kit

Agree. Sounds like a good cleaning and, if necessary, rebuild is in order.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Greased up the pins. Still sticks. Not what I wanted to see. So start pulling it apart I guess. I have no air compressor though. Will that be a problem?

Also I need some tips on how to reuse seals and stuff so I am not needing to buy a rebuild kit. I am done spending money and time on this for a while. The garage is cold this time of year!

masterblaster wrote:*Kit

Just a heads up, you can click the "edit" link to make changes to your posts if you need to.

Do the pins have grooves in them? I was not referring to them not being greased.

Jason wrote:Do the pins have grooves in them? I was not referring to them not being greased.

They don't appear too. I will double check that.

My dad said that sometimes the piston gets grouped up and you can spray brake cleaner on the piston

What year and model bike is it?????

the piston is probably hung in the caliper if the pins are actually sliding. but a rebuild kit for a couple bucks, hone the cylinder with scotch brite and put back together.

Its an H series 200
I can't seem to find a rebuild kit for the caliper anywhere. Just master cylinder.

Looking at this diagram https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/9 (look at the Rear Brake diagram). It looks like you only need 2 parts to fix it. PN 92049-1331 (oil seal) and PN 92092-1272 (piston seal). I would look very closely at PN 92043-1416 (the pins) to see if there are any grooves at all on them. If they are grooved, your caliper will hang up on the grooves, causing your brakes to drag....Ask me how I know (2 sets a brake pads later ) If they are grooved, you can get these https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/11 ... Kit?v=4169 way cheaper than OEM and I like them a little bit more. Both pins for 1/2 the price of one OEM and it gets rid of those little "covers" and allen head pins.

Holy cow 20 bucks for two little seals!!!! The pins are grooved so I will order those. So I know if I should order the rebuild kit, should piston go back in on its own with the pads out, or do I have a further problem? Thanks guys. This should be my last question on this subject

You'll need to "press" the piston back into the caliper. I use a "C" clamp and the old brake pad. Just slowly tighten the clamp down and the piston will go back in w/o a problem.
I had the "hanging brake" problem on my 93, the new pins and a new brake rotor cleaned that right up....oh yeah a liberal dose of brake cleaner was used as well. Rockymountain has brake rotors for $60. Pretty nice rotors really, but not listed for "H" series KDXs. They are listed for 93-94 KDXs but do work on the H bikes. I know this because I own both and regularly swap wheels.
Now, since you are up to $67 in parts, might as well tack on another $33 in "misc stuff you'll eventually need" or some nice goggles, to get free shipping.....Interesting how that works isn't it? I hate shopping there for that ONE reason! Always costs me a $100 or more.

6 Riders wrote:You'll need to "press" the piston back into the caliper. I use a "C" clamp and the old brake pad. Just slowly tighten the clamp down and the piston will go back in w/o a problem.
I had the "hanging brake" problem on my 93, the new pins and a new brake rotor cleaned that right up....oh yeah a liberal dose of brake cleaner was used as well. Rockymountain has brake rotors for $60. Pretty nice rotors really, but not listed for "H" series KDXs. They are listed for 93-94 KDXs but do work on the H bikes. I know this because I own both and regularly swap wheels.
Now, since you are up to $67 in parts, might as well tack on another $33 in "misc stuff you'll eventually need" or some nice goggles, to get free shipping.....Interesting how that works isn't it? I hate shopping there for that ONE reason! Always costs me a $100 or more.

I like your way of thinking! Sadly my rotors are well withing spec and I can't justify the rotors. :(
I'll just head to the local part store where there is free two day shipping [emoji106]

Man 6 riders you rock.