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I been working with a clutch dragging problem for the last two weeks without luck! I just install a new tusk clutch kit and now is worst. The basket, pressure plate, washers, cable and all the clutch components are within specs and installed properly by the service manual. I also change the belray gear saver for type f fluid and the clutch still drags. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks

Did you adjust the clutch cable? With a new clutch, you need to adjust the cable, because the new plates are thicker. Give it a try.

Did you soak the new clutch plates in Gbox oil for a good few hours before installation ? ( you need to )

OE clutch springs go weak after time, it`s always a good idea to replace these items with uprated/HD spring kit when replacing the clutch plates.

What do you mean by drag?
Some is normal. If it is to the point that you can't put it in gear without it stalling that is too much. If it is just that you can't push it around the shop in gear with the clutch in, that is normal.

You've been around a while. You know what is right and not, but a little more detail would help - I'm sure you've adjusted the cable......

Postigo wrote:I been working with a clutch dragging problem for the last two weeks without luck! I just install a new tusk clutch kit and now is worst. The basket, pressure plate, washers, cable and all the clutch components are within specs and installed properly by the service manual. I also change the belray gear saver for type f fluid and the clutch still drags. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks

look at the fingers on your clutch basket.

are they notched? if they are notched carefully file then flat, you'll gain smooth actuation again.

is the clutch lever end play set correctly?

is the cable sheath taught at all the connections,?

is the pivot shaft worn where it pushes on the clutch assembly?

Thanks for the replies guys, finally I found the root cause: a hair line crack on the clutch hub!!! During a throughly inspection of the parts I found a hair line crack parallel to the factory grooves and almost impossible to see with the naked eye. I just replace the hub and the pressure plate with a spare one and thank God everiting is back to normal. Again thanks for the replies.

Good eye and good deal [emoji106]


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WOW, that's crazy. Wouldn't have thought it would be something like that. Guess the crack was allowing the hub to become slightly contorted, causing the plates to bind as they move on it's grooves. Wonder how the fracture happened.

The defective hub and pressure plate came out of an engine that I bought from ebay log as a spare, I change it for the original one because I thought it was in better shape. One of the things that I found was that the clutch will work until the bike reaches operating temperature then the clutch was hard to pull with a lot of drag in the system even with the clutch cable adjusted all the way.