KDXRIDER.NET

Hi Everyone,
I live at sea-level and have purchased a 2002 KDX220 which runs very rough & choppy All the way up to the power-band when it then runs fine. Also it leaks fuel from the carb overflow when off and upright.
I have replaced the spark plug but to no avail.
After reading about possible solutions I've pulled the carburetor and reeds.
The carb itself looks good. I've submerged the floats in water for a while and they do not seem to be leaking as they float nice and level. The float needle is clean, rubber looks good and pin spring is working fine. Main jet(155) and slow jet(48) also seem fine. Also the reeds have no real indicator of wear, chipping, or any damage.

I'm stuck for an answer and am looking for help. Any ideas??
(Please do not quote this post with pictures)

I'd like to deal with getting the reeds and carb back on before considering other possible problems like the KIPS valves...

Many Thanks to All...

Below are some pictures of the carb and some of the parts.

02 KDX220 Keihin Carb


Inside the carb


Float Needle.


Main Jet


Slow Jet


Reeds look good on both sides

Rough and choppy as in "sputtering rich" type four stroking? If you are at sea level with current 70s temps and a 220 carb I'm going to guess that you are very rich which is giving the rough running condition. Sounds like maybe it can't clean itself out.

G22inSC wrote:Rough and choppy as in "sputtering rich" type four stroking? If you are at sea level with current 70s temps and a 220 carb I'm going to guess that you are very rich which is giving the rough running condition. Sounds like maybe it can't clean itself out.

Thanks G22...
To be honest, I don't know if it's 'four stroking' as I'm not familiar with an example of it. I've only Read on what four stroking is but wouldn't recognize it.

I have cleaned and just now reassembled the carb, air filters, reeds and all the connecting parts. Still.... no improvement to speak of.

If it's running really rich, Is changing the jetting the proper method to lean out the bike, or is it an adjustment at the carb?

Thank you again,
SD

Pick a particular octane gas and premix ratio and then stick with it. The only carb adjustment you have is the idle screw (no effect on rich/lean) and the air screw. The air screw will adjust minor rich/lean adjustments at about idle to 1/8 throttle or just above. All other adjusting is done by switching brass (jets).

First thing you need to do is stop that carb from leaking. If it is flooding when off it is pouring fuel in when running causing it to be very rich. This is most likely the whole problem. Carb seat could have had a bit of dirt in it or you may need to adjust the floats a bit. Shake your floats to your ear. Make sure you hear no fuel in them. Water is much thicker then fuel and is not a good test. good luck.

I have to agree , fix the float , someone posted a pic not to long ago that shows how he and I both adjust the float . It should be level with the body of the carb when closed( holding carb upside down with the float bowl off) Then blow air thru thefuel supply tube with a hose and your mouth , make sure there is no escaping air , make sure both sides of the float look the same( even on both sides) . If you hold up the reed block toward a light with reeds installed make sure you can see no daylight between the reeds and the block if you can you need new reeds . This float problem sounds like your problem, But you may be to rich on jetting as well .

Adjust the float.

Factory jets are 145 main 42 pilot. Your bike is rich! Read the jetting tutorial in the new to you bike thread.

Sounds good. I'll check the floats again & whether it's still leaking now that it's been cleaned and rebuilt. Does anyone have a Float tutorial?. I'll get the stock jets and let you know.

You just adjust the float by slightly bending the little tap the needle is on. As Jerry said make it level and do the air test. Even if the carb stops leaking the float can be still a little high. Keep us posted.

155/48 jets are usually for the 200....check that the carb isn't that off a 200....the needle may be that of a 200 too ?

Measure the front of the carb inner diameter...220-33mm 200-35mm..

Can't remember...is the carb not marked or stamped such as "PWK 33"? For some reason I was thinking my 200 had the 35 somewhere on the carb body.

Looked on my 220 and on right side has PWK (like in pic) but no number. Pair of calipers will due. Cornishwrecker made a good point. The 200 carb is a popular upgrade to the 220.

s10gto wrote:The 200 carb is a popular upgrade to the 220.

I'm curious how so. What does the 200 carb do better on the 220?

IDRIDR wrote:

s10gto wrote:The 200 carb is a popular upgrade to the 220.

I'm curious how so. What does the 200 carb do better on the 220?

33mm vs 35mm. More topend.

G22inSC wrote:

IDRIDR wrote:

s10gto wrote:The 200 carb is a popular upgrade to the 220.

I'm curious how so. What does the 200 carb do better on the 220?

33mm vs 35mm. More topend.

Thanks. After your reply, I did a little googling and found this interesting article: http://www.cyclepedia.com/kawasaki-kdx200/

My goal for my newly acquired 220 is a torquey light weight trail bike. Low-end grunt for steep, rocky, technical trails. Top-end balls-out maximum power will rarely be needed. With this in mind, is my assumption that I don't need the larger 200 carb reasonable?

Sorry for the thread hijack.

I have a hard time believing that a 220 is going to run worth a darn with a 155mj.

So get this,
I have a 97-200 and it didn't dawn on me the other day to simply swap out the carbs and see what happened. But I did today, and Man-O-Man the 220 Really likes the 200 carb. Ran Great!!
The 200 carb is indeed a larger diameter and running a 160 main. But alas my son rides the 200 and so back it went, pfttt... kids.

After working with the 220 carb float tab, I still can't get it to stop overflowing and so have deduced that the spring on the float needle must be weak as the rubber itself looks good. I figure at this point to just rebuild the 220 carb using a 145 Main, new Float Needle, and maybe new Float, so I began looking for parts but WoW, they're pricy.
Would anyone know if there's a 'reasonable' rebuild kit for the 220 carb or if the parts links below seem like they'd work?

Float Needle
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KEIHIN-spec-Spa ... b6&vxp=mtr

Float
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-KEIHIN-FLOA ... c7&vxp=mtr

145 Main Jet
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Main-Air-Jet-13 ... c6&vxp=mtr

Try http://www.jetsrus.com/

Edit: actually, your parts look cheaper.

Did you try the air test? It is possible the fuel is finding its way around the needles seat housing.

Shadowdev wrote:After working with the 220 carb float tab, I still can't get it to stop overflowing and so have deduced that the spring on the float needle must be weak as the rubber itself looks good.

the spring on the needle is really more of a hinge then anything else
it aids zero in sealing the needle

next time you go spend a dime take the top of the reservoir and see what stops the water from overflowing after it refills

that same principle is at work in your carb, the cycle goes as follows

1. carb is empty, gravity pulls float down and needle is down, allowing fuel into the floatbowl
2. you open your fuel tap and fuel starts filling up the float bowl
3. the float floats on top of the fuel pushing the needle into hole, closing it off once the float bowl is full
4. you get on the gas, air is sucked into the engine, and with it, fuel
5. as more fuel gets sucked into the engine the fuel level drops, the float, floating on top of the fuel level also drops and the needle moves away from the fuel inlet, allowing more fuel to pour into the float bowl
6, repeat steps 3-5

the float is what pushes the needle up, not the springy

and, just in case that wasn't clear enough here is a great video that explains it all
(not really, but still a great video)

[youtube][/youtube]