KDXRIDER.NET

I recently acquired a dyna ring that I believe has been the topic of discussion here before. Suffice it to say it is one of the problem children as far as I can tell, one of the ones that just can't be set up right. I have gone through all the steps mentioned in the troubleshooting done in this and other forums, TC balls as many as 18/ heavy springs/ different stack heights via some stock steels, and I think I have tried everything. I could either get no stall with major slippage or no slip and no release, nonsweet spot.

In desperation, (after noticing that the DR to steel vs fiber to steel friction was noticeably more slippery), I installed it with a fiber disc on either side and it is 90% perfect, will sit at idle and lock up with very little throttle. Obviously this is not the ideal way to run it so I was wondering if anyone else with a tough to tame DR has noticed the surfacing being too slick.

Additionally does anyone have experience or know where something like a DR could be recoated/relined? Not sure if this ring is worth the trouble or if I should just go with a EFM, but now I'm curious.

You could try soaking the DR in some solvent to remove whatever oil was used previously. Maybe the PO used an oil with friction modifiers??

With your first couple of sentences, are you saying you bought it from someone who posted on this site the problems they were having with it?

May try that, I had soaked it for a few days if ATF hoping it would change but The lining material just seems to be so polished that it no longer has enough roughness to grab, and there is some chipping around the screw holes. The metal plates that came with it also show signs of being overheated so maybe that caused the material to wear. I have an email in to Revloc to see if they can reline it, if that doesn't work out I have contacted a company in OH named Tribco that says they can reline it for less than a 100.00.

I'm wondering if some rings were just not lined properly, and that may be the issue where they just give up trying to make them work. It is odd to me that some people have awesome results and some nothing but trouble. I have had many auto clutches in the past, original RevLoc, Rekluse, on several makes and never had one that couldn't be dialed in correctly.

If I get this sorted i'll post the result for all those DR's that are sitting on shelves after their owners got frustrated.

Have you made any progress on getting this sorted out?

That is good information about the company that will reline the friction material, I dont think you will get much from Revloc.

When I had my dynaring. I had atf in bike and changed oil and went with their recommended .....synthetic oil cant remember now.

Had same problems either it worked with slipping or didn't work at all really. Easy to install and pain in the rear to dial in that's for sure.

Still couldn't get anything to what I liked or how it should work. I took it all apart and soaked the dynaring and plates in the same recommended oil and after getting it assembled worked somewhat but was working like you had to throttle a little to keep bike running it was kinda draggin the bike down.

Once you get the bike operating like that then you gotta adjust the clutch how they say. From what I found out was very little I mean VERY little goes into the adjustment. Very easy to miss the spot where its suppose to be. I spent 4 hours to figure that out btw. I simply just kept going past where I wanted. In a fit of rage I was talking to the dam thing and said adjust this and just adjusted it to be an ass very little said there adjusted and said Im done..........it worked But it was that little bit and not farther that was the deal. Didn't touch it after that and bike operated like it should. If you bumped it it would go all whack again.

Its a nice little upgrade but I really didn't like it. Gave the kdx a minibike feel. I took the fact that there isn't any made any more and thought about future wear and tear and opted to sell it here and put the money towards an air filter and chain and other things for the bike. Felt it made me lazy and for what I ride and where, it was a bit of overkill. Mine was dam near new from what I could tell. Plates didn't look overheated like yours or what you described.

If your trying with atf I would go with their recommended it worked great with the dynaring and atf didn't work so good. Once you get the new oil I would soak the dynaring and plates in the new oil too. I let mine sit for about a day and the next day mid afternoon put it in bike.

If your going off of their instructions they tell you to adjust it small amounts at a time iirc. You get it to where they say and its a small turn to get where you want. Its not far from where they tell you to start. AT ALL. and even just a smaller amount past your not going to get it to work right. There is a sweet spot for sure.

I installed the dynaring with stock balls springs everything out of package.

So my guess for you is either oil , you have the stack wrong or plates not facing right, did you remember to remove the two rings from your old setup?, is your clutch cable new?(helps).

Kinda sounds like your going in too deep in project. Get back to where it was stock. Use their recommended oil. Make sure you have the stack right....iirc you need those to steel plates by the dynaring and facing a certain way. Make sure you soak it in the right oil too. Follow the install guide and also the setup for clutch. That pretty much gets you to where its gonna either stall out or slip and adjust cable very slightly to where your either not slipping or stalling out. They say in the instructions to go like an 1/8 of a turn and I call bs on that one. Mine worked where I adjusted cable and lever to what they said and I think it was maybe 1/32 of a turn and no more. You also have to work the clutch a couple times in between each settings and that also changes it a lot too for how much you turn.

Sounds like you installed it fine and nothing wrong with dynaring to begin with but you just didn't get it adjusted right. Which in my opinion was what makes the swap hard. That and mine didn't like atf at all. Worked better with regular oil and worked best imo with the recommended oil.

Just seems to me that your tearing a car apart for a spark plug problem so to say.

Also how do you have your last friction in the basket?

ICRage42 - this is just another example of how inconsistent the DR set-up and operation appears to be. I had the opposite experience as you with the oil, I used ATF and didn't have any problems. I also don't remember mine being so sensitive to the gap set-up.

With buying a problematic, used DR you just never know what you are really dealing with. The drive plates being burned certainly indicates that the original owner didn't have something set-up properly or maybe used an oil with friction modifiers. That also supports what sounds like a glazed friction material on the DR.

I'm not sure if the OP is still around, but if you are, I would spend some more time on the cable adjustment as mentioned. But I'd be cautious about spending more money on the DR itself. Since the steel drive plates have suffered from too much heat, the frictions may not have much life left either. You need the thinner drive and friction plates for the DR to work properly and I couldn't locate replacements. I'd hate to see you spend $100 on the DR and then still be stuck with a poorly functioning auto clutch.