Thank you! When putting this cluster of an engine back together this winter, I followed the case splitting thread to a T, including supporting the KIPS shaft when re-tightening. I'm wondering if I didn't orient the pin correctly, or the previous owner messed it up and I just carefully put their mistake back together.Julien D wrote:The right side cover will come off without pulling the motor. Removing the rear brake pedal makes this a little easier. It is possible that the pin which engages the governor has become bent or broken due to someone not supporting the KIPS shaft while removing the left hand threaded nut from the pawl gear. If you have observed through the exhaust and all valves move when turning the pawl gear by hand, then that is quite likely your issue.
Yeah, it's definitely rotating--when I manually turn that cam, the paw gear moves, and vice versa. I can also hear the "glug" of the valves opening and closing in the cylinder. The problem I was having was that the cam was not moving at all when I was revving the bike. I'm pretty sure at this point I did not line the cam up with the paw gear, as I never even took that Flathead cap off when putting the engine back together.iswenson wrote:You see the dot on the cam, right under one of the teeth? That is supposed to line up with a mark on the mating gear. This is the timing of the KIPS. I found that Kawasaki did a very good job with providing marks / indications for all gears such that they can be properly put back together without guessing. BTW I am talking about a KDX220 ('04). Maybe different on an earlier model
Thank you so much for the help. It looks like an engine extraction is in order. I had the whole thing apart this winter and of course neglected to check the KIPS valves.iswenson wrote:You know the problem might be the side valves and main valves, along with the gearing, may just be 'crudded up'. I just cleaned mine this weekend, and prior to cleaning the operation was not very smooth. Post cleaning, the whole system is like butter.
Unfortunately, that would mean taking the KIPS apart...and engine out of the frame. Although, the process can be done in a long afternoon no problem.
Ian
I'm pretty sure I installed it incorrectly when I buttoned the engine back up. It now works, but sticks at both ends, so I think it needs cleaning. The first thing Jeff Fredette told me to check was the KIPS when I told him I was missing bottom end power.bufftester wrote:All of this is good info, except that a loss of low end won't be KIPS related (unless you installed it incorrectly so that the valves are ope when they should be closed. KIPS affects the top end more than anything else, and engages around 6k, so if you're not getting up there you're not engaging the KIPS system. Low end I'd be looking at reeds, carb, air flow, exhaust flow. Leak down test to verify your seals were installed correctly and are working.
) but in retrospect the looked fine. 
