KDXRIDER.NET

Went to change the trans fluid in my KDX 220 and turned the bolt the wrong way and the drain bolt stripped out and wont tighten up tight but I can snug it up any Ideas on how to fix this really bad screw up !! Note to self counter clockwise is tighting and clockwise loose !

Best bet is to drill and tap to the next sie up

Drill and tap is the cheapest ,,, installing a Heli-coil thread insert is the best.

Either way , you need to flush any fine shavings out by pouring thru a couple qts of atf.

Lefty loosy ,, Righty Tighty !

C George wrote:Drill and tap is the cheapest ,,, installing a Heli-coil thread insert is the best.

Either way , you need to flush any fine shavings out by pouring thru a couple qts of atf.

Lefty loosy ,, Righty Tighty !

not sure if I agree on the helicoil statement there
they work great in one and done type applications but in something like a drain bolt that gets put in and pulled out several times a month (during the riding season) that helicoil will work its way out
whats even more concerning, the hole goes all the way through so if and when the helicoil works out there is no guarantee it wont work its way into the engine

at least, that is the way I see it

go for the heli coil method. I did it and no more stripping of the thread. those helicoil are way stronger than the stock thread. lasted me about 10 years now on my 92 KDX200. just need to take extra care if breaking the small little tang off at the end of the coil. I used a needle thread to tie off the tang before inserting the coil in and after i done with the insert, break it off and the little tang is held onto with the thread and it doesnt left behind in the engine case.

There are other thread repair inserts that are not a wire coil with a tang on the end. KEENSERTS is one I'm familiar with. Typically they use a standard tap, so a special tap is not required. These come in stainless steel and have staking prongs that are driven down after installation to lock the insert in place. I would install with blue Loctite 242 to to provide a good seal. Be sure to check sizes to be sure there is enough material in the case's thread boss to use these type thread repair inserts.

pumpguy wrote:There are other thread repair inserts that are not a wire coil with a tang on the end. KEENSERTS is one I'm familiar with. Typically they use a standard tap, so a special tap is not required. These come in stainless steel and have staking prongs that are driven down after installation to lock the insert in place. I would install with blue Loctite 242 to to provide a good seal. Be sure to check sizes to be sure there is enough material in the case's thread boss to use these type thread repair inserts.

I agree this is the way to go. I have use them many times repairing ford sparkplug threads. Once you stake the top it is a done deal.

Heli coil, red loctite. Thread the helicoil onto the drain bolt after breaking off the tab with the red loctite on the outside of helicoil. Thread the insert on the bolt then into the case. Let set overnite, remove drain bolt once and you are done. Last forever, mines been running that for 3 yrs