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Like a lot of people, hills are my weakness. I've never been great at hills unless they are relatively smooth or short. As I'm improving I'm starting to ride in areas that have steeper, longer, and generally rougher (rocky and or rutted) hills. I struggle to get to the top on the first run and find I'm gradually changing down from 3rd to 2nd, and sometimes into 1st as I slowly loose momentum on the longer hills. Once I'm in 1st it's hard to maintain traction.

I have a 2000 model KDX200 and was running 14/47 and the stock pipe/silencer. I really liked this gearing combination on easier trails as I didn't have to shift as often and could easily get up to 80kms/hr in 5th on the smoother open fire trails. I recently changed to 13/47 and noticed a very small improvement, but also noticed a significant loss of top end speed. I was now changing into 6th at 80km's/hr instead of holding 5th.

I've been reading a lot of different opinions on gearing and pipes and am considering trying either a 12/47 or 13/50 to see if that helps produce more torque and less wheel spin on hills. Obviously replacing the CSS would be the cheaper option, as I'd need a new chain if I go to a 49 on the rear.

Considering I'm not overly keen on loosing more top end speed, would I be better off changing to something like an FMF Woods pipe instead of changing my current gearing?

If you're still on the stock pipe, swapping it for any aftermarket pipe is your best bang for the buck upgrade. Pipe, ditch the airbox lid, re-jet, and BAM, you have a new bike. The stock pipe is good for being quiet, but not so much for performance. General consensus is that it's best use is as a boat anchor.

Thanks for the response. I failed to mention that I modified the air box and jetting when I originally bought the bike new. Those two alone made a big difference, hence why I have never considered changing the pipe. I have always been happy with the amount of power. Now I just want more torque.

13-49, 2nd gear , pin it and don't back off for anything!

Julien is spot on. Ditch the factory boat anchor of a pipe. You will be amazed at how much it wakes up your bike.

The gnarlier terrain you ride the more things like technique, suspension, tires (type/condition), etc. comes in to play. Are you working your clutch when climbing hills? Proper clutch technique will help control wheel spin while maintaining momentum. Also, is your suspension setup for your weight, sag correctly set, and tuned for your riding?

To be honest I only used the clutch on hill climbs to either change down a gear or stop the bike from stalling. I don't feather the clutch otherwise. I feather the clutch often downhill depending on how steep the decent is.

I have relatively new Pirelli Scorpion MX Extra tyres and generally run 10-12 psi depending on conditions. I set ride height, sag etc when I bought the bike in 2000. I haven't changed weight so haven't bothered checking sag again. I'm running stock suspension which suits my weight. I recently firmed up the compression and rebound settings to suit as I'm riding faster (followed recommended settings from FRP site).

You say a new pipe will liven the bike up, but I'd really like to know if the Woods pipe would give the desired change I'm after e.g. more torque., and would be better than changing the gearing.

Change the pipe to a woods or a pro circuit platinum. I have the pro circuit and love it, gave me more low and top end power. Also don't change the sprocket to a 12T It will to much of a bend for the chain.

Go ahead and change your pipe like mentioned. Also the gearing your talking about is a huge jump from what you like. If you just want a little more bottom end, then a 13/44 or 13/45 would be just a slight bump up from you 14/47 you like.

spl383 wrote:Change the pipe to a woods or a pro circuit platinum. I have the pro circuit and love it, gave me more low and top end power. Also don't change the sprocket to a 12T It will to much of a bend for the chain.

+1 on the PC pipe

My E-series KDX with 12/48 gearing (also removed airbox lid, jetted, gutted pipe and KX silencer) was a hill climbing machine! Move up on the tank, sit it in 2nd gear and pin it on the really touch rocky hills, VERY hard to stall and no need to feather the clutch.

That being said, obviously it lowered the top speed to about 100km/h (60mph). However I still plan on putting the same gearing on my road registered KDX.

devans wrote:To be honest I only used the clutch on hill climbs to either change down a gear or stop the bike from stalling. I don't feather the clutch otherwise. I feather the clutch often downhill depending on how steep the decent is.

Try using it a bit next time and see how it helps. Just little can go a long way!

devans wrote:I have relatively new Pirelli Scorpion MX Extra tyres and generally run 10-12 psi depending on conditions. I set ride height, sag etc when I bought the bike in 2000. I haven't changed weight so haven't bothered checking sag again. I'm running stock suspension which suits my weight. I recently firmed up the compression and rebound settings to suit as I'm riding faster (followed recommended settings from FRP site).

Wow, no suspension changes since 2000! Fork and shock oil starts going bad fairly quickly. Every two years, at the max, it should be changed and I normally do it every year. Broken down/contaminated fluid will not let your suspension work at its best. Again, this applies more to those who ride their bikes hard, race, and ride the toughest terrain more than a weekend trail rider out with the kids. Also, springs do wear out from use. It might be a good idea to have them checked by a local suspension shop to see if it is time to replace them. Considering how long it has been, if I were you I would opt for at least having the fluid and seals services. I had to replace my factory 4.7 rear shock spring recently. Thought my shock was blown and it turned out to be just a clapped out spring. Had a new Race Tech 4.8 spring installed and everything is good again. Thank God I have a great, and honest, tuner! I highly recommend Donnie at ZR1 Suspension in Tucson, AZ!

devans wrote:You say a new pipe will liven the bike up, but I'd really like to know if the Woods pipe would give the desired change I'm after e.g. more torque., and would be better than changing the gearing.

Yes, go with the pipe over a gearing change. As you have experienced, a gearing change is a noticeable compromise. More low = less top and vice versa. With an aftermarket pipe (FMF woods or PC) you will end up with a broader, more usable power range (ie; more low, mid and top) and lighter weight than the stock pipe. The only compromises are cost and it is easier to damage. However, both are more livable IMO over those associated with the gearing change.

SS109 wrote: Wow, no suspension changes since 2000! Fork and shock oil starts going bad fairly quickly. Every two years, at the max, it should be changed and I normally do it every year. Broken down/contaminated fluid will not let your suspension work at its best. Again, this applies more to those who ride their bikes hard, race, and ride the toughest terrain more than a weekend trail rider out with the kids. Also, springs do wear out from use. It might be a good idea to have them checked by a local suspension shop to see if it is time to replace them. Considering how long it has been, if I were you I would opt for at least having the fluid and seals services. I had to replace my factory 4.7 rear shock spring recently. Thought my shock was blown and it turned out to be just a clapped out spring. Had a new Race Tech 4.8 spring installed and everything is good again. Thank God I have a great, and honest, tuner! I highly recommend Donnie at ZR1 Suspension in Tucson, AZ!

Yes I do need to change the fluid, but the bike sat unused for 8-9 years after my daughter was born. Prior to that I only rode it a handful of times as I was racing vintage mx instead of trail riding. So realistically the bike is in in relatively new condition. I only started riding it again mid last year.

Thanks for the advice.

I went with the change to the gearing as it was cheaper and easier. I bought a new chain and changed to a 49 on the rear. So I'm now running 13/49. I rode a fairly gnarly hilly section last weekend and the gearing made a huge difference. It was also much easier to lift the front and wheelie over puddles.

You should still change that pipe. You won't regret it. I went to 13/49 as you did, and that was cool. The pipe was way cooler :)