KDXRIDER.NET

wanting to remove the kips spring/ball under the slotted cover and see if i like it that way. my question is, do i remove both the spring and ball or just one of them? and if just one, which one? thanks

in case you need to know, its a 2002 model kdx200

i'd remove both. once the ball is out I don't think they'd be any tension on the spring any longer.

thanks. i was thinking the same thing but wanted to make sure. hope to get a test run in this week

Take it easy tightening it up, the head shears real easy.

thanks for the tip gwynfryn

What were your thoughts on removing it and letting the kips move easier ?

let the kips activate earlier in the powerband.

i am hoping to do it tomorrow. i will give a report on the difference with and without. stay tuned lol

Not trying to thread jack.. call me dumb but what is the so called "kips".... and and what exactly does remvoing the ball and spring do?... new to the site. Just trying to learn.

Kawasaki
Integrated
Power-valve
System

Good intro on KIPS operation here. From everything I've read removing the detent ball and spring will allow the valve to open sooner, but it also becomes more unpredictable. For the stock ignition, with stock exhaust and silencer and a clean motor, there is enough tolerance in the system to allow this to work to a degree (earlier hit at lower RPMs). But as you mod to aftermarket pipes/silencer combos you may develop a flat spot around the 6K range (which is where the CDI retards the ignition timing to 21deg IIRC). WIth all that said, I have never played with it, so am interested to hear your report!

One would think that will disable the KIPS action entirely? Can the valve just move freely in this case? If so, I'd try to 'tie' it open. Can't see it being of much benefit unless you're wanting a high-rpm screamer, and then would benefit from porting, head work, custom pipe, and magneto.

well i was going to take it out and see what the difference was BUT it was already gone.lol. so i have no info to give. sorry folks

I took one spacer washer off ours a couple years ago as the manual says higher tension gives a little more
bottom end. Very hard to tell a difference. I'd lean towards the predictability comment myself.

since it didnt have the ball and spring in it i am looking for one to try. i took it on a good ride sunday and it rips good but seems to lack a little bottom end on rough, technical hill climbs. i really had to clutch it a lot. never had to even use the clutch on the ktm 200 i had. that thing would lug like nothing i had ever been on. i am hoping the ball and spring along with a spacer on the left kips cover will help with that. it has a gnarly woods pipe and jetting is really good on it. i also put a 13 tooth sprocket back on the front (po had a 14 on) and it has a 50 on the rear. may move to a 52 rear to help even more with low end.

scheckaet wrote:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke ... lve_system

thanks for posting this. I've always kind of thought I knew how those power valves worked... but now I really know

If you're looking for bottom end the power valve isn't going to really do much (unless it's stuck open) The KIPS doesn't open until around 6K. Of course I'm thinking if you're running 13/50 (and considering 13/52) gearing and a woods pipe and still looking for low end I'd have to advise that even KDX's aren't meant for climbing cliffs

bufftester wrote:If you're looking for bottom end the power valve isn't going to really do much (unless it's stuck open) The KIPS doesn't open until around 6K. Of course I'm thinking if you're running 13/50 (and considering 13/52) gearing and a woods pipe and still looking for low end I'd have to advise that even KDX's aren't meant for climbing cliffs

lol. i dont climb hills that steep. same ones i have climbed on yz250f's, ktm 200, 2 different cr250's and kx250f. never had any trouble with any of those bikes. but i will admit, the rear tire just spins out really bad so i have to back off the throttle. then when i go to get back in it, it just doesnt want to go without clutching a lot. i ordered some different tires, some that have worked really good for me, so that should help too. it has a new rear on it but its a D.O.T kenda trakmaster. it doesn't hook up at all in anything remotely soft. once i start getting some traction and not have to let off the gas so much im sure it will be better.

if your bike is jetted right you should be able to get up those hill.
A few things come to mind if you're having trouble:
-riding too high in the powerband, tried a gear higher?
if you have much wheel spin, maybe you should get a LOWER rear sprocket. (or higher front). you should be able to ride the same hill using the same gear but at a lower rpm and should get less wheel spin.
-suspension setting off, letting your rear tire jump and down too much = wheel spin = loss of momentum. Do you have the correct spring for your weight (front and back)? when was the last nitrogen charged?
-bad tire?

Hope this make sense.