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Here's something I made over the weekend. I'm no machinist ,so I improvised with a jig saw , bench grinder and some filing.
This is going between the read cage and the cylinder. The theory is more low end torque.

Not bad, let us know how it works out !!!

Michael

Installed

Dude, you are just teasing me, you probably won't ride for another 8 weeks to find out how it works out.

Was putting the carb back in a PITA, or not so much ???

Michael

Will be interesting to hear how it works!

More low end torque from further fuel travel?

I can see how the expansion chamber mod would work, but nowhere in the fuel travel to the cylinder are there any variabile effects for combustion

It's more a factor of Intake volume after the reeds close than it is fuel travel.
The carb fit's fine.
The Moose ones that are twice as thick " 10mm" might be a bear to fit.

XX - Plus I noticed when porting the intake that the stock cage depth slightly blocked
the rear cylinder boost port. Moving it back just 5mm / 3/16" helped that issue.

Yes , eight weeks at least , but that gives me time to grease all the wheel and suspension
bearings.

i wanna know if this works also. i could make that..lol. in a car, the longer the intake runner the more torque it makes. didnt know if that applies to a 2 stroke? keep us posted

The moose ones have some very good reviews . Also the V-force 3 reed cage has some good reviews and
it's mounting plate is twice as thick as the stock cage. I feel that many other people smarter than me have
proven that it helps the torque factor.

If you were running a 13,000 rpm 125 shifter cart , you'd want the intake as short as possible.

cool. i was debating the v force 3 and the rad valve. i have heard mixed reviews about performance? i have been reading all the threads i can before i dive in..lol

You really can't go any thicker than 3/16 / 5mm on a KDX as the throttle cable out the top of the carb is barely clearing the frame.

Somthing I just noticed here, on the new reed cage I bought to replace my melted one last year. It has a bigger spacer block compared to my old one...Anyone know why these looks different? It came off an E-series 1992 bike according to the ebay seller..Mine is a 89/90

Image isn't working. Says "you are not authorised to view this image"

Oh I forgot to click submit...I got the link from the thumbnail beforyou click submit. Fixed

Gotanubike wrote:Somthing I just noticed here, on the newisher reed cage I bought to replace my melted one last year. It has a bigger spacer block compared to my old one...Anyone know why these looks different? It came off an E-series 1992 bike according to the ebay seller..Mine is a 89/90

Can't see the image, but.....I have a Boysen cage in my 94 and it is quite a bit thicker than a stock cage.

Somethin went all funky with the gallery images and my album contents made their own page somewhere...

This one work? If not I'll just use photobucket



The cage itself is smaller to compensate for the larger spacer...They are the same height so I guess the thicker spacer wouldn't have an effect.

C George wrote:Here's something I made over the weekend. I'm no machinist ,so I improvised with a jig saw , bench grinder and some filing.
This is going between the read cage and the cylinder. The theory is more low end torque.

I hope to have the bike back together and out of the basement in a few weeks.

Gotanubike, the one on the right may be an FMF brand cage.

Look up FMF Ram or something like that.

That's a nice bonus...

Are the reeds themselves still available? They appear to be a different size from stock

I am not sure on the reeds. Contact fmfracing.com to see