Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

[iregret]

Hey guys. I currently have a 2001 KDX220 with a few mods:

2005 KX125 USD front fork swap.
Suspension custom sprung and revalved.
Carburetor from RB designs
with custom bore and modification.
Head milled by RB designs.
Boyesen reeds.
Tubliss tire system front and rear.
Revloc Dynaring.
FMF gnarly woods pipe.
FMF Q-stealth silencer/spark arrestor.

I'm going to go look at a 2005 KLX300 on Saturday. The KLX was the bike I was looking for when I found my KDX. As far as I can tell, the KLX I'm looking at is bone stock.



The primary reason I'm looking into the KLX is the terrible turning my KDX has with the KX fork swap. I'm a single track trail rider only.

I've read a bit about the two bikes. I'm wondering what all is swappable? Can I swap the 2005 KX fork setup off of my KDX onto the KLX? What about the rear suspension? Is it swappable? I'm 6'4" and weigh 250lbs. I like how the KDX feels. I just hate how it doesn't turn. It's really hindering some of the trails I'm riding on.

It would be awesome if I can swap the suspension over and keep decent steering.

[bufftester]

Hope you're not looking to straight swap your D for an L, if you are I'll go buy a stock KLX and swap with you. Curious about the turning issue, did you not experience it with the stock forks? If not then something isn't right in your front end. Properly set up the KX swap should have little change on your head angle and rake. The KLX is going to nearly identical to a stock KDX, weigh a bit more, and give up a few HP. If you're having trouble turning the KDX, the KLX isn't going to change much. I have a Hybrid (KDX220 motor in a KX125 frame) and it easily outturns my old stock KDX frame, and when the switchies get real tight you have to go trials style and pick up the front end, easier on the DX than the LX IMO.

Since the KLX front end is a direct swap with the KDX, a KX front end set up for a KDX will go right on the KLX. YOu still need to set it up properly as far as ride height (most who have done the KX swap run the fork tubes up more in the triples than the stock fork. A bunch of the bits probably swap over.

[Goofaroo]

The primary reason I'm looking into the KLX is the terrible turning my KDX has with the KX fork swap. I'm a single track trail rider only.

Why don't you just put the stock forks back on the KDX and hit the trail?

[KDXGarage]

Did you internally shorten the KX forks or pull them up in the clamps?

Is it choppered out?

[iregret]

I didn't do the swap myself.

Here are some pics of my bike.





My steering sucks bad. If this is how it is stock, it's pretty pathetic. I'm more of a 4 stroke guy. I just want to know if I can take some of my hot rod parts and swap them over.

I know you guys are going to be kdx defensive, I mean it's kdx rider. Lol

[bcdonyo]

I've set up a couple KLX300's and know a little about them, and ride an '05 KDX200 with a pipe, reeds, Revloc and KX500 front end. As stated above the KLX and KDX handle similar, the D is lighter but the L carries it's weight pretty low, so it doesn't feel as heavy as it is. The L's foot pegs sit low and you gotta watch your toes in the ruts. The stock suspension is horribly soft. The rear linkage is totally different and although the springs interchange, it requires a way heavier one because of the weird linkage. The wheels interchange (but not with KX).

You're going to have to respring and probably revalve the KLX because they are unbalanced and set up for feather weight riders. IMO you will also want to do at least a head pipe/end cap, air box lid removal, Dynojet or JD jet kit, and crank case vent mod to even get it in the same league with your 220. A pumper carb and big bore kit could get it closer still. For more info check out Planet KLX. http://www.planetklx.org/

Head pipe and crank case vent: FSW http://fourstrokeworks.biz/

[iregret]

I don't hate the KDX220 by any measure. I just hate the lack of turning radius. I don't think it's the same as factory. It can't be. I know it hits the tank when it's locked left or right.

I know the frames between the KLX and KDX are similar but I'm hoping I can get some tight steering back.

The one I'm looking at looks stock. I'm researching what all should be changed. Should I just go forward with the pumper carb or rejet the factory carb? I'm thinking carb +header + exhaust +air box lid removal. Then swap my KX125 forks and if possible, rear shock.

Then again, I may get the KLX and decide to just keep my KDX. Maybe I can swap the KLX300's forks and get some turning arduous back?

[bufftester]

Turning radius is strictly a function of head angle, rake, trail, and wheelbase. Between the KLX and the KDX they share the same head angle and wheel base, with the trail on the KLX a hair shorter...translation: steering on the two machines is nearly identical. One of the knocks against the KDX has always been its steep head angle and short turning; great for the woods, but makes it twitchy at high speeds. It's hard to tell from the pics, but it looks as though your fork tubes need to come up some in the clamps. Take a browse through the fork conversion threads and check on proper setup of the KX front end on the KDX frame. If it were me there's two things I'd do. First, check your bike against the stock specs. measure the wheelbase, trail, rake and head angles. It's possible that whoever did the work buggered something up. While you're at it make sure your front end is set up properly as already mentioned. The second is, if possible, ride the KLX and the KDX side by side, i.e.: run a loop on the KDX, then the same loop immediately on the KLX. That will highlight all the differences immediately.
With all the mods you have currently, you'd be hard pressed to find any modern bike in the same displacement range that can keep up, whether its 2T or 4T, as long as everything is setup correctly. Very small changes in your steering geometry can have big impacts to the handling of the bike.

I don't think (at least I hope not) that you'll find us too KDX defensive, although we all do share an unhealthy love for an inanimate object A lot of us ride several different bikes/brands as well. That's one of the things I really like about this forum is the breadth of knowledge and how it's used to just keep folks riding, regardless of the color underneath them. In the surf world we call it stoke, and here at KDXRider we are all about the stoke, why else would you own a bike? Once the infection sets in it won't matter anyway, you'll just keep finding more and more bikes in the garage lol

[bcdonyo]

I don't hate the KDX220 by any measure. I just hate the lack of turning radius. I don't think it's the same as factory. It can't be. I know it hits the tank when it's locked left or right.

I know the frames between the KLX and KDX are similar but I'm hoping I can get some tight steering back.

The one I'm looking at looks stock. I'm researching what all should be changed. Should I just go forward with the pumper carb or rejet the factory carb? I'm thinking carb +header + exhaust +air box lid removal. Then swap my KX125 forks and if possible, rear shock.

Then again, I may get the KLX and decide to just keep my KDX. Maybe I can swap the KLX300's forks and get some turning arduous back?

When I installed the KX500 front end on my KDX, I didn't notice any loss in turning radius. The triples lightly contact the stock tank. Of course I ride "desert" single track, which is tight and technical, but we don't have many trees to contend with. Plus I do have my forks up about 3/4 of an in into the triples. Luckily the 500 triples I got off ebay had aftermarket risers. Have you tried running the forks up, lowering your front end? Here's a crappy phone pick of my bike with the forks up 3/4 inch.


I regards to KLX300 mods, I set one up for my dad back in '97 and now my GF has an '05. The '05 came with a Pro Circuit slip on (& screwed up jetting) which was cool but the stock head pipe on the 300 is pretty restrictive. The FSW header and lid removal are almost as necessary as a pipe on a KDX, but won't get you near the HP gains. I've been happy just using the Dynojet kit on the stock carb, but it is a CV carb and will always have a slight hesitation when you whack it open. It rewards you with great MPG though. If I were setting up the bike for me, I'd do a 351cc kit plus a pumper carb. Her 300 is way slower than my KDX, but she weighs 100lbs. I also put in FSW's shift star and crank case vent. If your a four stroke guy the 300 is super fun but I think you would be disappointed in the power unless you plan on a big bore kit. They also can be hard to start when dropped, but have a higher output stator for decent lights.

[iregret]

I'll read through the conversion threads. Perhaps my bike simply isn't set up properly.

Here are a few more pictures of my bike. I can stop by and take a few specific pictures if you guys would like me too.

Also, if you have any tips on increasing low end torque I'm all ears.

[bufftester]

From that last pic and what I've read about the KX conversion, your forks are sitting down in the triples too far. Most of what I have read is anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4" above the clamp (measured from the top of the clamp to the bottom of the fork cap). You may find this helps out, certainly cheaper to try than buying a new bike, not that I would ever try to talk someone out of a bike purchase

[kdx633]

That front end does not look right to me.Are you sure it's a kawasaki?

[iregret]

I'm 99% sure it's from a 2005 KX125. That's what the seller told me and that's what it says on the rim itself. It's written on it with a sharpie like the entire assembly was purchased from a parts yard.

[cornishwrecker220]

Try & take a pic of the bike from the side preferably with you sat on it just for reference to the fork `rake`...they seem to be dropped through the clamps ok but from 1 of the pics the forks do appear rather long?
The only other thing I would suggest is the tubliss in the front tyre...this would probably make the pressure in the front tyre around 8psi ( 100 in the tubliss ) which depending on what tyre you run could make steering a tad on the heavy side...try & inflate the tire to say 12-15 psi for starters as you are a heavy guy.

[6 Riders]

When moving your forks up in the clamp, you will want to experiment with how high up you move them. The lower the front end (higher the forks) the better turn in you get BUT you can also create high speed instability. So you'll want to find that "sweet spot" where your handling in the tight stuff is good and stability at high speed is good also. It's hit and miss, may even take a while to get "just right" but it's worth it.

[iregret]

I never considered raising the forks in the triple clamp. I can't go sit on the bike currently because the wheels are at the shop getting new tires put on.

It's the triple clamp that hits the gas tank. The other thing I want to add are handle bar risers. I'm pretty tall and it's uncomfortable to stand for any length of time.

I searched but couldn't find anyone that had 2005 KX125 front end swapped and also said where they had the forks bolted down. You guys are saying to lower the triple clamp down until there is 3/4 of an inch above. I'll try that when my tires arrive.

I spend 75% of my time in 2nd gear. No joke. I've had the bike for a year. I've never had it in 5th gear. LOL. I seriously only ride tight woods trails.

I'm going to go pick up the KLX300R tomorrow morning. I'll take lots of pictures. In the summertime I'll sell one of the bikes. If I can't decide I'll hold on to both and sell one next year.

I'm a 4 stroke guy at heart. I grew up on a farm riding 70's trials bikes. I've spent some time on a TT500. This is my first 2 stroke. My buddies got into motocross, I never did.

One thing I'm kind of bummed about is that there's no autoclutch available for the KLX300R. Well, there's not one that isn't $900.

[6 Riders]

The other thing I want to add are handle bar risers. I'm pretty tall and it's uncomfortable to stand for any length of time.
Do you have the cone mounted bars mounts on those trees?
You guys are saying to lower the triple clamp down until there is 3/4 of an inch above.
Yes, but it looks to me that you need the risers in order to accomplish that, or you can just convert to 1 1/8th bars, the universal mounts for those will give you a .75-1" rise alone.
Since you are not a high speed rider, never get out of 2nd gear, the KDX forks with proper springs and good oil should have been plenty good for you. The KX forks really excel at high speeds and jumps. You could if you wanted to, just swap the forks between the L and the D, it's pretty much a straight over swap for you now.

[Goofaroo]

I spend 75% of my time in 2nd gear. No joke. I've had the bike for a year. I've never had it in 5th gear. LOL. I seriously only ride tight woods trails.

You would love this bike if it had the factory fork. Is there any chance that the guy you bought it from has everything you need to put it back to stock?

[iregret]

I bought the bike like 18 months ago.

Okay, upon closer inspection I'm starting to see the problem here.

First off, I think I can benefit from some tall risers. Any recommendations? You can see where he used a spacer so he could clear everything.





Here's a comparison shot of my buddies stock KX250.



You can see here where my clutch cable is getting crushed.



And the other cables as well.



So, I need to buy some tall risers so I can set the forks up a bit higher. I wanted some anyway to raise the bars.

I need to remove my headlight assembly and remount it in a different position on the fork tube. It's currently hitting the frame.

I need to reroute everything out of the way.

After all of that, I should be very close to being able to turn lock to lock.

[cornishwrecker220]

It looks to me that the previous owner has made up some plates to fit under the bar clamps to raise the bars slightly...if there`s room on the bar clamp bolt then you could just remove his plates & make up some thicker ones...failing that then just purchase some risers that install inside where the handlebar mounts inside the clamp, the only problem is do you have enough slack in your cables to raise the bars any higher ??
That top clamp doesn't look like a Kawasaki item to me ?