KDXRIDER.NET

I sit in my garage looking at my kdx220 in defeat. The previous owner lowered the rear 2 inches with a koubalink which just screws the travel. I have the oem links he gave me and planned on switching them out after school today. Got home, bike on stand, and started trying to remove the bolts which hold the linkage together. Failed. Then read that if I undo the top bolt of the shock, it releases the pressure off the linkage and makes it easy to remove the two bolts. After removing the tank, seat, and all plastics, I began to try again. Failed. Any help would be appreciated as I want to ride tommorow morning. I've tried a pipe for extra levarage and almost stripped a bolt (luckily I didn't). Are they reverse threaded, any tips for getting them out?

Thanks

Heat and penetrating oil, and time. Most abused area of these bikes, they never get lubed, cleaned, checked. If you can get hold of an impact wrench that would help.

Air tools are your friend.


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Lean bike on it's side and get the most leverage you can "after" applying penetrating lubricant. I believe it is a 17mm bolt head on 1 side and 14mm bolt head on the other and vice versa for the other side. The bolts are made of steel and our heavy little suckers. I would try the side that has the 17mm first to get more bite and it push comes to shove, you put a small pipe on the ratchet to get more leverage.

I just changed my 112.5 mm dog bones for some 117 mm ones (KLX 300 length), for a total drop in height of 10mm, not to much difference in the suspension either way. It took me about 10 minutes to change them out, again, I did it while the bike was leaning on it's side, not on a stand.

It was like I softened up the rear 2 to 3 clicks on compression and rebound, so for me it was change for the better and no bottoming out issues.

Don't forget to grease the heck out of the roller bearings and bolt while you are in there. If there is corrosion on the bolt and there probably is, take some fine sand paper, or scotch brite to remove as much corrosion as possible without scarring the bolt.

Hope this was of some help.

Michael

Ive had it on its side, I have tried every pipe for leverage and the thing doesn't budge. I've tried both the 14mm and the 17mm side and nothing. The only thing I am missing is the penetrating oil. I've tried lots of wd-40 and chain lube. I don't see a good place to get those lubricants onto the bolt itself.

Thanks

Well sounds like your steel bolts have corroded solid into the roller bearings. Try the penetrating oil (I personally like liquid wrench) to see if frees up the corrosion to the point you turn the bolt, or the nut. If that does not work, sounds like you will have to cut the bolt head off and have to drive the bolt through with a drift and a rubber hammer. If you get the point of cutting the bolt head, then be prepared to replace the roller bearing cages and the seals and of course the bolts and nuts, or hit Ebay for linkage replacement with everything you need. As I recall the Kouba link is anodized aluminum, so that's not the problem, it is definitely the bolt.

Michael

If you can get your hands on some Kroil, try that. That stuff helped me big time when I was rebuilding the wreck of a KDX I had.

Some time ago, an article in Home Shop Machinist magazine described tests on the effectiveness of various penetrating oils. That study showed the most effective was a 50/50 mix of ATF, Type F, and Acetone.

Taking that as a guide, I mixed up a mixture of Liquid Wrench and Acetone. I can't say what the ratio was, but using this concoction, I was able to remove a stubborn pump shaft nut that had defied all the tricks I know, heat, shock, and penetrating oils. After a few hours soaking, a few whacks on the wrench and off came the nut. Only downside was the plastic bottle holding this concoction started to dissolve.

Just something else you might want to try.

Good luck.

I am not sure I believe that acetone/atf is THE BEST available, but I am convinced it works damn well. I keep a batch mixed in an old glass salsa jar with a cut down tooth brush in there to apply it. Much neater than spraying it all over everything.

WD40 isn't a very good penetrant.

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WD40 is not a penetrating oil. Apply the oil around the nut side of the bolt and to the end of the bolt where it comes through the nut, also around the head of the bolt. Let it sit overnight. Now do it again. Then take a heatgun and warm the bolt up good and then wrench it off. Best investment I ever made was an electric impact wrench from harbor freight. It has paid for itself over and over.

bufftester wrote:Best investment I ever made was an electric impact wrench from harbor freight. It has paid for itself over and over.

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