KDXRIDER.NET

I know I've seen this discussion somewhere before, but my seach ended up with way too many threads to deal with in my fragile state of mind.

I know Ron has quick turn around, but I would prefer to not have my bike down right now. However, the big delima is $350 vs. $185.

What is the advantages/disadvantages to the NEW Keihin PWK 35 mm Air Striker Carb compared to OEM? Both with the RB magic of course!

Thanks
Robb

I am assuming that your $350 figure is a shipped price for the modified air stryker. If so, you might be able to sell your OEM carb after getting the new one, helping to defray some of the costs.

Here is some info from the Keihin site. (http://www.keihin.com/)

Quad Vents: Eliminates post jump bog-down from fuel plugged vent passages

PWK Air Strikers: Directs air to main nozzle for improved signal and throttle response.

The Air Striker has a bit more throttle response and is not quite as sensitive to altitude/temperature changes from what i've gathered.

Thanks for the replies. I was hoping someone had some first hand knowledge. Anyone here actually using the PWK AS carb? I don't mind spending money on my machine (just don't tell my wife how much....or tell my kids where thier college funds went). However, I'd like to have a little more field test info. The little blurps from Keihin site don't really give me any insite as to what I would gain (if anything) from an RB modded AS compared to an RB modded OEM PWK.

Ski and CC both have RB'd Airstrikers.

m0rie wrote:Ski and CC both have RB'd Airstrikers.

Thanks Now, how do I get them to come out of that Mythical State and post up?

The Air Striker is well worth the money IMO. It jets easy and pulls from DC to Daylight. I get at least 25mpg with it too. Plus what m0rie said. His post was so accurate that I didn't feel a need to reply. I ride my bike from essentially sea level to 6000+ feet without rejetting. It runs a little rich up high, but doesn't seem to affect performance enough to bother with swapping the main jet out.
The throttle performance is very linear, almost electric like. No suprise hits or flat spots; just twist the throttle and if you aren't going fast enough, then shift the tranny up or down as needed.
How does it compare to a modded carb? I don't know. I only had the stock 220 carb and the airstriker.
Find that cash and just go for it. Otherwise, you will always wonder if you coulda had better.

I've got an RB-modified Air-stryker on a 200 and compared to a totally stock 35mm carb, it has helped smooth some of the hit out the Gnarly Rev pipe and helped low end. I can't tell you how much was the A/S and how much was RB's mods. Right now I only ride sea-level and don't do much jumping so I can't tell you there. I do fall down a lot and the bike does always start afterward. :-) I'd give Ron a call at 503-645-2607 (from his website) if you don't hear anything else.

EDIT: I didn't see Ski's answer...

Best,
Greg

skipro3 wrote:It jets easy and pulls from DC to Daylight. I get at least 25mpg with it too. Plus what m0rie said. His post was so accurate that I didn't feel a need to reply. I ride my bike from essentially sea level to 6000+ feet without rejetting.

Find that cash and just go for it.

Thanks Ski. After reading m0rie's post, I wasn't sure if he was giving a first hand report or infomation that he had "gathered" some other way. That's why I was hoping those who were or had run the A.S. carb would respond. By the way, thanks for the info m0rie.

Finding the cash is not the problem. More of the--least amount of work for the dollar. If RBD took credit/debit cards, I probably would have already ordered the carb. Finding time to get a MO and then the extra time in mailing it had me wondering if the A.S. was worth it or if I should just put my bike down and ship the OEM. Think Ron will take a MO fax...

Looks like I'm going to have to make time to get to the bank on Monday.

Besides, Having a shiny bling-bling carb with TONS of hoses is worth the cost alone! Ha!

Be sure you talk to Ron and let him know what jetting you are currently running. That way he can set your carb up with what will probably be spot-on jetting. He will also toss in a few extra jets just in case. I didn't need 'em. Poop an extra $20 and get the finger operated air screw. You will definately spend time tweaking it for the riding day's conditions. Don't be dissapointed if, when you get your carb and connect it up, it doesn't perform amazingly. It does take a bit of time to find the sweet spot on the air screw. As far as I'm concerned, that is critical to this carb's performance. Here's how to do that:
With the new carb on, warm up the bike by letting it run a bit. Drive it on a nice, flat paved road or a road with great traction. Start with the air screw turned out just enough to let the bike idle. Ride the bike in 2nd gear at a walking pace using no clutch. Wick the throttle to 1/4 open and listen / feel for the response. If there is any bog, hesitation,etc then turn the A/S out 1/16th turn and repeat. Keep doing this until, when you wick that throttle 1/4 turn, the front end lofts easily into the sky. Try a few more adjustments to see how wide this adjustment is before the performance falls back off. My little window of correct adjustment is about 1/4 turn or a bit less.
If you have to go more than 2 1/2 turns out or less than 1 turn out, you have too large or too small of a pilot jet. Ron should provide you with one or two of those as well. I'm running a 35 pilot I think. If the bike boggs no matter what the A/S setting is, the go one clip richer on the needle. When all finished, do a WOT Chop to get the main jet set, reading the plug and repeat the full A/S adjustment once more. Between A/S adjustments, ride the bike a bit to get the A/S's new setting settled in to the carb. I also found that DFIII reed valve works wonders with Ron's carb. His website suggests aftermarket reeds at a minimum. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.

One last thing; I recommend you send your cylinder head into Ron for his work on reshaping it. It really compliments the 220 using the carb. That's an extra $40. The A/S is an extra $20.

Thanks Ski. The head goes next tear down. I've heard the carb mod is worthless without the $20 A/S. That was factored into the $345 new carb or $185 Mod to the OEM.

Just starting to get to be riding season down here!

You can get an MO from the grocery store on the corner...no need to go to a bank.

I've ridden both: A modified 35mm OEM PWK and a modified 35mm air striker. The latter is a hand or two up on the former; for the features noted, also a better throttle response and tractibility (I'm to lazy to look that up to see if I spelt it rite. Beside's, Id have to move my hat to get to my dictionery!).


As Jason said, selling the OEM carb would be somewhat of an offset. If it's not a matter of $$, you will like the air striker better than the OEM carb you could'a had..and the same day swap part is sure worth something.


I hear a mythical calling....gotta go!

I appriciate the response CC!

The swap out thing is most appealing. Hate to have my machine down very long unless it's neccesary.

quailchaser wrote:The swap out thing is most appealing. Hate to have my machine down very long unless it's neccesary.

Ha ha ha. Well, after cooresponding with Ron, I decided to pull the head. Head and MO went out today! Next, will be the post mod ride report!!!!

Well aren't we spontaneous!

Indawoods wrote:Well aren't we spontaneous!

What! It's been almost a week since my first post on this thread.

I had already made up my mind about the carb mod...just not which way to go...new A.S. carb or mod oem. I knew I wasn't going to be able to ride this weekend. After emailing Ron and discussing the head mod...I figured what's another $75 (head mod, shipping, gaskets, radiator fluid). It's only money...what's that compared to some sanity?

Later
Robb

P.S. I just hope I can get it back together before Jason gets one of his three bikes back together.

Did you go with the modded OEM or buying the Air Stryker? If I am reading it correctly, you went with the Air Stryker purchase, correct?

Hey! I resemble that remark! I actually finished stripping the KDX250 all the way down to the frame less than one hour ago.

Good luck on your carb and cylinder head!

I decided to go with the Air Striker. With Ski's, m0rie's, gwhII's and CC's responses, it seemed like the best choice. Plus the cost of these mods is still way under my back up plan ('05 kx250). My better half was much more responsive to the RB stuff than she was to the new bike thing.

Ah, the old tear down. Glad to hear your making progress! We have one of those "projects" in the shop (1997 kx250). It's pretty funny to see an entire bike in a little box...well, except for the frame and rims. I keep telling my boss..."sell me the front end and ebay the rest, I'll pay you the $250.00 you paid for the bike." No dice so far, but I think I'm wearing him down. Good luck on the projects and get one of those things up soon!!!

HONEY, I AM BUYING A NEW BIKE AND NOTHING CAN STOP ME FROM SPENDING THE $6,000! Hey wait, here's a carb mod for $350.

Yes dear husband, let's look at that!!



Good luck on wearing him down.

Thanks for wishing me luck. The '94 should be in good shape in a few weeks. At the very least, surely there will be more on it than the steering stem races and the "This 1994 motorcycle meets..." sticker.

LOL Hey Robb just hide a few of the importants bits like, ummmm, head, dog bones etc and I'm sure he'll let ya by the forks once he can't put it all back together.